LargeScale88

Hello. I'm finally starting to use robart hinge points, but am not sure what the best glue would be. What glue to you guys use?

1. Titebond or Elmers Pro Woodglue
2. 5 or 30 minute epoxy
3. CA Glue (Thick viscosity)
4. Any others you can think of

I figured wood glue would do the job just fine. Its not like I'm gonna be pulling as hard as I can on the control surfaces just for the hell of it...

Thanks Everyone!

Jason

SeamusG

Jason - you finally asked one that I can answer: Gorilla Glue!!!!!!

LargeScale88

Thanks Jim!

One thing I was wondering, Gorilla glue expands 3 times, and you have to damp both surfaces before applying it. Is this what you do when you put your hinge points in?

Thanks!

Jason

SeamusG

There are a bunch of specific "how-to" threads on using GG with Robarts. Check Here

Truth be told (at least in my experiences), it does not expand 3 times - maybe 25 - 30 % - if that. Then, it depends on how much H2O ya drip into the hole. I used a dampened q-tip to moisten the hole. I also laid blue tape down around the hole so that any unwanted spooge came out would hit the tape - not the covering.

Whatever technique you use waste a couple of hinge points with some scrap wood. Like epoxy and Dubro nylon pinned hinges, Vasoline on the hinge pin keeps the glue from getting in and messing up the joint.

dbacque

My Feedback: (3)

This question comes up regularly. In my opinion, the best answer is the one from the manufacturer. These hinges were originally designed for use with epoxy. The surface texture and shape were selected for bonding with epoxy. I definitely would not recommend using CA or Titebond.

Gorilla Glue arrived on the scene later and has been used successfully with hinge points but I would worry that the glue expansion would increase the chance of getting glue in the hinge knuckle.

I use Robart Hinge Points on everything I build and for my time and money I use nothing but epoxy. As SeamusG pointed out, work vaseline into the knuckle of the hinge to prevent getting glue into it. Knock on wood, I have never had a hinge failure using this system.

Dave

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

I use GG on planes with plastic covering. I still have a touch of Pacers Hinge Glue on hand that I just used on a plane that was painted. I tried the GG but had a small problem. The way I do it is I soak the hing center in oil. What seamus said may be better? I squirt the GG into the holes, I glue in the control surfaces first and let them set up. I then wipe oil on the covering around the hinge area. I use no moisture at all with the GG. When it is set up the GG expands onto the covering but the oil allows you to peel it off. Then I glue in the control surface to the wing or stab the same way. Because GG expands it is great stuff if the holes are wobbled out from test fitting. The Pacer was the best glue I had used for pins but it is no longer made and wood glue is not the same stuff. I have used epoxy but GG really grips the hinge better. The oil on the painted surface worked pretty well but I didn't use enough and the GG spread past the oil and I peeled the paint off a bit removing the GG.

KitBuilder

I have used 5 min epoxy. When I was retiring the plane... it was next to impossible to get the hinge out... even then chunks of wood stuck to it.

skull1971

Robart sells "Hinge glue" made just for the hinge points,,, it's real close to Gorilla Glue. I've used this set up on all my race planes, they have held just fine in a Q500 428.

RCVFR

My Feedback: (7)

I use 12 or 15 min epoxy, as I am too slow to get by with 5 min. Having the hinge "almost" in position when the epoxy sets up is not good.

LesUyeda

"Truth be told (at least in my experiences), it does not expand 3 times - maybe 25 - 30 % - if that. "

I think that it is a continuously variable function depending on the moisture content of the wood, temperature, etc.

Les

Steve Percifield

My Feedback: (14)

For what it's worth. The last time I used GG, it expanded into my wing and created large bulges under the covering at each hinge location. My hinge holes were drilled through the trailing edge and I was using the large hinge points. And, it seemd this time that the stuff expanded way more than 3 times. I'm back to epoxy.

SeamusG

GG has it's issues for sure. Just remembered my biggest beef with it - STORAGE. I invert my little bottle and even built a little rack for it. I just tried to squeeze out some. Had to drill out the hole and even then the glue doesn't flow.

Maybe I don't have the right answer!

sensei

I have been using GG to install Robart's for years now, it works great and I have not experienced a single hinge failure to date.

Bob

SeamusG

How the heck do you store it so that you can use it "for years"?

Thought I'd add some pics to help with the "how much does it expand?" question.

pic 1 - a little dab 'ill do ya ...
pic 2 - unlimited water supply
pic 3 - it's, it's, it's the blob ...

Flyin Beagle

My Feedback: (1)

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_1378983/tm.htm

I did some testing on this a couple of years ago and posted the results in the thread above at the bottom of page 3. It is a Sticky on the Tips and Techniques page.

What I found was that Tite Bond III and Gorrila Glue were both stronger than the hinge when used properly. What I also found was that making sure you have thoroughly coated the barbed end of the hinge in glue is the most important part. You have to make sure that the hole is completly covered in glue prior to inserting the hinge. In the experiment I originally did not take enough care when putting the titebond in the hole and therfore did not get a good bond between the hinge and the wood. When I did my first pull test the hinge in the titebond pulled out, but it took quite a bit of force. I re-did the experiment making sure that I had enough glue in hole and the Tite Bond held stronger than the hinge. I have built several planes since I did this experiment, and have used Tite Bond III on all of them with no problems. With the Tite Bond I do not have as much of a mess to deal with as I did using Gorill Glue.

LargeScale88

I just recently did some testing for the different glues.

Glues: 

1. Sig Weld: I poured some sig weld into the hinge hole, and coated the hinge. Let is dry for awhile. It came out, but still took great force.

2. Elmers wood glue: Same result as Sig Weld

3. RC 56 canopy glue: Held much better than numbers 1 and 2! Took pliers to get the darn hinge out!

4. 5 Minute Loctite Epoxy: I still haven't got the hinge out yet.....

I think its epoxy or gorilla glue for me, just to be safe.

Except.....

What happens when the hinge is worn and needs to be replaced??

Jason

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

I used GG on my last three projects. It is so much easier than epoxy, I for one will never use anything else.

David

sensei

Cut the hinges with a razor saw, then you get yourself a piece of 3/16" ID tubing and sharpen one end, place the dull end in a drill motor, then position the sharp end over the hinge and slice your way through and remove the hinge. Next take 1/4"x1/4" balsa and cut into 1.5" strips, place them in a bowl of water for about 15 minutes. Now you place a little GG in the holes and shove those wet sticks in place. Allow to dry overnight, long block sand and your ready to go again. It's that simple, I have done it many times.

Bob

RCVFR

My Feedback: (7)

What happens when the hinge is worn and needs to be replaced??

Jason
[/quote]

I have never had one wear out, but I did have a plane that after 10 years, I dissassembled for recovering. I cut the old hinges and reinstalled new hinges.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

Then it's time to throw away the plane. I have had some very old planes with a bunch of air time and never worn one out. I have had the flat type break over time but never a pin. I wouldn't give it a lot of thought.

sensei

I have also never worn one out, but I have had to recover two and three year old airplanes with upwards of 3000 flights and it was time to go through the airframe. So there is only one way I know of to remove the hinges and I already stated what that was. I never just throw away my giant scale airplanes.

Bob

daveopam

My Feedback: (9)

Robart does make inserts for their hings points. The insert is glued into the fuse and the hinge point is held in with a set screw. With this system the hinges can be switched at any time and the insert will still be in the plane. I don't think you will ever wear a set out, but if it's a concern this can be done.

david

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

1 word.


HYSOL

SeamusG

hey pitchpole - what kind of solvent cuts your "one word"?

bob_nj

My Feedback: (62)

Skull1971 > Do you have a link to the glue you said Robart sells?
I can't find it.


Daveopam > I see unassembled hinges on the Robart site.
Which item are you referring to ?


[link=http://www.robart.com/store/control-hinges]Robart Site[/link]






Thanks
Bob