I can't get this new engine to start for anything
03-06-2012, 02:43 PM
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I can't get this new engine to start for anything
This may quite possibly be a really noobish question.
So I have been working on restoring an airplane someone gave me for the past month or two. I have just about everything working except the engine. It had an OS .45 engine on it. I made sure the glow plug worked, the glow starter worked and was the right kind, the fuel tank could hold pressure properly and that it was fully oiled and everything I could possibly find on the internet.
I couldn't get that thing to start for the life of me. I got it to run twice for just a second but that's it.
After a week of messing with it, I bought an ASP .61 engine. Here is the exact place I got it from.
http://www.hobbypartz.com/72p-s61aii.html
I made sure it was properly oiled, bought a new glow plug just to be safe (even though the one I already had lit up the way it needed to), read what little of an instruction manual it came with and followed what it said and tried everything I know about to get it to work.
I tried turning the propellor clockwise, turning it counter-clockwise and even tried an electric starter. One time when I tried starting it by turning it counter clockwise, it ran - for about 2 piston cycles. With the electric starter it spun the prop around a little but the most it did was melt the end of my nose cone a little and make a weird smell.
I'm not experienced at this at all but in all the videos i've ever seen, they simply start their engines with a LOT less effort than it takes me to make mine do anything. I've got to be missing something and it's going to be a huge noob moment when someone points out the one thing I missed lol.
Any ideas?
So I have been working on restoring an airplane someone gave me for the past month or two. I have just about everything working except the engine. It had an OS .45 engine on it. I made sure the glow plug worked, the glow starter worked and was the right kind, the fuel tank could hold pressure properly and that it was fully oiled and everything I could possibly find on the internet.
I couldn't get that thing to start for the life of me. I got it to run twice for just a second but that's it.
After a week of messing with it, I bought an ASP .61 engine. Here is the exact place I got it from.
http://www.hobbypartz.com/72p-s61aii.html
I made sure it was properly oiled, bought a new glow plug just to be safe (even though the one I already had lit up the way it needed to), read what little of an instruction manual it came with and followed what it said and tried everything I know about to get it to work.
I tried turning the propellor clockwise, turning it counter-clockwise and even tried an electric starter. One time when I tried starting it by turning it counter clockwise, it ran - for about 2 piston cycles. With the electric starter it spun the prop around a little but the most it did was melt the end of my nose cone a little and make a weird smell.
I'm not experienced at this at all but in all the videos i've ever seen, they simply start their engines with a LOT less effort than it takes me to make mine do anything. I've got to be missing something and it's going to be a huge noob moment when someone points out the one thing I missed lol.
Any ideas?
03-06-2012, 03:51 PM
#2
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RE: I can't get this new engine to start for anything
Make sure the needle valve is openusually about 3 turns from fully closed. Also force some fuel through the fuel lines to make sure the carb is not plugged. You should see the fuel running down the carb throat.
PS-a couple very experienced guys at my field fiddled for over an hour last week trying to start an engine only to find that the needle valve was only open 1/4 turn.
PS-a couple very experienced guys at my field fiddled for over an hour last week trying to start an engine only to find that the needle valve was only open 1/4 turn.
03-06-2012, 04:24 PM
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RE: I can't get this new engine to start for anything
In addition to opening the needle valves enough, you have to prime the engine before starting it. That entails blocking either the carb or exhaust (doesn't matter) and flipping the prop a couple of times. Keep doing it until you see fuel coming through the line and into the carb inlet, then a couple more times after that to get some fuel actually into the engine. For a brand new engine, you'll do better on the first start to just take off the muffler line and blow into it to prime the engine so you don't mess up the interference fit of the piston and cylinder. A properly primed engine will always start within a turn or two once it's broken in.
Your electric starter troubles come from getting stuck in the compression. Turn your prop the wrong way (clockwise when looking from the front) until you feel resistance, then use the electric starter. That gives it a running start to get through the compression and keep going.
Your electric starter troubles come from getting stuck in the compression. Turn your prop the wrong way (clockwise when looking from the front) until you feel resistance, then use the electric starter. That gives it a running start to get through the compression and keep going.
03-06-2012, 05:21 PM
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RE: I can't get this new engine to start for anything
OK I tried opening the needle valve to 3 turns instead of 2. Then 4. Still nothing. The manual said 1 and a half. After spending all day messing with it a couple days ago on 1 1/2, I decided that's not going to work.
It wants to start and I can smell cumbusted fuel (although this isn't anything new). I can see fuel by looking into the carb when I spin the prop. Sometimes a little fuel will come flying out of the carb when I try to start it. I don't know it they usually just do that or if it means something.
It wants to start and I can smell cumbusted fuel (although this isn't anything new). I can see fuel by looking into the carb when I spin the prop. Sometimes a little fuel will come flying out of the carb when I try to start it. I don't know it they usually just do that or if it means something.
03-06-2012, 06:12 PM
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RE: I can't get this new engine to start for anything
do you have the throttle at least 1/8 to 1/4 open. you need more air and a higher idle when starting a rich engine. I have had to open the
the throttle up to half open to get a new engine to start.
the throttle up to half open to get a new engine to start.
03-06-2012, 06:16 PM
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RE: I can't get this new engine to start for anything
check your spraybar to make sure the hole is straight down. remove the needle valves out and blow on the pressure line to make sure there is no crud stuck behind them, then put a piece of fuel line over the needle valve stub, remove fuel supply line and blow on the piece of line to the needle valve stub. reassemble and set needle valves to factory suggested settings. make sure your fuel is clean. no dust. barring any inturnal dammage, the engine shuld start with in a few flips.
03-07-2012, 12:19 AM
#7
RE: I can't get this new engine to start for anything
Sounds like you need to contact the local club and get someone who's engines start every time with just a flick of the wrist to come over and go through the thing with you. There is nothing like a bit of 'one on one' with someone who really knows what it's about to turn you from exasperated to an expert in an afternoon. The 'Internet' won't do it, but if you've a mind to it, someone can teach you quickly enough.
Evan, WB #12.
Evan, WB #12.
03-07-2012, 06:38 AM
#8
RE: I can't get this new engine to start for anything
ORIGINAL: Veraster
I can see fuel by looking into the carb when I spin the prop. Sometimes a little fuel will come flying out of the carb when I try to start it.
I can see fuel by looking into the carb when I spin the prop. Sometimes a little fuel will come flying out of the carb when I try to start it.
Try this:
Close the needle valve completely, open the carb about 1/4 and spin the prop (counter clockwise looking from the front) with an electric starter for about 30 seconds. If there is fuel in the engine, it will pop and maybe run for a few seconds. If nothing happens, add some fuel to the carb and repeat. This time, it SHOULD run for a few seconds and then die (because the needle valve is still closed).
Now, open the NV one turn, add a few drops of fuel to the carb and try again. It should run a little longer or possibly even keep running. If it dies, open the needle another HALF turn and repeat.
Keep repeating with an additional half turn of the needle until it runs.
03-07-2012, 06:50 AM
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RE: I can't get this new engine to start for anything
Hi,
The following is infoirmation I put together after reading many posts with many suggestions on setting up an engine, I hope it helps.
Fly4Fun,
Wayne
ENGINE ADJUSTMENT
This procedure is for carbs that have a low and high speed needle valves – not an old style air-bleed carb.
Check if your glow plug is OK by removing and attaching the battery to the glow plug – it should glow a bright orange/yellow colour. Check that you don't have old fuel. Check that your fuel delivery system is OK and fuel can get to the carb. Also check for no engine air leaks (at backplate and carb mount) then you may want to try the following initial set up.
First, try resetting your needle valves to an initial start position. Set high speed needle so it is 2 1/2 turns out from fully closed. Open carb to full throttle and use a clean piece of fuel tubing attached to the carb intake nipple and blow gently into it with your mouth - listen for air going into the carb (a hiss) - if you don't hear air, back out the high speed needle valve a little and try again - keep doing this until you hear air. This ensures your high end needle will allow fuel (in this case air) to flow into the carb. If it doesn't, than try another turn out or find out what is the obstruction.
Once you've verified the high end needle valve is working properly and allows air to be blown into the carb at full throttle, you need to set the low speed valve. To start, set high end needle setting at 5-6 turns out and close throttle arm to about 1/4 throttle setting. Turn low end needle valve so it is completely seated (meaning closed by turning it clockwise, do this gently and don't force anything). Now with the carb opened at 1/4 throttle setting, blow air into the fuel tubing and SLOWLY rotate the low end needle valve counterclockwise (to richen the low end mixture). Stop richening the low end needle valve when you first "feel", or more accurately, hear (a hiss) air leaking into the carb.
Now, return to high end needle valve and close it completely and open it about 2 1/2 turns from closed. Recheck to make sure this 2 1/2 turn setting allows air to flow into carb when you blow air into the fuel intake nipple. Then double check the low end needle setting to see if you can blow air into it with carb at 1/4 throttle setting.
If all checks out, then attached fuel tank line to engine, prime engine manually (a few drops of fuel in the carb opening), return to slightly less than 1/4 throttle, attached glow driver and flip the prop, or start with starter. Most engines start better at 1/4 throttle than full throttle.
For the next step, remember turning the needle valve counter clockwise (out) makes the setting richer, turning the needle valve clock wise (in) makes the setting leaner.
As soon as the engine fires up, don't touch anything and let it run. Leave glow driver on and let engine warm up for about 30 seconds. Now with glow driver still on, slowly advance throttle setting. You should be able to get it to full throttle. Remember, the low end needle valve adjusts the carb below 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. If it dies from going from 1/4 to 1/2 throttle and above (with glow attached) it probably means you are too lean on the low end needle valve. Just open it (low end needle valve) up a little bit, not too much, about an 1/8 of a turn or even less. Repeat the process as necessary until engine can advance above 1/2 throttle without dying. Once it can run at 1/2 and above, remove glow driver and go to full throttle.
At full throttle, lean out high end needle valve to max lean rpm and then richen the high end needle mixture by 400 rpm (when richening, you will note the RPM will drop slowly). When set right and you briefly pinch, and release, the fuel line at full throttle, the engine speeds up a little and then returns to its setting for proper adjustment. The pinch test verifies if you are too rich or too lean. If you are too lean, when you pinch and release the fuel tubing the engine will die or not speed up at all. If you pinch and release and engine speeds up a lot, you are too rich, etc..etc..
The right setting is when your engine speeds up a little, about 300-400 rpm when doing the pinch test (a tach would help with getting your ears tuned in this area)
Have fun and if you use this systematic method to tune your needles, you will get a good "feel" for how to set carbs quickly and easily. Remember, high end needle normally works at 1/2 throttle and above and low end needle affects the idle and transition to full throttle. Also, if you readjust the low end needle valve, you must recheck and readjust high end. The two needles can interact with each other. If you forget which direction to turn the needle, just use a clean piece of fuel tubing attached to the carb and blow into it to determine if your adjustment reduced the flow or increased the flow for whatever needle you were adjusting.
Things to look for:
If the engine is labouring and running hot, or setting the high speed needle is difficult or above half throttle no more extra rpm, then the propeller is too large
If the acceleration is lightning quick, engine screams, and has only a little thrust, then the propeller is too small
With the right prop, the engine will tune easily and will increase rpm up to about 3/4 throttle (after 3/4 has little effect), it will have decent acceleration and good thrust.
Its really simple once you get the hang of it.
The following is infoirmation I put together after reading many posts with many suggestions on setting up an engine, I hope it helps.
Fly4Fun,
Wayne
ENGINE ADJUSTMENT
This procedure is for carbs that have a low and high speed needle valves – not an old style air-bleed carb.
Check if your glow plug is OK by removing and attaching the battery to the glow plug – it should glow a bright orange/yellow colour. Check that you don't have old fuel. Check that your fuel delivery system is OK and fuel can get to the carb. Also check for no engine air leaks (at backplate and carb mount) then you may want to try the following initial set up.
First, try resetting your needle valves to an initial start position. Set high speed needle so it is 2 1/2 turns out from fully closed. Open carb to full throttle and use a clean piece of fuel tubing attached to the carb intake nipple and blow gently into it with your mouth - listen for air going into the carb (a hiss) - if you don't hear air, back out the high speed needle valve a little and try again - keep doing this until you hear air. This ensures your high end needle will allow fuel (in this case air) to flow into the carb. If it doesn't, than try another turn out or find out what is the obstruction.
Once you've verified the high end needle valve is working properly and allows air to be blown into the carb at full throttle, you need to set the low speed valve. To start, set high end needle setting at 5-6 turns out and close throttle arm to about 1/4 throttle setting. Turn low end needle valve so it is completely seated (meaning closed by turning it clockwise, do this gently and don't force anything). Now with the carb opened at 1/4 throttle setting, blow air into the fuel tubing and SLOWLY rotate the low end needle valve counterclockwise (to richen the low end mixture). Stop richening the low end needle valve when you first "feel", or more accurately, hear (a hiss) air leaking into the carb.
Now, return to high end needle valve and close it completely and open it about 2 1/2 turns from closed. Recheck to make sure this 2 1/2 turn setting allows air to flow into carb when you blow air into the fuel intake nipple. Then double check the low end needle setting to see if you can blow air into it with carb at 1/4 throttle setting.
If all checks out, then attached fuel tank line to engine, prime engine manually (a few drops of fuel in the carb opening), return to slightly less than 1/4 throttle, attached glow driver and flip the prop, or start with starter. Most engines start better at 1/4 throttle than full throttle.
For the next step, remember turning the needle valve counter clockwise (out) makes the setting richer, turning the needle valve clock wise (in) makes the setting leaner.
As soon as the engine fires up, don't touch anything and let it run. Leave glow driver on and let engine warm up for about 30 seconds. Now with glow driver still on, slowly advance throttle setting. You should be able to get it to full throttle. Remember, the low end needle valve adjusts the carb below 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. If it dies from going from 1/4 to 1/2 throttle and above (with glow attached) it probably means you are too lean on the low end needle valve. Just open it (low end needle valve) up a little bit, not too much, about an 1/8 of a turn or even less. Repeat the process as necessary until engine can advance above 1/2 throttle without dying. Once it can run at 1/2 and above, remove glow driver and go to full throttle.
At full throttle, lean out high end needle valve to max lean rpm and then richen the high end needle mixture by 400 rpm (when richening, you will note the RPM will drop slowly). When set right and you briefly pinch, and release, the fuel line at full throttle, the engine speeds up a little and then returns to its setting for proper adjustment. The pinch test verifies if you are too rich or too lean. If you are too lean, when you pinch and release the fuel tubing the engine will die or not speed up at all. If you pinch and release and engine speeds up a lot, you are too rich, etc..etc..
The right setting is when your engine speeds up a little, about 300-400 rpm when doing the pinch test (a tach would help with getting your ears tuned in this area)
Have fun and if you use this systematic method to tune your needles, you will get a good "feel" for how to set carbs quickly and easily. Remember, high end needle normally works at 1/2 throttle and above and low end needle affects the idle and transition to full throttle. Also, if you readjust the low end needle valve, you must recheck and readjust high end. The two needles can interact with each other. If you forget which direction to turn the needle, just use a clean piece of fuel tubing attached to the carb and blow into it to determine if your adjustment reduced the flow or increased the flow for whatever needle you were adjusting.
Things to look for:
If the engine is labouring and running hot, or setting the high speed needle is difficult or above half throttle no more extra rpm, then the propeller is too large
If the acceleration is lightning quick, engine screams, and has only a little thrust, then the propeller is too small
With the right prop, the engine will tune easily and will increase rpm up to about 3/4 throttle (after 3/4 has little effect), it will have decent acceleration and good thrust.
Its really simple once you get the hang of it.
03-07-2012, 05:57 PM
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RE: I can't get this new engine to start for anything
im using 15% nitro fue. This is where I got it:
http://www.amazon.com/Torco-Fuel-Nit...1171383&sr=1-1
I have made absolute certain that there is nothing blocking the lines as of now. I tried putting a small squirt of fuel and it's still doing the same thing. In fact I haven't really got it to do anything other than jump a little when I try to start it for the past week or however long i've been trying to get it to start.
I didn't try much of Wayne Miller's advice mainly because I don't have much free time today. Tomorrow I will do all that and follow it as closely as possible and tell you if I had any luck.
http://www.amazon.com/Torco-Fuel-Nit...1171383&sr=1-1
I have made absolute certain that there is nothing blocking the lines as of now. I tried putting a small squirt of fuel and it's still doing the same thing. In fact I haven't really got it to do anything other than jump a little when I try to start it for the past week or however long i've been trying to get it to start.
I didn't try much of Wayne Miller's advice mainly because I don't have much free time today. Tomorrow I will do all that and follow it as closely as possible and tell you if I had any luck.
03-07-2012, 06:44 PM
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RE: I can't get this new engine to start for anything
I can't stand it any longer, I just gotta jump in here.
All the advice that you've been given is good BUT -
if you put a little squirt of good fuel into the carb and the glow plug is glowing yellow or even white (not red). and your hitting it with an electric starter long enough it's just got to fire up even if only briefly.
If it's not then you must not have any compression or the plugs is not hot enough or the fuel is junk. Forget about all the high end, low end needle adjustments until you can at least get it to pop.
Oh and by the way $35.00 for a gallon of 15% fuel is highway robbery. I'm using 35% fuel in my racers and the cost is less than that.
All the advice that you've been given is good BUT -
if you put a little squirt of good fuel into the carb and the glow plug is glowing yellow or even white (not red). and your hitting it with an electric starter long enough it's just got to fire up even if only briefly.
If it's not then you must not have any compression or the plugs is not hot enough or the fuel is junk. Forget about all the high end, low end needle adjustments until you can at least get it to pop.
Oh and by the way $35.00 for a gallon of 15% fuel is highway robbery. I'm using 35% fuel in my racers and the cost is less than that.
03-08-2012, 05:39 AM
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RE: I can't get this new engine to start for anything
one quick question. Are you sure you have the proper lines hooked up? can you drain and fill the tank from the line that goes to to carburator. The reason I ask is that it sounds like you are running off a prime and not pulling out of the tank.
03-08-2012, 06:46 AM
#15
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RE: I can't get this new engine to start for anything
If there is fuel in the engine and there is glow plug heat the engine will start. We know you have fuel, so the other possible culprit is glow heat. Have you verified that your glow plug is glowing when you attach your glow driver? Are you using new plugs?
03-08-2012, 07:10 AM
#16
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RE: I can't get this new engine to start for anything
"Two engines, same problem sure sounds like bad fuel to me. Try a different brand of fuel"
Worked at a local hobby shop after my retirement, and one of the fuel manufacturers DID market a whole lot of bad fuel It was recalled, and I used what I had left as weed killer.
Les
Worked at a local hobby shop after my retirement, and one of the fuel manufacturers DID market a whole lot of bad fuel It was recalled, and I used what I had left as weed killer.
Les
03-08-2012, 07:20 AM
#17
Senior Member
RE: I can't get this new engine to start for anything
Just because a glow plug glows does not mean it is okay. It usually will be but, a glow plug (if not a new one) can have accumulated a coating on the platinum glow element that prevents the catalytic action required between the alcohol and the platinum to continue the combustion process. It is also important to have the proper voltage on the glow plug to initiate combustion, to little and it wont start, to high a voltage and you burn out the glow plug. You need 1.2 to 1.5 volts on the plug and a discharged NiCad or NiMh battery, while reading properly at no load may be sagging down under load to to low a value; just make sure your glow plug battery is fully charged when trying to start a new engine.
03-08-2012, 02:40 PM
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RE: I can't get this new engine to start for anything
one quick question. Are you sure you have the proper lines hooked up? can you drain and fill the tank from the line that goes to to carburator. The reason I ask is that it sounds like you are running off a prime and not pulling out of the tank.
If it's not then you must not have any compression or the plugs is not hot enough or the fuel is junk. Forget about all the high end, low end needle adjustments until you can at least get it to pop.
Oh and by the way $35.00 for a gallon of 15% fuel is highway robbery. I'm using 35% fuel in my racers and the cost is less than that.
Oh and by the way $35.00 for a gallon of 15% fuel is highway robbery. I'm using 35% fuel in my racers and the cost is less than that.
03-08-2012, 02:50 PM
#19
RE: I can't get this new engine to start for anything
Find a hobby shop and buy some 10% fuel. Does not matter what kind. You can mail order it from Tower Hobbies. But UPS charges $20 per gallon for HazMat. You should pay $16-$20 per gallon from a hobby shop. Take your plane with you. Most shop owners want to help you and make you a loyal customer.
david
david
03-08-2012, 03:24 PM
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RE: I can't get this new engine to start for anything
There is a hobby shop 35 miles away from where I live. From Google street view it hardly looks like a store and is out in the middle of absolutly nowhere. It supposedly carries the dx7i but I don't believe that (I saw that on Spektrum's wedsite). But who knows I might go there and see if they have fuel or even exist.
A few minutes ago I tried to start my engine. It jumped several times in the opposite direction that I was trying to get it to spin with the chicken stick (im glad I wasn't dumb enough to use my finger). I don't know what was up with that. Also a few times it jumped and got stuck right when the compression chamber was at it's most compressed point. I have soaked the engine in oil trying to get rid of that one hard spot but it seems to be supposed to be like that. When I turn the prop with the glow plug out, however, it still has that hard spot. The hard spot is when the piston arm is strait up.
A few minutes ago I tried to start my engine. It jumped several times in the opposite direction that I was trying to get it to spin with the chicken stick (im glad I wasn't dumb enough to use my finger). I don't know what was up with that. Also a few times it jumped and got stuck right when the compression chamber was at it's most compressed point. I have soaked the engine in oil trying to get rid of that one hard spot but it seems to be supposed to be like that. When I turn the prop with the glow plug out, however, it still has that hard spot. The hard spot is when the piston arm is strait up.
03-08-2012, 06:00 PM
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RE: I can't get this new engine to start for anything
You have a RC club right in your town. To save yourself a lot of frustration and heartache, you should bring your stuff to the club field, meet some new people and ask for help. People are always willing to help. They have a decent website too. http://paducahaeromodelers.com/
Good Luck
Good Luck
03-08-2012, 06:32 PM
#22
RE: I can't get this new engine to start for anything
ORIGINAL: Veraster
This may quite possibly be a really noobish question.
So I have been working on restoring an airplane someone gave me for the past month or two. I have just about everything working except the engine. It had an OS .45 engine on it. I made sure the glow plug worked, the glow starter worked and was the right kind, the fuel tank could hold pressure properly and that it was fully oiled and everything I could possibly find on the internet.
I couldn't get that thing to start for the life of me. I got it to run twice for just a second but that's it.
After a week of messing with it, I bought an ASP .61 engine. Here is the exact place I got it from.
http://www.hobbypartz.com/72p-s61aii.html
I made sure it was properly oiled, bought a new glow plug just to be safe (even though the one I already had lit up the way it needed to), read what little of an instruction manual it came with and followed what it said and tried everything I know about to get it to work.
I tried turning the propellor clockwise, turning it counter-clockwise and even tried an electric starter. One time when I tried starting it by turning it counter clockwise, it ran - for about 2 piston cycles. With the electric starter it spun the prop around a little but the most it did was melt the end of my nose cone a little and make a weird smell.
I'm not experienced at this at all but in all the videos i've ever seen, they simply start their engines with a LOT less effort than it takes me to make mine do anything. I've got to be missing something and it's going to be a huge noob moment when someone points out the one thing I missed lol.
Any ideas?
This may quite possibly be a really noobish question.
So I have been working on restoring an airplane someone gave me for the past month or two. I have just about everything working except the engine. It had an OS .45 engine on it. I made sure the glow plug worked, the glow starter worked and was the right kind, the fuel tank could hold pressure properly and that it was fully oiled and everything I could possibly find on the internet.
I couldn't get that thing to start for the life of me. I got it to run twice for just a second but that's it.
After a week of messing with it, I bought an ASP .61 engine. Here is the exact place I got it from.
http://www.hobbypartz.com/72p-s61aii.html
I made sure it was properly oiled, bought a new glow plug just to be safe (even though the one I already had lit up the way it needed to), read what little of an instruction manual it came with and followed what it said and tried everything I know about to get it to work.
I tried turning the propellor clockwise, turning it counter-clockwise and even tried an electric starter. One time when I tried starting it by turning it counter clockwise, it ran - for about 2 piston cycles. With the electric starter it spun the prop around a little but the most it did was melt the end of my nose cone a little and make a weird smell.
I'm not experienced at this at all but in all the videos i've ever seen, they simply start their engines with a LOT less effort than it takes me to make mine do anything. I've got to be missing something and it's going to be a huge noob moment when someone points out the one thing I missed lol.
Any ideas?
03-08-2012, 07:17 PM
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RE: I can't get this new engine to start for anything
Hi,
I agree with post number 21 above.
It is obvious that you are very new to RC and need assistance - "Pinching" at the top of the cylinder for a new 2 cycle engine is normal, that is, until the engine is worn in - this will take a few tanks of fuel. A new engine may be difficult to start at first with a "chicken stick". Caution: if you do get the engine started and end up running it too lean, you could damage your engine.
I think you should go to the local field that the link pointed to in post 21, or at least make contact with the local club. Modellers are very friendly and are always willing to help a new person get started in the hobby. I'm sure they will be able to find your problem very quickly and will probably start your motor it with an electric starter. Once your motor is set up, and broken in, you should have no problem starting it on your own.
I do have a concern that you may get the engine working, and then you may try and fly without assistance from an experienced modeler - this would be inviting a crash, and would be very costly to you.
You may also may want to look at investing in a flight simulator for your PC - you can crash on your PC many times while learning with the added bonus of not having to pay for crashes.
Please keep us up to date with your progress.
Fly4Fun,
Wayne
I agree with post number 21 above.
It is obvious that you are very new to RC and need assistance - "Pinching" at the top of the cylinder for a new 2 cycle engine is normal, that is, until the engine is worn in - this will take a few tanks of fuel. A new engine may be difficult to start at first with a "chicken stick". Caution: if you do get the engine started and end up running it too lean, you could damage your engine.
I think you should go to the local field that the link pointed to in post 21, or at least make contact with the local club. Modellers are very friendly and are always willing to help a new person get started in the hobby. I'm sure they will be able to find your problem very quickly and will probably start your motor it with an electric starter. Once your motor is set up, and broken in, you should have no problem starting it on your own.
I do have a concern that you may get the engine working, and then you may try and fly without assistance from an experienced modeler - this would be inviting a crash, and would be very costly to you.
You may also may want to look at investing in a flight simulator for your PC - you can crash on your PC many times while learning with the added bonus of not having to pay for crashes.
Please keep us up to date with your progress.
Fly4Fun,
Wayne
03-09-2012, 07:10 AM
#24
Banned
RE: I can't get this new engine to start for anything
"The hard spot is when the piston arm is strait up. "
That is typical, and normal for an ABC, engine. When the engine starts to run, and things get up to operating temperature, all is good. The heat is greater at the upper end of the cylinder, having more mass, and less cooling there.
Les
That is typical, and normal for an ABC, engine. When the engine starts to run, and things get up to operating temperature, all is good. The heat is greater at the upper end of the cylinder, having more mass, and less cooling there.
Les
03-09-2012, 02:47 PM
#25
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RE: I can't get this new engine to start for anything
You may also may want to look at investing in a flight simulator for your PC - you can crash on your PC many times while learning with the added bonus of not having to pay for crashes.
It does sound like a good idea to join a club though and I will look into that.