Drill or Not to Drill?
#5
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RE: Drill or Not to Drill?
I find that the prop reamer in my field box gets use whenever I change props. I purchased the SAE and metric reamers from Tower and they work great.
Cheers,
Cheers,
#7
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RE: Drill or Not to Drill?
OS is SAE (standard). Just measure the OD of the threaded part part of your prop shaft. It is most likely 5/16 or 1/4 inch. Then use the prop reamer until you reach that diameter.
#8
RE: Drill or Not to Drill?
Yes.
For 8mm I got fancy and bought a stepped "pilot"drill bit that I use ina drill press. Bennett Built has them down to 5/16" wit ha 1/4" pilot.
For 8mm I got fancy and bought a stepped "pilot"drill bit that I use ina drill press. Bennett Built has them down to 5/16" wit ha 1/4" pilot.
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RE: Drill or Not to Drill?
Yes, and you want to get it as close to the size of the threads as you can get it without having to thread it on.
KW_Counter
#11
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RE: Drill or Not to Drill?
ORIGINAL: KW_Counter
Why don't I want to screw it on?
Why don't I want to screw it on?
One additional reason to assure you do not screw a propellor on is if you do there will be a greater tendency spit the propellor nut, washer, propellor and prop drive bushing completely off the airplane when conditions are right. This occurs most often when starting and an over lean condition may exist with a hot engine. It also more rarely can occur in flight.
This seems counter intuitive and I am no engineer so will make no attempt to explain why but only suggest to never screw a prop on.
John
#13
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RE: Drill or Not to Drill?
ORIGINAL: KW_Counter
Why don't I want to screw it on?
KW_Counter
Yes, and you want to get it as close to the size of the threads as you can get it without having to thread it on.
KW_Counter
I would also guess that screwing it on, and creating threads inside the prop, might prevent the prop from completely seating against the thrust washer - meaning your prop might be on crooked.
Kurt
#14
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RE: Drill or Not to Drill?
A 7/16 prop shaft!! That's huge. Although my largest engine is a 2.20 glo so I may just not be up on some of the gasser stuff.
OK, so maybe not so huge.....I just checked my SAE reamer and it goes to 1/2"in random 16th and 32nd step increases startins at 3/16. Must be due to standard shaft size increments. I think it was from Tower, though I picked it up at the LHS.
OK, so maybe not so huge.....I just checked my SAE reamer and it goes to 1/2"in random 16th and 32nd step increases startins at 3/16. Must be due to standard shaft size increments. I think it was from Tower, though I picked it up at the LHS.
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RE: Drill or Not to Drill?
I used to use the drill, however I discovered that often the hole is off centered. That's because of the flukes in the drill will often grab the material unevenly especially if you are using a hand drill. I had better results with the drill press, however would often have the same problem, especially with plastic or APC propellors. The reamer is the best way to go in my opinion. I have had good results from the step reamers available. I have both the SAE and METRIC step reamers. Look here: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...opeller+reamer
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RE: Drill or Not to Drill?
Keep in mind the prop hole on a new prop is usually 1/4"
and the shaft is 1/4 x 28. The difference is minimal.
Screwing the un-reamed prop on a 5/16" shaft would be a definite no no, if not impossible.
John,
Your explanation makes some sense.
I do occasionally take the prop nut off when starting.
Never considered that threading the prop on was the cause.
Bozarth,
My engines, OSs, the shaft is not threaded the full length, the bottom is smooth.
In addition, the metal shaft and prop nut will easily overcome the plastic threads.
gaRCfield,
Just unscrew it. I've never had a real problem taking the prop off.
Thanks all,
KW_Counter
and the shaft is 1/4 x 28. The difference is minimal.
Screwing the un-reamed prop on a 5/16" shaft would be a definite no no, if not impossible.
John,
Your explanation makes some sense.
I do occasionally take the prop nut off when starting.
Never considered that threading the prop on was the cause.
Bozarth,
My engines, OSs, the shaft is not threaded the full length, the bottom is smooth.
In addition, the metal shaft and prop nut will easily overcome the plastic threads.
gaRCfield,
Just unscrew it. I've never had a real problem taking the prop off.
Thanks all,
KW_Counter
#18
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RE: Drill or Not to Drill?
ORIGINAL: KW_Counter
Bozarth,
My engines, OSs, the shaft is not threaded the full length, the bottom is smooth.
In addition, the metal shaft and prop nut will easily overcome the plastic threads.
Thanks all,
KW_Counter
Bozarth,
My engines, OSs, the shaft is not threaded the full length, the bottom is smooth.
In addition, the metal shaft and prop nut will easily overcome the plastic threads.
Thanks all,
KW_Counter
Kurt
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RE: Drill or Not to Drill?
Buy a tapered reamer and quit wasting your time with SAE and Metric step reamers.
Get a tapered reamer and you always have the right size.
If you read APC Props recommendations you will see that they recommend a tapered reamer.
Get a tapered reamer and you always have the right size.
If you read APC Props recommendations you will see that they recommend a tapered reamer.
#20
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RE: Drill or Not to Drill?
A tapered reamer may be convenient, but I have concerns about how to keep the reamer plumb to the face the prop without the step following the smaller hole. Also, my prop shafts are not tapered, I don't like that only a very small amount of the prop will acually be the right size when finished.
#23
RE: Drill or Not to Drill?
Found one here: http://www.jrhobbyhardware.com/shop/...ex&cPath=16_36
$6.00 plus $3.00 shipping.
Frank
$6.00 plus $3.00 shipping.
Frank
#24
RE: Drill or Not to Drill?
I bought mine at Harbor freight. If you work it from one side and then the other the hole will be fairly consistant and once you balance it you can adjust for the hole being slightly off by weighting or shaving the hub