sensei

I know, we have all seen this topic before, but I see many of the same topics repeated over and over, so let see if we can get some useful feedback on this subject.

Bob

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

I use Mono, Ultra, and auto paint depending on the model and how much time I want to spend on it.
I also have had good experience using both mono and ultra on the same model.

Just my experience though.

bullseye000

I've used most of the brands of covering at one time or another over the years I've enjoyed the hobby. For larger sized planes I always used Monokote. Maybe it was because it was what I started with probably because that's the covering most people used. In the last few years there has been a change made to the product and at least in my own opinion problems with quality control and consistency in the product. I've bought three rolls of the material and had no problems applying covering to the bottom of say a fuse. Covering the top of the fuse with the next roll of the same color becomes a fight to apply, with the material just absolutely refusing to shrink no matter what I do.

I used Ultracote on my most recent model and it went on almost flawlessly. My only issue is that some of the techniques and procedures I used for covering with Monokote just don't work with Ultracote. I just ordered three more rolls of Ultra for an upcoming project and will experiment a little more with product. Unfortunately there doesn't seem to be as much sharing of technique with Ultracote as there is with Monokote.

scale only 4 me

My Feedback: (158)

I use both, and agree with the change in Mono is a problem sometimes, a plane I did recently, it went on fine but became brittle, which was strange.

With Ultra you just have to get used to the lower heat range that it applies at,, Mono uses much higher heat, than Ultra.

Like anything it just takes time and practice to get used to it. If I was going out to buy it,, I'd buy Ultra

hookedonrc

I started by using Ultra Cote and have never changed. I have read most of the problems that monokote has of late. However, I do one thing that seems to really help... Maintain the correct temperature. When I am covering, I have the iron and sock and a IR temperature sensor http://www.amazon.com/Temperature-In.../dp/B002YE3FS4 For around 20-25 bucks you can't go wrong. I continually check my temps and apply the coating on the lowest temperature possible ...same with when I shrink it.

jester_s1

I've stopped using a sock for application, but I still put one on when I need to get it stuck down on sheeting since the soft surface pressed it into the wood surface better and prevents scratching. Without the sock, you get much finer temperature control since the amount of time you hold the iron on the material doesn't affect how hot it gets anymore. Hooked is right though, knowing the minimum temperature that the covering will apply and then where the covering will shrink is the key to good covering jobs. The vast majority of botched jobs come from applying the covering at a shrinking temperature or using up all the available shrinkage on the initial tightening by going too hot.

sensei

I have found with Monokote different colors seem to go on better with different temperatures. Have any of you noticed this at all?

Bob

bullseye000

Yes I have seen a difference in the application characteristics between different colors. As hooked mentioned above I bought a thermometer to accurately set the heat on my irons. I have 2 irons one lower for applying the film and one set to a higher temp for shrinking. I bought the second one at a swap meet so it didn't break the bank. I also prefer using a sock on my iron but that's a preference. Some colors of Monokote seem to take way too much heat to shrink I think that may make it brittle.

For you guys using Ultracote my next project has a color break that will fall over open bays on a wing. Done this many times with Mono but never with Ultracote. Anyone have any advice or gotchas to look out for?

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

My problems with mono was never getting it to stick but getting it to shrink. This was all after they changed it. I went over to Ultra and use it for all of the main covering but still like mono for the trim work. I like using the ammonia to get it down then just go over the outer seam with a trim iron. I just can't trust mono from color to color for the base.

countilaw

Ihave found that you need to buy as much monokote as you need, because if you go back and get more, the colors may not match. Ihave also noticed that it now takes a higher temperture to shrink it.

Ihave just used my first roll of ultra cote and haven't made up my mind as to whether Ilike it or not. It definitely shrinks at a lower temp.

Frank

airbusdrvr

"TO COVER OR NOT WITH MONOKOTE, THAT IS THE QUESTION!"
NOT

sensei

I agree, the formula has changed again in the past couple of years, I say that because I noticed the first change many years ago. Anyway it does require more heat for application now, color matching is a problem so I only buy 25' rolls and even then I have experienced issues in the color along with missing color within the rolls, and the material must be stretched much tighter during the tacking process if you wish to get all the wrinkles out when the shrinking begins. I have always use a sock on my iron because without it I get dents and that is just unacceptable for me. Yet I still use Monokote in conjunction with other painted surfaces on the airframe because when put on tight, you can make it look like a just like a painted surface without the weight of an all painted airframe.

Bob

sensei

OK, tell us why.

Bob

JollyPopper

My Feedback: (6)

bullseye, is there any reason you can't cut the two different color pieces you intend to put on the wing then, with them lying in the same positions on a flat surface that they will be on the wing, join them with a 18" seam. Now you have one solid piece that can be applied over open bays in the normal manner.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

I have a sheet of some kind of counter top? Not sure what it is but before I moved I had a 4X8 glass door and just took the two pieces and ironed them together, the counter top works just as well. Other times I would glue in cap strips where it was going to join and ironed the pieces to that. I did it this way with both mono and Ultra. Other then the mystery shrinkage problem the two coverings go on the same way. Mono also seems to sag and bubble in the hot sun. After I cover a new plane I set it in the sun then shrink the covering again. I do this until it no longer sags then I put on the trim. Once Ultra has been cured this way it isn't bothered by the sun and heat any longer. This works well for the TEX type of coverings too.

Airplanes400

My Feedback: (349)

TO COVER OR NOT WITH MONOKOTE, THAT IS THE QUESTION!

William Shakespeare is tossing in his grave over this abomination of his famous quote!

oliveDrab

Just don't even consider Monokote. Get Ultracote and follow the directions for setting the correct temperature. Adhere it to the surfaces at 220 degrees F. After you're done applying it at 220 degrees F, crank the iron up to 300 and shrink it. It can be tightened still more by increasing the iron temperature to somewhere between 300 and 350. After that it will no longer shrink.

If you need a flat finish, spray the Ultracote with Krylon flat clear. I can get away with that because I have only large electric planes - don't have to worry about fuel proofing. I have no idea what glow fuel or gas would do to Krylon flat clear (turn it to goop?)

Ultracote can also be sprayed with rattle-can colors, like the flat black Normandy invasion stripes in the attached photo.

hairy46

My Feedback: (1)

Ultracote is what I use! Monokote just dont work anymore!

ssautter

I prefer paint and have had good luck with the Krylon "Short Cuts" model paint.
Rattle-cans: http://www.krylon.com/products/short...erosol-paints/
Airbrush: http://www.krylon.com/products/short...ush-on-paints/
It is not fuel proof, but relatively inexpensive, from a local department store.

I also useTopFlite "LustreKote". It stinks, something awful, so I won't spray it w/o a respirator.
But, LustreKote is great for fuel proofing, without mixing an epoxy-type paint. Easy clean-up, too.
http://www.monokote.com/lustrekote/lustrekote.html

Painting is impractical for open structures, so iron-on film isok for lift-surfaces, and it's cost-effective.

sensei

Nice looking covering job!

Bob

sensei

Actually it does still work but it takes allot more patients and work to get it down the way I like it to look and perform these days.

Bob

blvdbuzzard

I have used mono, ultra, china, tower, hobby, and others. Each one has to be worked in a different way. Mono has changes a couple times over the years. They say that each color works the same. This is not true, White is way different than trans red. Dark blue does not work the same as yellow.

I have found that using Balsarite for film helps a lot with any of the iron on coverings. Plus it fuel proofs any bare or open wood.

I have been using a lot of the cheap China coat. It is about half way between Mono and econo coats. It stretches well around corners, yet, once stuck, if you try to pull it up, you will loose the color layer. It is stronger than econo, but just a touch less than mono.

I did like the old Black Baron films. They went around corners very well. Yet they were soft and would sag in the heat of the sun and you could poke holes in it pretty easily.

I bought this lite weight stuff from Dymond models. Man that stuff is great. Goes on low temp, shrink like crazy, is pretty tough too. To bad I have no idea what it was. They cut it off a roll on the wall. Now, if I knew what that was I would suggest that stuff. Some of the best covering I have ever used. Best I can come up with it was European or English

You can always use the dress silk and then prime and paint. It is super tough, strong, cheap and if you use Sig stik it, you can even iron it on.


Buzz.



If I could only spell

JPMacG

My Feedback: (2)

I have good results with both Monokote and Ultracoat. They have different qualities. I don't like the rubbery texture of Ultracoat, but it will conform to complex shapes better than Monokote. Monokote seems to sag less than Ultracoat. Monokote takes more effort and skill but I think the result is better than Ultracoat.

bullseye000

That's what I normally do for Monokote. I learned from Charlie Bauers videos years ago to join the two sections on a piece of glass. I wasn't sure it would work with Ultracote because of the glue activating at a lower temperature. I thought the Ultracote would separate faster when heated before it would shrink up. I bought extra to experiment with so I'll give it a try.

mr.snaproll

My Feedback: (38)

I have built and covered so many planes over the years that I never really noticed the change in Monokote, but sometime in the past 5 years I changed my covering method so I don't have the problems that others have. I prefer Monokote because I has a glosser look than Ultra and I can find paints to match without to much trouble. In my opinion you just need to find a method that works. This is my latest Monokote job, a Top Flite Giant P-47.