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Stab/wing alignment?

Old 08-13-2013, 02:19 PM
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bob8619
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Default Stab/wing alignment?




Does this mean distance from wing tip to stabilizer tip should be same on both sides?? If so, is ANY difference in distance acceptable or does it need to be spot on?
Thanks.
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:12 PM
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Top_Gunn
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That's part of what it means. The other part is that the stabilizer and the wing should be parallel. How far off you can be without seriously messing up flying qualities depends on what kind of plane it is. I have a Kadet Senior, built by someone else, with a stabilizer that is tilted so much that one end is at least an inch higher than the other, maybe two inches, and it doesn't seem to affect the flying qualities at all. On a high-performance plane you'd want to be a lot closer. I faintly recall some trainer's instruction manual suggesting that the wing tip to stabilizer distance should be equal to within 1/8 of an inch. That's for a 40-siye plane. Seems reasonable.I think on most 40 size trainers and sport planes you could be off a quarter of an inch on that dimension and never notice it.
Old 08-13-2013, 03:17 PM
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DavidAgar
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I am thinking that it means that if the stab is 5 inches from the side of the fuse, then measure the wing 5 inches from the fuse. I think you would want to get the wing and fuse sitting on a table and get those measurements on both sides so they are the same, then install the stab and make sure the stab tips are the same from the table top. If it was my plane, I would want the measurements to be as close as possible, but would not worry about a minor difference. Good Luck, Dave
Old 08-13-2013, 03:30 PM
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Bob, i think the drawing is basically saying to look at the plane from a slight distance ( rear or front) & check that the stab tips appear to be the same HEIGHT above the wing & not drooping off to one side or another. To answer your other question, if it is drooping off to one side or another, the plane will still fly, but the closer to being perfect & 90 degrees to thev rudder the better. I hope that makes sense to you...Gene
Old 08-13-2013, 04:00 PM
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Level the wing saddle (which goes a long way to a proper wing alignment) and then level the horiz stab being sure both tips are same distance from your "levelled" bench when measured at the same point on each tip. To square your wing and stab... measure a mid point from left to right on the fuse at the farthest point from wing (genearlly the tail post. Adjust until tips are equal meausrements to that point. Do same for horiz stab (generally measure to the nose) Of course both alignments up and down.. and fore and aft need to be re-checked when attaching. Rudder is last aligning to the cured horiz stab. Thats how I do it.

Last edited by KitBuilder; 08-13-2013 at 04:04 PM.
Old 08-13-2013, 07:59 PM
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That means that one should not be crooked respect to the other; otherwise one or both will introduce a lateral force during flight.

Last edited by Lnewqban; 08-13-2013 at 08:05 PM.
Old 08-18-2013, 08:35 PM
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Bob,

Is this the instruction manual from your new Hanger 9 P47D Razorback? Are you going to have a build thread? If so I want to subscribe to that thread should be fun!
Old 08-18-2013, 10:13 PM
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Eyesight is by far the best tool for this job. It is amazing what you can see by stepping a few feet back from the plane and taking a look. Measuring can be tough, things move around, maybe you measure a seam but the seam is not identical on both sides, maybe the table is not flat, etc.

If the tail is not square to the wings you will get some funny stuff going on in loops, plane might corkscrew through a loop, or yaw and roll when you pull to vertical.

A tolerance is not specified. Get as close as you can. This is an important part of the build. It is difficult to repair if done wrong and really can have an impact on how the plane flies. If you just like to sport fly around maybe you don't care, but if you are paying close attention when you fly you'll find yourself constantly trimming rudder and aileron to compensate.

When I do this stuff in the right environment I'm usually within 1/32". 1/64" is pretty ideal. 1/16" is probably borderline, that would bother me. But I'm like that.
Old 08-19-2013, 05:25 AM
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bob8619
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Originally Posted by WI53072 View Post
Bob,

Is this the instruction manual from your new Hanger 9 P47D Razorback? Are you going to have a build thread? If so I want to subscribe to that thread should be fun!

I had planned on doing a build log but I got carried away and got a lot of work done already.
Old 08-19-2013, 12:39 PM
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Bob,

Post some pictures!! Are you going with the DLE 20 on this one? One of the guys I fly with is going DLE 20 on the same plane you are getting ready to fly!! It should be interesting fall at our field with that plane buzzing around. It ought to be scary fast and sound cool when the prop tips go supersonic!! That is an awesome sound!

Keep us up to date on your build Bob!

Paul
Old 08-19-2013, 01:29 PM
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bob8619
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Originally Posted by WI53072 View Post
Bob,

Post some pictures!! Are you going with the DLE 20 on this one? One of the guys I fly with is going DLE 20 on the same plane you are getting ready to fly!! It should be interesting fall at our field with that plane buzzing around. It ought to be scary fast and sound cool when the prop tips go supersonic!! That is an awesome sound!

Keep us up to date on your build Bob!

Paul

No I am going with the Saito FA125 for now. Maybe down the road I'll spring for an FG21 and try my hand at gassers. I'll get some pics up, the thread I started for this build is over in the warbirds section of the forum, thats where I'll post them.

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