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oil mix for gas engine

Old 08-17-2014, 04:27 AM
  #51  
tpasztor
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Try this link.
http://www.shop.redaerorc.com/Vitube-High-Performance-Fuel-Tubing-VT-1000.htm
Old 08-17-2014, 06:21 AM
  #52  
LesUyeda
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"Not gonna happen, some people are just to stuck in their view to see elsewise be it fact or fiction."

Sounds just like my wife:-))))))))))))))

Les
Old 08-17-2014, 09:17 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by Gray Beard View Post
Try this, http://pure-gas.org It shows your local gas stations that have alcohol free gas. REBEL gas here in my local was said to be alcohol free regular so I bought a gallon and tested it, turned out to be 5%. Close enough to pure compared to most the stations in this area. I still have my old tester from when I worked in small engine repair, easy to make your own too or for next to nothing you can buy a tester.
Where can I buy or how do i make a ethanol tester ?

Bought 5 gallon of ethanol free gas today from a station that was listed on the website. I asked the teen-age girl at the counter first to make sure it was ethanol free and she assured me it was. Just want to test for sure.

Thanks !!!
Old 08-17-2014, 11:52 AM
  #54  
OldScaleGuy
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Originally Posted by tpasztor View Post
For the last 2 years I have been going to the airport and purchasing the 100 Octane Low Lead (100LL) and running Amsoil Dominator racing 2 stroke oil at 50:1 With zero problems and the added benefit this gas wont attack your Tygon fuel tubing. This gas has no alcohol with added fuel stabilizers that will keep the carburetor clean. Great mix for storing your lawn equipment for the winter.
Since we are on oil and gas mix. I have been putting Viton tubing inside the gas tank with great success. Below is the link for the tubing.

http://www.shop.redaerorc.com/Vitube...ng-VT-1000.htm


.
A fellow rc'er and full size pilot friend of mine says that aviation fuel burns too hot for our model engines. He runs 50% aviation and 50% car gas. Just a little more fuel for the fire....
Old 08-17-2014, 02:40 PM
  #55  
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I have been using Star Tron in my glow engines for the summer and it helps.

I just started with the dle 20 and am using star tron in it as well. It cleans the engine and stops the effect of ethanol on every thing. I found out it cleans the fuel tanks as well as the engines.
thanks for all the advice on the dle 20, it helps

sticks
Old 08-17-2014, 04:53 PM
  #56  
rt3232
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Well guys I will step in hear and muddy the water been flying gassers for over 20 years ( started with a G-38) and I don't like the smell of auto gass and the ethanol, me and my flying buddy switch to 100 ave gas from our local airport when the ethanol became mandatory, and yea it's $ 5.50 a gal but it has vary little smell burns clean (like coloman fuel) on Oil for break in I use any good ashless 2 cycle oil for the first gal on the ground,at the recommended mix, Then it is in what ever plane I got the engine for and fly it for the next gallon then 50 :1 klutz oil all the way. the other thing you can store it as it will not go sower like pump gass and I do add 1oz per gallon of sta-bill or sea-foam to inhibit water.

Cheers Bob T
AMA13377
Old 08-18-2014, 03:26 AM
  #57  
OldScaleGuy
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Star Tron is new to me. How much do you add per gallon?
Old 08-18-2014, 03:24 PM
  #58  
Gray Beard
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Shawn, when I was still in Calif. our local airport had alcohol free gas. I found this out when one of my friends was driving a truck from a refinery in LA, they were the only one still alcohol free with lead and he delivered to my local airport.
Originally Posted by speedracerntrixie View Post
I would be running Ethanol free if I could find it. Being in Cali is a PITA at times. I just revived a DA 150 that had been sitting for 8 years. I have a rebuild kit on order but I tried soaking the soft parts in gas overnite. The engine is running great except it's leaking fuel at idle. I will have to go in and see where the metering needle fork is adjusted and maybe adjust the pop off pressure. I know I should wait for the rebuild kit but I have the last contest of the year coming up and need the practice.
Old 08-18-2014, 04:32 PM
  #59  
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Gene, I had considered that last year and drove over to the world famous Reid Hillview airport. Found out pretty fast that they would no longer pump into a can, they would only pump fuel directly into an aircraft.

Even if they were able to sell it to me I am averaging 2 to 3 gallons per trip to the field with the new gasser. That would have me running across town each trip to the flying field. Not quite as convenient as stopping at the corner gas station. For other guys with airplanes that don't use 1/2 gallon per flight I'm sure that mixing up 5 gallons of av gas would hold them for a couple weeks.

this is going to be one time when I actually stand behind a brand of oil. The Sthil HP Ultra is supposed to have additives that help with the ethanol. So far it seems to work as advertised. I replaced the metering needle in the carb and that cured the leak. After a few needle tweaks the engine is running great. I will have to go back into the carb and adjust the fork height to get the midrange spot on but this engine had sat for 8 years.
Old 08-18-2014, 08:04 PM
  #60  
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I typically do not engage in oil wars, but a few posts ago someone mentioned the oil I use in 2 stroke gasoline engines. I have been using Amsoil Sabre at 70:1 for years and have never had an issue. I just could not bring myself to mix at 100:1, so I split the difference and mixed it at 70:1 and had good results. It probably would be OK at 100:1, but in my mind that is just not enough oil. When in doubt I err on the side of more oil, as my original post in this thread states. There are MANY good oils on the market and I am not knocking any of them. I have used the Stihl HP that Shawn likes and never had a problem with it.

Find something that works for you and stick with it.
Old 08-19-2014, 06:43 AM
  #61  
Gray Beard
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Shawns, {SPEEDS} use of planes and engines are a bit more advanced then most sport pilots, so is his building and engine work. Get us together and we won't agree on everything but his brain is a good one to pick. So, my reply to Speedracer. Pays to know someone with a plane and have a long hose. Most airports are now like that and won't pump into a can, why? That started in one of the oil embargoes years ago. People were filling up there cars and cans at airports instead of waiting in line at gas stations. I had both 55 gallon and 15 gallon cans when I still had a sand rail and would take my car and cans to the airport during the first embargo. It was also the last place I could get leaded gas. My 15 gallon cans were perfect, I could lift them off my trailer when I got home from the dunes. They were alcohol cans I got at the print shop I worked at.
Oil: I had always used Klotz after break in but have started using the Red Line two stroke Synthetic a year or two ago. After pulling apart a couple of the well used engines for some of the guys for inspection I haven't seen any wear at all so I made the switch. Almost no carbon build up either. I have to go to a motor cycle shop across town to get it but the shop is close to a hobby shop anyway. Type and brand is just another choice thing and not worth debating.
Carbs: For my use I don't need to do the things you do but I always get a new carb kit for a new engine and replace the diaphragm with the alcohol resistant type. I had my Brison 2.4 under the bench for several years after a crash and just installed it in a new plane. After choking, that old engine fired on the 4th flip. I must be doing something right with those diaphragms.
I was told that the new carbs come with the new diaphragm for alcohol use but the engines from China I question, I don't know for sure but for the price of a kit why not change them and inspect the crab for burs while apart.
Old 08-19-2014, 11:28 AM
  #62  
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Instead of buying the 100LL ask for the old fuel samples.
Old 08-20-2014, 08:06 AM
  #63  
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Wanted to share this with all of you. I just received some new Redline oil and noticed it is a bit thinner viscosity and has more of a red color versus the previous was more of a brown color. So being the worrier that i am i phoned them, the technician there told me that they have made a change to one of the additives and this new oil is even more superior to the previous material.
Old 08-21-2014, 03:46 PM
  #64  
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We have a couple of stations selling gas free of the stuff. Look around, but you will pay more.

As I stated Star Tron fuel additive , will do away with the problem and clean your engine.

sticks
Old 09-08-2014, 04:17 PM
  #65  
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Tough Thread to post in but here it goes....I've been running 2 strokes all my life and raced 2 stroke dirt bikes for many years...I always ran penzoil petroleum in my race bikes @ 32:1 and never an issue...But they were freshened up every two tanks with a new ring and had very little time to wear between rebuilds. Now flying gasser planes for the last 10 years I've been using Amsoil Saber @ 100:1. The engines (20cc, 38cc,62cc, 80cc and a 116cc) have all been great. They burn clean and I have never had to open one up and have never seized an engine at this 100:1 ratio...Now I gotta admit that that ratio has had me on edge waiting for a failure but it just hasn't happened (To Me). A friend of mine owns a Evolution 33cc Gasser and It specifically states in the directions "Do not use Amsoil Synthetic in any form" ??? Not even at 32:1??? Hmmm Now I'm curious....So we mixed up Redline @ 40:1 for that one engine...That suks! Two fuel cans and different oils now. Any thoughts?
Old 09-08-2014, 06:29 PM
  #66  
tpasztor
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Wow on the Amsoil.
I have been running the Amsoil Dominator 2 Stroke racing oil for about six years @ 50:1 and have yet to crater an engine. For the last 2 years. I have been going to the airport and buying 100 Octane Low Lead gasoline. With even better performance with out the alcohol to screw up the fuel lines.
Old 09-09-2014, 04:53 AM
  #67  
speedracerntrixie
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Obviously you guys seem happy with what you are running. I just have a couple comments. BZY, being that you come from a moto background running 32:1 in the bikes, I assume that you know that less oil does not mean more power. In fact at 100:1 you can see a reduction in film between the ring an cylinder. This may very well be causing a reduction in compression and loss of power.

Tpasztor. , the Av gas that you are running may have its advantages. Less smell and no ethanol. The lead even in small quantities can eventually foul your plugs ( not really a big issue ) but I question the better performance. Our engines are just not set up to get any benefit from the higher octane gas. To get full potential out of your mix you would have to increase compression and advance the timing some. The best HP for these engines in stock form comes from a mix of 87 octane and 40:1 or 50:1 quality air cooled oil.
Old 09-09-2014, 06:52 AM
  #68  
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+1 on that speed. I remember after unboxing my first DA engine, I wanted to make sure that I was running the best oil mix and the correct octane number for their engines. To cut to the chase, the best oil that they recommended right out of the box was Red Line oil mixed at 40:1. If I couldn't get Red Line, they recommended Penzoil (non synthetic) mixed at 32:1.
Old 09-09-2014, 08:35 AM
  #69  
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Vincent, currently I am running a first generation DA 150. Its 13 years old and going strong. I'm pretty sure the previous owner ran it on Redline. I am running Shell 94 octane and Stihl HP ultra at 50:1. I'm not too brand loyal when it comes to oil, my choice for the HP ultra is based on availability and that Stihl will double the warrantee on their equipment if run on their oil exclusively.
Old 09-09-2014, 09:44 AM
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Speed, If your engine has lasted all those years, you have obviously have been doing something right! I think all of this info is good for those that want to see what others are doing. After doing your research, you can be comfortable and confident with the decisions that you will have made for your engine.
Old 09-09-2014, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by speedracerntrixie View Post
Obviously you guys seem happy with what you are running. I just have a couple comments. BZY, being that you come from a moto background running 32:1 in the bikes, I assume that you know that less oil does not mean more power. In fact at 100:1 you can see a reduction in film between the ring an cylinder. This may very well be causing a reduction in compression and loss of power.
Speed...I agree with your post and yes I also agree that less oil does not mean better performance...I guess my thinking was running a great synthetic oil that allowed me to reduce the ratio of oil in my fuel to keep the smoke and oily mess to a minimum without sacrificing any lubricating values. I spoke with Amsoil direct and asked how it was possible to run the 100:1 ratio and not sacrifice the lubrication...Basically the answer was "chemistry" The oil was designed wether it be the viscosity, concentrate etc... to give the small engines the similar/same lubricating value as a petro at say 32:1... I'm a skeptic but in the past few years without going into detail, I have first hand witnessed what 9 oz's of a particular additive lubricant mixed in with 4 and 1/2 gallons of oil in my diesel can do...INCREDIBLE! You would not believe the change in my engine without witnessing it...That was just 9 oz's added!
Horizon got back with me twice now to confirm that the testing proved poor results at 100:1 ratio Amsoil...I wont argue that, Their the manufacture and I'm nobody to claim different. The Evo engines must be set up with tighter tolerences??? I just found it strange that Evolution singled out what I considered to be a fantastic oil and state not to use it. I want to run the same oil/gas in all my gassers so I guess I'll switch to redline and retune all the birds...Da recommends it as many others here. I'm not going to try and re invent the wheel, I'll just run with the next best thing . By the way... I give props to Horizon for the great customer service and returning my calls as promised! That's huge for me.
Old 09-09-2014, 10:41 AM
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A lot could depend on whether the connecting rod is bushed or bearings. DLE 20 uses a fairly cheap roller bearing and have been known to disintegrate due to low oil. I don't see the point of pushing everything to the limit all the time. A 32:1 mix of quality oil and regular gas works just fine with very little residue after a proper breakin. Like VJ, I use Penzoil air cooled oil in my DLE 20 and all my power tools. Is an extra 300-600 rpm worth blowing an engine?
Old 09-09-2014, 11:54 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by raptureboy View Post
Is an extra 300-600 rpm worth blowing an engine?
Funny thing like Speed has said already...I'm probably losing performance to a very small degree as the compression with less oil could possibly be a tiny bit less...So actually losing a few rpms if performance was my goal (Which its not) I will say that my birds with the Amsoil 100:1 are always clean on the outside and the internals look to be very clean (Looking through the exhaust and intake ports) as well but without tearing one apart completely I cannot say for certain. I will be tearing down my G38 soon to freshen as Its got 10 plus years on it and I will know for sure then. I just hope I have as good of luck with Redline as I've had with the Amsoil. Almost hate to switch but again...I only want one gas can.
Old 09-09-2014, 12:43 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by speedracerntrixie View Post
Obviously you guys seem happy with what you are running. I just have a couple comments. BZY, being that you come from a moto background running 32:1 in the bikes, I assume that you know that less oil does not mean more power. In fact at 100:1 you can see a reduction in film between the ring an cylinder. This may very well be causing a reduction in compression and loss of power.

Tpasztor. , the Av gas that you are running may have its advantages. Less smell and no ethanol. The lead even in small quantities can eventually foul your plugs ( not really a big issue ) but I question the better performance. Our engines are just not set up to get any benefit from the higher octane gas. To get full potential out of your mix you would have to increase compression and advance the timing some. The best HP for these engines in stock form comes from a mix of 87 octane and 40:1 or 50:1 quality air cooled oil.
I have run that experiment....Avgas, (which is what I use mixed 50:1 with Bel Ray MC-1 motorcycle racing synthetic) indeed produces a little lower full throttle (a couple 100 R's) than premium autogas mixed the same (oil and ratio) as avgas. Same engine, same prop, same exhaust system, same airplane, same plumbing. I practically never run at full throttle so in my set-up a couple 100 R's are invisible.

Avgas takes around 10-12 gallons to get appreciable lead build up around the spark electrode. Simply take the plug off and clean it.

I have 120 hours run time on my #1 OS GT33; squeeky clean inside, much to my surprise. No build up, no lost bearings, no seized ring, no maintenance, nada. Original plug too BTW

I have about 15 hours on my #2, and of course same thing.

I read in this thread some stuff about build up in the head....well, other than lead build up on the plug's electrode that needs cleaning every 10 gallons or so, the head remains clean. That's not because the gas I use is Avgas. It's because the carb tune is right. If you are getting head build up, you are probably running the beastie too fat.
Old 09-09-2014, 01:17 PM
  #75  
speedracerntrixie
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I personally think that as long as you are using a good quality oil formulated for air cooled engines and your mixture is set correct then you should not have any issues. The reason why some of us are using a wide variety of different brands of oil and having good success is simply because we are using enough oil in our mix. There is no magic oil. Matt makes a great point that carbon build up is usually just running too rich. Like the good old days of carburetor equipped cars. We were always changing plugs simply because the start up was pumping way to much gas into the cylinder.

That being said, getting a Walbro to have the same mixture throughout the throttle range is not an easy task.

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