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Lustercoat Compatible Paint

Old 04-18-2015, 02:59 PM
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CWRiley
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Default Lustercoat Compatible Paint

What product (Krylon H2O Latex?) can I spray my airplane with so I can overcoat with Lustercoat clear to make it fuel proof?
Old 04-18-2015, 06:45 PM
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DavidAgar
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Latex will work if you let it dry for a week before clear coating. Good Luck, Dave
Old 04-18-2015, 08:19 PM
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jester_s1
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I tested latex with lusterkote a few years ago and it ate right through it. The acetone (at least that's what it smells like) in lusterkote will dissolve most enamels. Your best bet is to stick with lusterkote for the whole paint job. If you want a clear coat that's more compatible with other paints, go with Klass Kote or Systems 3 WBPU.
Old 04-19-2015, 04:56 AM
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CWRiley
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Thanks guys for the comments. My problem is that I have to match the original latex color which the owner did not protect with any fuel proof process. So I stripped the area that got soft over time and repainting. The only other alternative is to recover the plane which is a 1/4 scale clipped wing cub in Swill rescue colors and that would be a lot of work.
Old 04-19-2015, 06:13 AM
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scale only 4 me
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Match the latex and order the sytems3 with crosslinker,, it's fuelproof,, it can be brushed on if need be.It's very easy to work with

good luck
Old 04-19-2015, 06:55 AM
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Take a color swatch to the Home Depot for a color match. They sell a tester jug of paint for about 3.99, which is hard to beat. They usually get the colors real close. I did not have the problem that was mentioned about Lustercoat, but these days I use water based clear coat. I got some from Nelsons paint and it is good up to 15 percent nitro. if you do a little research here on RCU, some other modelers are using Varathane that also comes from Home Depot. Good Luck, once again, Dave
Old 04-19-2015, 10:00 AM
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harlanb
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+1
Old 04-19-2015, 10:25 AM
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049flyer
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Simple solution is to forget the Lustercoat and use Nelson water based paint to clear coat. Goes on with a foam brush, comes in gloss, satin and flat and is fuel proof to about 40% nitro with the cross linker. Been using it with great success for a while now. I wrote an extensive review of the product and posted it on the "other" website for groups of RC modelers.
Old 04-19-2015, 12:41 PM
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I used Lustercoat to fuel proof my Heinkel 51. I fogged it over latex paint that was sprayed about a month before. It left hairline cracks over the entire airplane. Nelson's, System 3, or Klass Kote are the way to go. The best use for Lustercoat is to take up valuable space in the paint cabinet, IMHO.
Rick
Old 04-19-2015, 01:27 PM
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CWRiley
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OK Guys. You all are giving me valuable ideas some of which are a bit puzzling especially the term "crosslinker". I did manage to figure out SYSTEM3 is really "SYSTEM THREE" or "SYSTEMTHREE.COM" after a bit of googleing. Still don't know what "crosslinker" is referring to. I do have a three stage spray system but for this small of a project it does not make to use it but I might have too. The Home Depot option is appealing and will investigate NELSON water based clear coat which should be fine over any chemistry. When searching I found Nelsonhobby and that the clear coat is an epoxy. Right?
Old 04-24-2015, 06:12 AM
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tacx
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As DavidAgar said above. Take a sample piece to Home Depot and have them computer match the color and mix you a sample jar of latex, about $4.00.

I had to match three colors for a Spitfire. Took them a small piece of covering and they matched them perfectly. Then I tested the samples by spraying clear Lustrekote over them. No problem at all.

Wait a week before Lustrekote. When ready, spray with a couple very very light mist coats. Let the Lustrekote flashoff (dry) about 5 minutes between coats. Then after three light coats spray your final coat.

It works well. I had no compatibility problems.

Last edited by tacx; 04-24-2015 at 06:15 AM. Reason: spelling
Old 04-25-2015, 04:44 AM
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jester_s1
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I do realize that people have used the method tacx describes successfully. However, that method is basically just letting the solvent in the Lusterkote evaporate before it has time to attack the latex. With good technique, you will probably get away with it. But if you let the Lusterkote get wet on the latex, it will cause bubbling in the latex finish. Any way you slice it, you will be spraying a harmful solvent onto the latex paint and hoping that it evaporates fast enough to not have time to start dissolving it. If you want to clear coat over latex, the Nelsons or Systems 3 water based polyurethane (same product, BTW) is fully compatible with latex. All you'll need to do is scuff the latex after it's fully cured with steel wool for good adhesion and put the clear on. It will be durable and will look good with no worries about paint compatibility or being fuel proof.

Last edited by jester_s1; 04-25-2015 at 04:46 AM.
Old 04-25-2015, 06:04 AM
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OK. Just ordered 12 oz of System 3 poly in satin. The light spraying of Lustercoat makes sense. Thanks guys.
Old 04-26-2015, 03:05 AM
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I've never seen the need to sand the "flat finish" latex, other than only to knock down the teets,,, the systems 3 soaks into the latex nicely

Originally Posted by CWRiley View Post
OK. Just ordered 12 oz of System 3 poly in satin. The light spraying of Lustercoat makes sense. Thanks guys.
You got the cross linker too right?

The satin finish should look nice on the cub,,, you're going to have 8 oz left over for other projects
Old 04-26-2015, 06:27 AM
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No crosslinker ordered as the manufacturer claims the poly will fuel proof the paint although not as well as with the cross linker. Mind you there is a budget to work within and adding a crosslinker would not gain much other than emptying my pocket even more for an old plane.
Old 04-27-2015, 01:21 AM
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I believe the "fuel" they refer too is Gasoline/Desil,, not glow fuel, To be Chemical resistant, they recommend using the cross linker. I would make a test piece before I trust the whole plane to not using it.

good luck
Old 04-27-2015, 05:19 AM
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CWRiley
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From the web site crosslinker comes with the kit. See http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/...opcoat-c29.htm
Old 04-27-2015, 09:32 AM
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jester_s1
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You do need the crosslinker. It's such a small addition to the overall cost of doing a covering job I can't imagine why anyone would give it a second thought. If you need to do it inexpensively, use Ultracote.
Old 12-20-2015, 09:08 AM
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Could you guys give me links or other info on where to purchase this nelsons clear coat process? I have just completed a 1/4 scale DR1 that I have painted with latex and would like to clear coat thanks
Old 12-21-2015, 03:02 AM
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This is what I use http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/...opcoat-c29.htm with the cosslinker

good luck
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Old 12-21-2015, 05:39 AM
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or170b
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Originally Posted by scale only 4 me View Post
This is what I use http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/...opcoat-c29.htm with the cosslinker

good luck
would you please describe the application process that you use? I appreciate the link about how much product will I need? thank you
Old 12-21-2015, 07:20 AM
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a couple threads to scan through,,,
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/ques...-painting.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/seap...-15-years.html

I'd say one 4oz bottle would be enough if you spray it right, but @ $5 a can, might as well get two. + the crosslinker,, you'll want to use it on your next model too.

I bought two 4oz cans too,, the first time I did the Kingfisher, I used about 2oz total, I've done that plane twice now, + the Zero and still have half a can.

good luck
Old 12-29-2015, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by scale only 4 me View Post
This is what I use http://www.systemthree.com/store/pc/...opcoat-c29.htm with the cosslinker

good luck
Just for future reference, the System 3 (Nelson's) crosslinker also works with other water-based polyurethanes. I've tested it with Min-wax Polycrylic gloss and satin clear, and found it cures well to a hard, fuel-proof finish that is crystal clear. I haven't tried it as a top coat over latex but it should work the same as Nelson's.

Also, no water-based polyurethane that I've ever tried without the crosslinker will stand up to glow fuel. After a short time it will soften and turn to goo. Oil-based polys (polyurethane spar varnish) are quite fuel proof when cured but everything I've found has a light to deep yellow tinge.

Last edited by CurtD; 12-29-2015 at 07:34 AM.
Old 12-29-2015, 11:02 AM
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Good to know,, I have plenty of crosslinker, I'll have to give the minwax a try next time

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