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Ca glues

Old 08-11-2015, 01:39 PM
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552transco
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Default Ca glues

Hi Everyone,

It has been awhile since my last post. I have been busy and working hard. Now I have all the time in the world. I recently retired and it feels great. I can now concentrate on what I like best. That is building and flying RC planes. The problem I have now, since I got older, is with the CA glues and/or sanding the balsa. My nose gets really stopped up and I can feel it in my throat. I kept my wife up half the night coughing. My question is does anyone know of a mask that would keep these CA fumes out of my system. I have a mask but it is really for sanding. When I use it with the CA glues I can still smell them.
I really need a good mask because I don't want to stop building.
Thanks in advance to all my RC Brothers and Sisters for their help.


Wayne
Old 08-11-2015, 01:59 PM
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Square Nozzle
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Wayne, I would suggest that you ditch the CA and use a glue like Tite Bond. The few minutes you save by using CA is not worth risking your health. While you're waiting for the Tite Bond to dry you can sit back and watch a good TV program (Wow! Is that an oxymoron) or have a cool drink.
Old 08-11-2015, 03:49 PM
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JohnBuckner
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Go to home depot or similar store and purchase a 3M or similar Professional multi purpose Respirator with ov/ag P100 approved cartridges. These blocks the organic vaper/acid gas and completely eliminate the balsa dust which is what I use this type respirator for. Especially when I am about to start a vigorus sanding session.

John
Old 08-11-2015, 04:46 PM
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Gray Beard
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I had the reaction from the CA myself. Once I knew what it was I started working in a more ventilated area. By that I opened the windows and doors. That works well during the summer when I do most of my building. During the winter I only do a few minutes work in the shop then leave. I finally gave the Old SIGMENT glue a try. sort of a trip down memory lane. That works a lot better during the winter for me. Quick drying, not as fast as CA but faster then the wood glues plus I got no warping from water based glues.
Sanding, I had to take it all outside but when winter really hits I take all the parts to be sanded to my wood workers club to sand, open space plus a dust system.
The dust mask caused my glasses to steam up too much but it worked.
Old 08-11-2015, 05:20 PM
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Hmmm if your mask causes your glasses to steam up then you are not using a proper respirator just one of those cheezy cotton things that do not work. A good (the best)respirator at home depot is about forty bucks and replacement P100 cartridges are about twenty bucks. I average replacing them about once a year and I do not have to drive anywhere or move the project anywhere else to sand when the urge hits me which is often. Oh and my glasses never fog.

John
Old 08-11-2015, 05:48 PM
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John. I was painting cars and rails in my shop for a long time and tried about everything except a gas mask and air got out at the bridge of my nose then fogged up my glasses. I had to under cut the mask at the bridge so the mask would fit flush over my nose to avoid the steam. Only time I use a paper mask is when sanding or mowing the acreage and even with the wire bridge clamped tight I still need to cut slits in the mask under the nose to keep from steaming up.
I have never had any mask fit me well. I'm fine if I don't wear the glasses, the bridge of the mask fits flush but to see anything I need to custom fit the mask.
Old 08-12-2015, 11:15 AM
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Top_Gunn
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Odorless CyA doesn't have this effect, and you can use it on foam, too. And the vapors won't fog clear plastic, so you can use it near canopies. It's expensive, but for me worth it because the regular stuff makes my nose run like crazy.
Old 08-13-2015, 11:45 AM
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Go with Tite bond for most of your building. You won't loose any time if you change your methodology. After you pin, glue, and frame out a stab, for example, you can switch off to a rudder, wing, etc. while the glue is drying. Tite bond isn't good for laminations but works pretty well for nearly anything else unless it has to be super strong in which case you would use epoxy.

Try to eliminate sanding as much as possible except for finish sanding by using woodworking planes and saws instead. If I need to shape a wing tip, I will saw out the basic shape a little oversize then glue it in place and work it down real close with a plane. Go to leevalley.com for a very nice selection of high quality planes. Don't forget to take a look at the miniature planes while you are there. I use the miniature block plane for a lot of model building. Planes don't generate dust, they make chips and chips won't get up your nose. You will need to learn to sharpen the blades though.


carl
Old 08-14-2015, 01:16 PM
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552transco
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Gentlemen,

Thank you so much for your response to my problem.

Square Nozzle and Carl, I do have some Titebond but I never tried it. Carl, framing and gluing then working on something else while it dried, is exactly what my wife suggested I do.

John, I went to the Home Depot web site and found the mask you described. I went to the Amazon site and found the exact same mask for six dollars less with free shipping. Needless to say, I ordered it.

Gray Beard, I haven’t thought about Sig-Ment glue for a long time. I used that a long time ago for gluing plastics to balsa. Thanks for the suggestion Gray Beard.

Top Gun, I have seen the odorless CA but didn’t know if it would work as good as the smelly stuff because it said it was safe on foam. After your suggestion I am going to try it.

I know I should switch to Titebond or Sig-Ment glues. I am having trouble letting go of my CA glues because they are so fast and efficient.
Thanks again everyone for all your suggestions. I appreciate you taking time to help me out.

Take care,

Wayne
Old 08-14-2015, 01:33 PM
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Working on multiple tables with titebond is what I do.. and of course breathing any dust or fumes is not good for you long term. I REALLY have trouble with CA, and avoid it when possible. The balsa dust gets me as well so I hear you !

I have found that old ca in rebuilds even gets to me while sanding,when I am working on planes I have been given..
Old 08-14-2015, 02:31 PM
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And thank you Wayne for returning to let us know and congratulations on your retirement you will soon learn that retirement and this passion called modeling/flying go together like milk and honey

John
Old 08-14-2015, 03:51 PM
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Thanks John, it actually took a month or so to realize I don't ever have to go to work. I am really looking forward to building and flying. I have built kits my entire RC career but I have a couple of plans to try and do my first scratch builds. I have the 81" plans from Northeast Aerodynamics for the OV10 Bronco and a twin engine pattern plane called the Big Apple. It should be interesting how these turn out.
Thanks again John, maybe I will see you in AZ sometime. Do you fly out of a club there?
Take care John,

Wayne
Old 08-14-2015, 05:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 552transco View Post
Thanks again John, maybe I will see you in AZ sometime. Do you fly out of a club there?
Take care John,

Wayne
Yup sure do, this is home base for me:

http://kingmanmodelers.net/

Currently involved in a major runway polymer netting project that is wonderful even flying controlline to turbines there now hopping to woo the jet crowd next year for a jet fly.

John
Old 08-16-2015, 08:09 AM
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I too am sensitized to CA glue and epoxy fumes. Any kind of simple dust mask is a waste of time and money. Even the ones with the carbon filters are no good.

My solution is to have an extraction system. I use an inline fan like this http://www.homedepot.com/p/Suncourt-...B206/100067594 and some flexible ducting. I hang one end out the window and position the other beside the glue-ing area. Fumes get sucked out. This has worked for me.

I also wear latex gloves anytime I work with epoxy. I am seriously sensitised to epoxy dust so am very careful sanding it. If at all possible I will wet sand and bag any residue before it drys out.
Old 08-16-2015, 12:36 PM
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Ventilation > filtration. Balsa dust is one of the worst irritants around because it hangs in the air for so long. I think a sanding table that vents to outside would be a great investment for you, both for gluing and sanding. Pair that with some fresh air room ventilation and I think your problem would go away.
Old 08-20-2015, 07:24 PM
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552transco
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Mr. Duncker and Jester, thanks for your input on my problem. It is comforting to know I am not the only one that is bothered by balsa dust and CA glues. I really like your idea of ventilation. It would be nice to have like a giant paint booth that sucks the fumes up and away.
Thanks for your suggestions and time.

]Wayne
Old 08-21-2015, 05:56 AM
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Have you seen a sanding table before? You take a sheet of peg board material and a sheet of plywood or anything else without holes and build a thin box out of them with 1x2 or 1x3 boards. You then attach a vacuum cleaner to the side in a hole through the 1x2so that you get suction through the holes of the peg board. It would probably work just as well to build one a little thicker and attach a vent fan to the outside instead of a shop vac.That way both your dust and your fumes will be pulled down away from your nose and blown out of your shop. Add to that some fresh air flow and the safety of your work area should increase dramatically.

Here's a picture

http://home.mindspring.com/~the-plum.../01SandBox.htm
Old 08-24-2015, 02:10 PM
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Mr. Jester,
Outstanding, this is one of the best ideas yet. And sending the picture with the ideas is a bonus.
Thanks Jester for your great idea.

Wayne
Old 08-25-2015, 07:38 PM
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It's not mine, but I'm glad it helps. I just pass on what others have taught me.

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