receiver and ignition sharing same battery
#8
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For a cheap (about $6.00) HK 1100 ma Life ignition battery you want to risk it? I also have gotten away with things I shouldn't have, that why we make choices..............not to say mine are always the best
#9
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Personally, I think a $6.00 battery is a higher risk than a Tech Aero IBEC. First, I will never fly a gasser without a kill switch, which the Tech-Aero IBEC has, and pretty sure it has a current limiting circuit...should the ignition module fail...the engine will quit anyway...so you won't be in the air very long... but there will be enough battery to land...runway or otherwise. I could go through the count of my flying hours and number of planes...all with a Tech Aero IBEC and single LIFE battery, but the count doesn't really matter in the over all...it's just the best (not the only) way to go...fewer components to fail.
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#12
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Actually, the only ignition module I've see fail did just that...it died and so did the engine...no huge current draw...no current draw at all. The ignition module failing and draining the battery is the argument used against dual use of a single battery...probably has happened, but I've never seen it. I guess I was skeptical at first so I tried it on a test plane and it worked...for me...so as I built new planes, the single battery and Tech-Aero IBEC is all I use. In fact, I don't even use a mechanical switch for the ignition...just the IBEC plugged into the receiver. That's just MY experience...others may have experienced less than wonderful results...
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#13
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When is the last time you saw an ignition run away and "take out" a battery?
Actually, the only ignition module I've see fail did just that...it died and so did the engine...no huge current draw...no current draw at all. The ignition module failing and draining the battery is the argument used against dual use of a single battery...probably has happened, but I've never seen it. I guess I was skeptical at first so I tried it on a test plane and it worked...for me...so as I built new planes, the single battery and Tech-Aero IBEC is all I use. In fact, I don't even use a mechanical switch for the ignition...just the IBEC plugged into the receiver. That's just MY experience...others may have experienced less than wonderful results...
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#14
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Actually, the only ignition module I've see fail did just that...it died and so did the engine...no huge current draw...no current draw at all. The ignition module failing and draining the battery is the argument used against dual use of a single battery...probably has happened, but I've never seen it. I guess I was skeptical at first so I tried it on a test plane and it worked...for me...so as I built new planes, the single battery and Tech-Aero IBEC is all I use. In fact, I don't even use a mechanical switch for the ignition...just the IBEC plugged into the receiver. That's just MY experience...others may have experienced less than wonderful results...
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Sorry I couldn't help it....
#15
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Here's what Futaba has to say about the subject. Dan.
Guidelines for setting up gasoline engine models. All ignition equipment, including an electronic kill switch, must be mounted at least 12", and preferably 14", away from all radio equipment, including throttle servos, etc. Ignition kill switch should always be on opposite side of fuselage from radio kill switch. All pushrods going to anything related to the engine must be non-conductive (just nonmetal clevises is not sufficient).
Guidelines for setting up gasoline engine models. All ignition equipment, including an electronic kill switch, must be mounted at least 12", and preferably 14", away from all radio equipment, including throttle servos, etc. Ignition kill switch should always be on opposite side of fuselage from radio kill switch. All pushrods going to anything related to the engine must be non-conductive (just nonmetal clevises is not sufficient).
#17
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Here's what Futaba has to say about the subject. Dan.
Guidelines for setting up gasoline engine models. All ignition equipment, including an electronic kill switch, must be mounted at least 12", and preferably 14", away from all radio equipment, including throttle servos, etc. Ignition kill switch should always be on opposite side of fuselage from radio kill switch. All pushrods going to anything related to the engine must be non-conductive (just nonmetal clevises is not sufficient).
Guidelines for setting up gasoline engine models. All ignition equipment, including an electronic kill switch, must be mounted at least 12", and preferably 14", away from all radio equipment, including throttle servos, etc. Ignition kill switch should always be on opposite side of fuselage from radio kill switch. All pushrods going to anything related to the engine must be non-conductive (just nonmetal clevises is not sufficient).
Been flying my Ziroli 70" P-47 on one battery for 3 years,, including last weekend
#18
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My latest ARF is equipped with one excellent life battery, two switches and an ignition kill switch operated by the transmitter. The whole set up is recommended by the ARF distributor who has a huge experience and excellent reputation with gas engines. It works great!! I agree with Barracuda Hockey, some are following recommendations made on the basis of out of date technology.
#20
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GIZMO: Actually, separate ignition and receiver batteries and switches aren't really redundant...one can't work in place of the other.
I'm not saying the dual use (not redundant) system is right for everyone...but is has sure worked for me. The nice thing about this hobby is that one is free to do it this way...or follow the Futaba way...the choice is yours.
Andy: Yes Murphey...as in "Murphey's Law"...look it up in the dictionary...you'll see my picture!
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I'm not saying the dual use (not redundant) system is right for everyone...but is has sure worked for me. The nice thing about this hobby is that one is free to do it this way...or follow the Futaba way...the choice is yours.
Andy: Yes Murphey...as in "Murphey's Law"...look it up in the dictionary...you'll see my picture!
M
#21
I'm hoping that is sarcasm since I would never say that. When you consider that every time one those jets leaves the ground, 200 people(or more,on average) are being carried on them. For those that have never seen a jetliner under construction, it's amazing how much aluminum, wire and all the other materials that are needed to assemble one. Even more amazing is the amount of labor and knowledge goes into that construction as well.
#22
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I'm not sure it's been made clear to the OP that some kind of electrical isolation is necessary to be able to use a single battery for both the receiver and ignition. If you use a dual output plug switch and just run one to the receiver and one to the ignition, you will probably have interference problems. The aforementioned IBEC works just fine, as does an optical kill switch.
#24
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I'm not sure it's been made clear to the OP that some kind of electrical isolation is necessary to be able to use a single battery for both the receiver and ignition. If you use a dual output plug switch and just run one to the receiver and one to the ignition, you will probably have interference problems. The aforementioned IBEC works just fine, as does an optical kill switch.
IBEC's aside, I have many hundreds of flights on planes with two leads coming out of the battery, one going to the ignition, one going to the receiver, it's not a problem.
#25
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It's all about comfort level I guess. I feel comfortable running two batteries, 3 actually 1 ignition and 2 for the aircraft through a smart fly board.
If your ok with one battery then fly your airplane with one battery
of all the things in the world to get in a pi**ing contest over this is pretty minor
If your ok with one battery then fly your airplane with one battery
of all the things in the world to get in a pi**ing contest over this is pretty minor