Electriceddie

Hi Guys,

I have the Robart #630RS 90 deg Pneumatic Main Retracts. My question is at the end of the air cylinder there is an air inlet or nipple the air hose attaches to:

I noticed it was a bit loose when I removed the air hose. I was thinking it was a threaded cylinder so I could tighten it but it kept spinning. I was able to spin it and eventually I tried to un-screw it to remove it. I finally fell out and upon examination it appears to have some sort of glue residue around the base. So could it have been it was just glued into the hole in the end of the cylinder? Zap or Epoxy not sure, but I cannot believe it was just glued in. I am not sure how to proceed. I can re-glue it in, but with what Epoxy or Zap? Or should I just order a new cylinder? I am not sure if it will hold if I glue it and I just don’t know if I want to chance a stuck retract on landing of a big ship. Any Ideas or Suggestions?

Thanks

Ed

j.duncker

My Feedback: (2)

JB weld then cycle it a few times to see if it holds.

kenh3497

I agree with the JB weld. Do everything in your power to remove the old glue and make sure it is squeaky clean with no trace of oil. Also if possible some light roughing of the surface will help retain the nipple in the cylinder. For the nipple I would lay the nipple on the bench and use my hobby knife and roll the nipple under the knife to make some radial grooves on the nipple. Some light radial scratches in the hole in the cylinder will help the nipple stay put.

Ken

Electriceddie

Hi Guys,

I happened to have some JB Weld Steel Stick. I rolled some out and made a 1/4" square and took a small round push rod and used it by pressing into the center of it making a small hole. Do it on wax paper and it's easy to remove. Then I placed it over the hole in the cylinder and pushed the nipple into the center of the hole. Then I pushed the play-do like epoxy - Steel Stick up tight to it all around the sides. I think it will do the trick. They say it sets up in 3-5 mins. and full cure in 60 mins. to the point it can be drilled & tapped. Steel Stik cures to a dark grey color, is rated at a tensile strength of 900 PSI and will with stand temperatures up to 300ºF.

Cooolll....

Ed

Steve Collins

My Feedback: (8)

I had a similar experience with the nipples on a turbine fuel solenoid. Pulling on the fuel line to get it off, one of the nipples came out. Seems that the nipples are press fit into the solenoid body. What you have described sounds like the nipple in the air cylinder is also a press fit rather than threaded. I used the green penetrating Loctite on the nipple and never had any other problem with it. I see you have already done the JB Weld thing so keep this suggestion filed away in case you have another issue with a nipple down the road sometime.