CapttRob

Im getting dull scratches when covering my TF Corsair. I tried the sock over the iron but it doesnt seem to allow enough heat through the sock. Anyone have some helpful hints? Im cleaning my iron regularly with a wet paper towel and making sure the kote is clean before i apply it. Am i using too much heat? Im using the TF Monokote iron with a setting of 2 and 3/4. This setting seems to be the most effective. Thanks in advance...

tiggerinmk

I seem to have a similar problem. When covering the a solid stab with Ultracote I noticed a long dent appear in the surface. I wasn't using the point of the iron and there didn't appear to be any protuting edges or foreign object that could cause it. This was with a Tower Hobbies iron with a TF sock.

I,ve just got a Coverite iron, so far I've only used it to seal down edges on an ARF but it looks promising; it looks like I might be able to use it without a sock and leave no marks.....

CafeenMan

CapttRob - Test your iron heat by putting a small piece of the covering on a scrap of sanded and vacuumed wood. You want to use as little heat as possible that allows the coveing to stick and, when cooled, will take wood with it when you peel it back off.

Sometimes those scratches aren't scratches, but are glue. If you wipe it with lacquer thinner or acetone glue will come up. If they are scratches, try using the iron only around the perimeter and then a heat gun to shrink. Use a soft cloth to press the covering to the ribs and anywhere you didn't tack it with the iron.

You can polish monokote with a very fine metal polish or a polish for plastic, but I don't bother with it because the stuff gets scratched up in normal use and it's not worth the effort. For models like your Corsair, I use a painted finish and it holds up better and longer.

- Paul

Stick Jammer

CapttRob,
You'll get a much better finish by using a heat gun on sheeted surfaces instead of an iron. Just use the iron to tack down the edges first. Follow the sequence outlined in the instructions that are included with the MonoKote leaving a small area at one end "open" for the air to escape. Then use a heat gun and a Hot Glove to shrink the covering tight. Start at the opposite end from the opening that you left and move the gun slowly in one area at a time until the covering is tight and wrinkle free. With the covering still hot, use the Hot Glove to press the covering down on the sheeting. Continue on until you reach the end with the opening and press it down tight. Be sure to heat each area enough to get all of the wrinkles out BEFORE pressing it down with the glove. If you press it down with the glove while any wrinkles are still visible, they will be extremely hard to remove at that point. With a little practice, (and good surface preparation), this method will yield a glass finish. Using an iron for sheeted surfaces tends to "mash" the covering into the wood grain. I'm sure there are some people that can get great results with only an iron but a gun works much better for me. I've also found it unnecessary to use a "woodpecker" on sheeted surfaces before applying the covering. Try the heat gun method on some scrap to get the feel of it. Some colors will need more heat than others. Good luck!

Azcat59

Use the Top Flite iron with the commercial sock on it, and keep the temperature dial down to around 160-175 (will be around 200 plus actual thermometer heat). Work slowly, don't press real hard. Gives a stable finish over sheeted surfaces.

Clair
AMA 15654

nchrome

One other thing you mite want to consider and I do this all the time and that is toilet paper between th iron and the covering. Workes very well for me. Plus you can crank up the heat if needed and still come out with a good looking covering job.

CapttRob

Thanks for all the responses guys. Very helpful. I never tried a heat gun, but im going to soon. Matter of fact i may pick one up today. The toilet paper idea is a good one. I thought of using a paper towel. I also think im pressing too hard with too much heat. I turned the iron down and tacked the edges just like i was covering open areas. Pulled and tacked till no wrinkles. Then worked the center (leaving an out for air). This is one of my first times covering sheeting. It seems the best method is the same method i was using on open areas. I really wanted to silk and paint this bird (did a J-3 in silk, came out awesome) but i have to get used to kote one of these days, so i figured i would try it on the Corsair. Eventually im going to rip off the kote and go glass or silk (probably during my first repair... hehe). Definitely gonna try the heat gun this weekend. Again, thanks for the help....!

anyone have a link to a glassing tutorial? Has anyone ever tried covering the whole model with balsa filler, sand, prime and paint? I think this would be really light, but alot of sanding. Probably not too strong though.....

CafeenMan

Well, it just so happens....

How to Fiberglass

I think you're making your life difficult by doing one finish and then going back and swapping it out. All your hinges will be glued in and you'll have to cut them if you really want to go from film to glass later.

CapttRob

actually.. my hinges are screwed in

thanks for the link...

CafeenMan

Alrighty then.

You're welcome

CapttRob

I read over your article. Nice job by the way and thanks. (im assuming you wrote it, same picture on custom builds)

I never thought of using epoxy for a finish. Though it might get too bumpy. I guess the slower curing expoxies lay out nice. Especially with scraping off excess. However, i did notice that the weave will be filled in later with primer after one coat of epoxy cures. Do you have a link to finishing with primer? What primer to use that will fill the weave? Im assuming glass is chosen over silk mainly due to price? I have had awesome results with dope and silk. Also, "feathering"? Can you overlap edges or does the cut have to be perfect, then sand... ? ie, wait for one side to cure, feather it, then cut a 1/8 to 1/4 over lap on next piece to be applied? Or does the cut have to match the seam exactly cause it will "double up". I dont remember reading anything about over lap. I could have missed it. Thanks again....

CafeenMan

Last time I bought finishing resin, I purchased 1 hour epoxy. It is way too slow and unless I'm glassing a Rutan home built, I'll never buy it again. 30 minute epoxy gives plenty of working time. The problem with the 1 hour epoxy is it takes forever to cure and it soaked into the wood so much that the weave needed a lot of filler. Never had that problem with 30 minute epoxy.


Whatever primer is recommended for the paint you will be using. Usually a sandable type. I don't have any links, but Nelson Hobbies carries paints and primers. You'll find Nelson on the web easily.


I use glass on solid surfaces because I think it's a better finish than silk. And yes, it's a lot less expensive.


Yes, you wait for it to dry and the edges will sand to a nice, thin edge that you can't feel. Then you overlap as you said and sand that edge. When you're finished, you'll never see the overlap. The plane in my article is getting clear polyurethane for a finish. You can't even see where the cloth overlaps because it turns nearly invisible.

CapttRob

excellent.. thanks... my next project is going to be a P51 and its definitely getting glass. I'll have to practice a bit on some scrap sheeting to get the feel of it first, sanding techniques and how much primer i'll need etc but it looks like it will be a nice finish. My dad is very old school and used to use several coats of polyurethane with hardener and no glass. I tried it once a long time ago on a Sig Bonanza and didnt come out right. Seemed like alot of sanding as well. Thanks so much for your contributions and your site. I put it in my favorite places....

CafeenMan

CapttRob - First, thanks for your compliments. I really appreciate it.

Second, any painted finish is a lot of work and a lot of sanding. That's why I don't paint all my planes, but I do paint the most "important" ones. In my view, some planes are worth the work. The plane in that article has had the first coat of polyurethane drying for two weeks. Even here in Florida, it is cold enough that it is taking a long time to harden enough to sand. Once it is hard, I will sand it nearly back down to the glass and then recoat it. It may even require a 3rd coat. if so, then this finish will take me almost 2 months to complete and it's as simple of a painted finish as there can be.

However, epoxy paints will harden faster than the polyurethane I use, so I could have been sanding this coat a week ago. A lot depends on how you do things and the climate. But as I said, all painted finishes are a lot of work if you really want them to look good = lots of sanding.