$n4IL

I see some of you posting that you put your lead to balance fore-aft on the engine mount. How exactly do you attach the lead securely? I have lead in both ribbons and peel-n-stick 1/4 and 1/8 oz pieces that are used for model trains and have always put it against the back of the firewall. But, having it in front of the firewall clearly has the advantage of being further forward and thus greater moment on the cg. So, how do you attach it?
Thanks!

av8r4aa

My Feedback: (82)

When I need nose weight I go to the hardware store and buy a box of B B,s
They work great using epoxy in the front of the cowl.
If you have no cowl go to the fishing supply store and get some lead sinkers.
I would attatch it VERY WELL Not the time to test fly a tail heavy plane after a violent snap roll!

Azcat59

Don't trust the stick-on weights to stay on. I use JB Weld epoxy to epoxy lead to the engine mount rails, then run a 4-40 bolt through it to be sure. I don't like to add it to a separate cowl, because it can add a lot of vibration to the cowl, and I know of one case where the cowl came off in flight, and of course then the plane was wildly tail-heavy.

Clair

swooper

I cast the size weight I want and bolt it to the engine mount. It's pretty simple to make a balsa box and line it with foil. The lead gets melted in a tin can that's been bent to form a pouring spout. After the mold's filled, the cooled can gets discarded, leftover lead and all. The whole operation is done outdoors to minimize poisoning. I found all my lead shot on the ground at the fair grounds. I guess some hot-air balloon dropped it. Tire stores also give away used wheel weights.

Never used the Higley heavy hubs but they sound great, providing flywheel effect also.

linclogs

I do what Paul ("Swooper") does. Cast the weights the size and weight I need and attach them under my fiberglass motor mounts. Just use longer bolts to mount the engine. Let the bolts protrude down through the mount (as long as you need them) and attach the lead weights by drilling holes through the lead and use lock nuts (the type with the nylon inserts) on the ends of the bolts. One cheap source for lead is tire stores. Ask for a handfull of old wheel balance weights. They've usually got plenty of old ones laying around and I've never seen them re-use them.

As Paul mentioned, DO be careful NOT the breathe the fumes while melting the lead! Can give you dain bramage! (Maybe that's what's wrong with me???)

Dsegal

Buy some Sig weights. They are flat plates that come in 1/4oz. and 1/2oz. sizes. The hole in the center allows you to attach them to the firewall or anywhere else convenient.

$n4IL

Thanks for all the replies. Once, I did do some lead melting to get a 'slug' of lead to fit into the nose of my Nemesis (composite glider) but the whole time I was worried about the fumes. I'll try the bolt through the lead trick next time.

jessiej

jessiej

I have melted hundreds of ponds of lead in casting bullets. Fumes are no problem if done outdoors. Bigger dangers are using a flimsy container that may cause a spill, or getting a drop of water in the molten metal.

Advantages are that you can easily cast all sorts of shapes to fit in available nooks and crannies..

jess