Do you know any pro cowl painters????
#1
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (47)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Irving,
TX
Posts: 1,162
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Do you know any pro cowl painters????
Hello,
I'm building a 38% CA Extra 300L and want this plane to look GOOOOOD! I have painted many cowlings in the past with the spray paints but have always been less than satisfied with the results (I always get the dreaded orange peeling). Does anyone know of a person who does pretty good work and can match Monokote colors? I understand a lot of auto places can do it, but I'm looking for someone with model painting experience.
I would probably be a simple 1 to 3 color cowling with a clear coating.
Wheel pants and aluminum gear will also need painting/clear coating.
I am hoping to get a finish just like that of a car, with no orange-peeling.
Thanks,
Dave
I'm building a 38% CA Extra 300L and want this plane to look GOOOOOD! I have painted many cowlings in the past with the spray paints but have always been less than satisfied with the results (I always get the dreaded orange peeling). Does anyone know of a person who does pretty good work and can match Monokote colors? I understand a lot of auto places can do it, but I'm looking for someone with model painting experience.
I would probably be a simple 1 to 3 color cowling with a clear coating.
Wheel pants and aluminum gear will also need painting/clear coating.
I am hoping to get a finish just like that of a car, with no orange-peeling.
Thanks,
Dave
#2
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
RE: Do you know any pro cowl painters????
Use latex paint. It can be color matched to just about any color for about $10 a quart. I have never had latex orange peel or react with something already there. A BIG PLUS to latex is that if you mess up, just take a damp/wet cloth and wipe it off. Latex will adhere to just about anything including raw fiberglass. Latex can be sprayed or brushed on. Use about 1 - 1 1/2 caps of Flotrol per UNDILUTED quart of paint (Flotrol retards the drying so brush strokes/sags level themselves), and if brushing it on use a FOAM brush. The catch to latex is to make sure it is cured BEFORE clear coating it.
To find out if it is cured, press your thumb firmly on a hard area. If a print remains, leave it alone for awhile (the thumb print will disappear) and try again. It can take as long as 30 days for the latex to cure, however, most latex will cure in 7 - 10 days.
For clear coating I like to use MinWax Polycrylic. This is a water base polyurethane that does not yellow. Other options for clear coating is a clear ACRYLIC LACQUER, Ultracote clear or Lustercote clear. To me, the big advantage to the MinWax is that I can determine the amount of gloss that I want.
To find out if it is cured, press your thumb firmly on a hard area. If a print remains, leave it alone for awhile (the thumb print will disappear) and try again. It can take as long as 30 days for the latex to cure, however, most latex will cure in 7 - 10 days.
For clear coating I like to use MinWax Polycrylic. This is a water base polyurethane that does not yellow. Other options for clear coating is a clear ACRYLIC LACQUER, Ultracote clear or Lustercote clear. To me, the big advantage to the MinWax is that I can determine the amount of gloss that I want.
#3
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (47)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Irving,
TX
Posts: 1,162
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Do you know any pro cowl painters????
Thanks! Do I just go to a store like Sherman Williams? What about masking using Latex? Does is mask well, meaning will it make sharp lines when unmasked or does it rip?
Dave
Dave