Rayvyn

My Feedback: (1)

Ok, here is the problem... I have a tapered surface on my Albatros fuselage and I want to wrap it with bands of Black and White Solartex... Being a WWI era aircraft, fabric is a must but with fabric, painting is really out due to the bleeding of paint at the edges... The natural answer is Solartex but the problem is that on the tapered surface, simple rectangular strips wrapped around would not work... On the smaller of the two edges (front and rear), because of the taper in the body, there will be an excess of material so it will either fold over and look horrible or I could try to drastically shirk it in which it will also look terrible... The only way I can think of is to cut some measure of circular strips that when wrapped around will accommodate this taper... The question then is how can I calculate what the circular degree of the band itself and make sure each is the right size for it's individual taper??

Here is a basic picture of the bands I am trying to make...

patternwannabee

My Feedback: (1)

I have not worked with Solartex, so I could be completely wrong on this.

I would treat this as a compound curve (curve in at least 2 directions). After adhering the first part of the band, as you proceed to the next side, heat the fabric ahead of where it's attached to the fuselage, but don't iron it down just yet. Let the heat stretch the fabric, and with your other hand, gently pull the the unattached portion to correct the direction of the band. When the wrinkles are gone, attach the side.

Or, you can use 4 band segments for each band if you don't mind the seams.

deljon

My Feedback: (4)

My Dr.1 is covered with Solortex and I did not have a major problem in repainting it.
First I sprayed the whole area white, which will fill a lot of the weave. Gave it a good day to dry then masked off the edges with 1" blue masking tape, filled in the area in between with newspaper. Ran my thumb nail alonge the edge to make sure it sealed good, then sprayed the black.
I then removed the tape very carefully while paint was still wet, pulling it back away from the white.
In a few area's where there was some bleeding, I just touched it up with a brush after it dryed being careful to keep the lines a straight a possable.
I even went back over the whole area with the brush so that brush strokes would show a little. Then I clearcoated the whole plane with Min-Wax semi gloss. (the black and white is Rust-Olum)
Remember that during WW1 they didn't have spray guns or masking tape. They just drew out their designs with chalk, then painted it free hand. No sharp crisp lines.
So it just depends on the effect you are looking for.

One caution, my first attempt, I clear coated first thinking that would fill the weave. Didn't work, the Rust-Olum didnot adhere to the Min-Wax very well and most of the paint pulled up with the tape.

That's my story and I'm stick'n to it !!!!!!

Del Johnson

jaka

Hi!
I would definitely use paint to colour those black lines.
So easy just to mask and then spraypaint...or brush.
remember to always draw with the thumbnail over the masking tape before you brush on the paint ..and to always brush from the tape ..never brush against the tape. And most vital...brush on several thin coats...not a single heavy coat.

Regards!
Jan K
Sweden

Rayvyn

My Feedback: (1)

I think you are all right... That Fokker looks great Del... Where did you get the prop??

deljon

My Feedback: (4)

The prop is from Proctor and is for display only, its 28" for 1/4 scale, they also have an Axial decal for it.
GTM also has one that is a bit more pricey, but much better quality.

Let us know how your paint job comes out. I really enjoyed doing mine.
Have fun

Del