ronk1

My Feedback: (25)

Is the "new" Ultracote paint better then the "old"? Does it dry and match [:@]? I would like to use it before spending the $$$ for auto paint. Any info would be helpful.

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

I asked this question a few weeks back, and got zip for responses. Apparently, no one here has tried it lately.

I took a chance and ordered four cans for the trim work on my current project; red, white, blue, and silver. Unfortunately, it will be some time before I'm ready to try the stuff; I have a bad habit of allowing a fresh interest to interfere with a current project.

I've been working on this Kougar for six months; with any luck, I'll have it ready for spring...

Campy

My Feedback: (1)

I have had excellent matching with white, flame red and torch red. Like any paint that is not custom mixed, it is quite close. You will almost never get an exact match with premixed paint due to minor variations in mixing the paint and minor variations in the dye/paint lot used on the film.

To save some money you may want to consider using latex paint with a clear coat of water base polyurethane. If you go this route, be advised that latex takes an AVERAGE of 7 - 10 days to cure and the clear coat should not be applied until after the latex cures.

vicman

My Feedback: (10)

I don't know how the "old" worked but I recently used "True Red" for a project with no problems. I did need to use a white primer as grey seemed to slightly darken it from the covering. That said at 15' you couldn't tell the difference.

Walter D

My Feedback: (16)

I can't tell you if the paint I used was the "new" one or the older one. I used the yellow color to paint the cowling, landing gear and wheel pants on my new Skyfarer, I was very dissapointed in this paint, although in this picture the colors look OK, in reality the paint is a yellow with a very strong green hue, not at all like the color of Ultracote, but the worst part is that this paint doesn't fully cure and after only a few flights (maybe ten or twelve) the paint is starting to swell and just plain desintegrate in the cowling, I am using 15 % nitro fuel on an OS .70, which its crankase excess is vented to the outside of the cowling, same for muffler exhaust.
This paint acts more like Krylon than anything else, I am very experienced in painting and have used a multitude of them, this one is all hype, inside the can it is all liquid garbage of the best kind!! Remember, I told you so.

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

Well, Walter, I'm committed now. I ordered four cans and they are sitting at the LHS waiting for me.

Slow or no curing seems to be the big complaint. A pal did his GP RV-4 cowl and pants with it, and the stuff took almost a month to fully cure. It seems to be good and hard now, but fuel hasn't hit it yet, either.

Guess I'll find out, one way or another...

Did you use the Ultra-Paint primer on yours?

Walter D

My Feedback: (16)

I used Rust Oleum automotive primer, with which I have never had any problem whatsoever with during the years, the parts were not painted until maybe 3 or 4 weeks after primed, surface was ultra clean and the primed surfaces had a good tooth for the paint to adhere to, just old Rustoleum paint is ten times better than this one, also after painting the parts it was like another month before they were exposed to wear (minimal).

ronk1

My Feedback: (25)

After mixed reviews I'm going to give the "new" Ultracote paint a try. I hope its better then the old stuff in the small can. I'll give an opinion after I try the White and Deep Blue.

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

I'll be interested to hear how it worked for you.

I've got four cans of color and one of primer sitting on the floor, but it will be some time before I get around to trying it.

Too many projects; so little time...

ronk1

My Feedback: (25)

The verdict is in, very good color match but there are some tricks to do a nice job. If you are going to paint white use as light of a color primer as possible. For blue (or any colored) the light gray works well. Shake the can more then most then apply a thin coat. after 24hr lightly wet sand it (this removes the orange peel) then a second thicker finish coat. Immediately use your heat gun to warm it up(not hot), this will make the paint "flow" and will be as smooth as an auto finish. In conclusion, if the white does not yellow, the "new" paint is very good.

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

Okay, Ron, sounds good. I'll try the heat gun trick.

The problem my pal had was that the white took FOREVER to dry/cure; like, over a month.

But we flew the plane Sunday, no problems with the painted cowl.

I'm keeping my fingers crossed...

Falcon_az

My Feedback: (25)

I need some help. I'm trying to do a simple silver and black strip on white H9 Ultracote. Horrible results! The H9 silver paint peels right off the covering when I pull the 3M 471 plastic mask tape off. The H9 paint has been curing at room temp for 72 hours... in another spot the paint cured for 72 hours... and... I spent 5 minutes on the surface with my heat gun to help cure it... same result, the H9 paint peels right off the ultracote.
Is it the H9 Ultracote Paint I'm using?
Can ultracote be painted?
What paint should I use?

This is the process I use for the Ultracote surface prep:
1. Wash surface to be paintedwith non-detergent/non-hand conditioner soap.

2. Wipe surface with professional grade wax and grease remover, such as Dupont First Klean

3. Scuff surface with Scotch Brite pad.

4. Wipe surface with professional grade wax and grease remover, such as Dupont First Klean again

5. Wipe surface with tack cloth.

6. Mask lines with 3M 471 brand pinstripe masking tape. It is Blue in color and comes in different widths 1/8", 1/4" etc.

7. Measure and make sure this is where everything goes.

8. Mask Large areas with 3M brand masking tape and masking paper. Don't use news paper as a mask. This will cause loose particles to beplaced in your paint while spraying.

9. Wipe surface with professional grade wax and grease remover, such as Dupont First Klean, again Wipe on with the rag that is wet with First Klean and then use a dry cloth to wipe off immediately. Do not use cotton cloths or paper towels.

10. Wipe surface with tack cloth.

11. Start Spraying.

Thanks!

jollyroger

My Feedback: (6)

My only experience is with the "Cub yellow" paint. I purchased two cans to paint the cowl of my Cub. The paint did not match, It was too light in saturation and no matter how many light coats I applied, it made no difference. I called the people at Hangar 9 and they were gratious enough to send me two new cans at no charge. Again there was no difference. The paint would not match the Ultra cote covering. I was very dissapointed. I spent 16.00 on two cans, then called hangar 9 and for all my effort I could not get the paint to match their Ultra cote "Cub yellow". I spoke to another flyer and he had the same problem with their red. I do not know where the paint is being produced but they need to go back to their manufacturer and get things straightened out. I ended up using Testors "yellow" for the cowl and found it nearly matched the Ultracote.
Good luck.....

blikseme300

My Feedback: (118)

It has been my experience that most yellow paints do not cover very well. It is as if there is not enough pigment in it. What I did on the 2 Cubs that I did is to use white primer, a coat of silver paint and then the yellow. That was the best I ever got. The background colors can and will affect most colors. Experiment if unsure what different colors will do on the surfaces that you want to paint. This stops lots of head-banging and use of strong language. (This also works when deciding what iron on film covering should go over what.)

Have fun!

Dai Phan

My Feedback: (2)

Hello,

My advice is to STAY AWAY from Ultrakote and use Top Flight Lusterkote. The paint dries in 5 minutes and is sandable. For scale jobs, use Createx Auto Air and paint with airbrush or by hand. The paint goes on smooth and dries very fast. Then if you want gloss, overspray with LusterKote clear. I use this system with wonderful results. Dai

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

I agree that LusterKote is a good product; problem is, it doesn't match UltraCote colors.

What's with the dark gray primer??? I shot my parts with it yesterday; ronk1, you were right, I'm going to have to sand all ALL of this primer coat off the cowl so the white won't be darker than the white covering.

Interesting idea re putting heat on the paint immediately after spraying. I'll give that one a shot. But first, I've got a load of wet-sanding to do...[&o]

The other part is supposed to be silver; I'll bet this dark gray primer will "gray out" silver as well. So I'd better sand it off that part too. What the heck; we do this to kill time, right???

LSP972

My Feedback: (13)

Ron, I used a hair dryer instead of a heat gun; but man, were you ever right! The heat made the paint lay down like a rug. It is the best finish I've ever gotten out of a rattle can; absolutely NO orange peel, which is pretty much standard for rattle cans.

The white covered the gray primer well. I got lazy and didn't sand the primer off; just smoothed it up lickety-split with 600 grit wet. It took several light coats, followed by a heavy "wet" coat, but it covered well with no runs, etc. It seems to be curing fine. 48 hours after spraying, the surfaces are able to be handled without leaving any finger prints or deformations, but I'm going to wait the specified 72 hours before masking and shooting the other colors.

So far, so good. Perhaps they finally got the formulation correct.

Anyway, Ron, just wanted to let you (and the others) know that the haet trick worked like a champ for me. Thanks again.