ORIGINAL: Kelsey_B

I have glassed my first wing with thinned epoxy and .5 ox cloth. I filled the weave with dark red, thinned spot putty. I have sanded the wing and it seems ultra smooth.

>The spot putty is very heavy for filling the weave. For future reference, I use
>a micro balloon mix for filling the weave. In your case, it would be a mix of
>micro balloons and epoxy.
>
>If you have not tried the water base polyurethane method of applying the
>fiberglass cloth, I strongly recommend it. It is lighter than epoxy and MUCH
>EASIER to sand - in fact, you need to be careful you don't sand through the cloth.


My question is about the primer. Alot of people say the spray primer and sand it off. I'm not sure why they do this.

>The reason for the primer is to find highs and lows. I usually spray a THIN
>coat of primer and then block sand. Once I have located the highs and lows
>I will fill the lows with a lightweight filler. Then I do another THIN coat of
>primer and block sand again to make sure I got everything.


Also, with the red putty, I have this red/balsa camoflouge pattern. Can I paint straight over this, or do I need to apply a coat of primer. Just trying not to add unnecessary weight.

>You will need to apply a coat of primer, otherwise the paint will, in all
>probability, not adhere properly.

What do some of you do before applying finish coat?

>I do any detailing that may need to be done - recessed panel lines, rivets,
>etc.
>
>For your finish coat, if the paint is not fuel proof OR there is ANY question at
>all about whether or not it is fuel proof, you will need to clear coat it. I have
>found that 2 coats of water base polyurethane is definitely good to 10% nitro
>(reports indicate it is good to 15% nitro ). If you are going to clear coat the
>paint, I suggest applying the decals and other trim items and then clear
>coating. That way everything gets sealed/protected at once.