Lustrekote primer peels right off
04-15-2005, 10:12 AM
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Lustrekote primer peels right off
I used Lusterkote's white primer to prime my T28 cowl the other day. I can't recall, but I don't think the cowl is made of ABS. Anyways, after a couple days, I go back and tape off the area where I want to paint using 3M's blue tape. I had to reposition the tape and as I lifted it up, the primer came right off[:@]. I decided to go ahead and at least paint the sectioned off area with Lusterkote black. Several coats later and it looks pretty good, but I am worried that this won't hold, as the primer underneath doesn't seem to hold well. Also, I haven't taken off the blue tape yet and I can just see a big mess coming my way. I know I probably shouldn't have forged ahead, but.....
Also, the rest of the cowl is supposed to painted red and I was using Ultracoat Red paint for this, since I used the ultracoat red for my covering. Now I read comments here about how lousy ultracoat paint is and wonder if putting it on top off the lustercoat primer is even worth it? On top off all this, I'd like to clearcoat the entire cowl, but not sure what to use.
Should I just start over and strip what I have on there off? How would I do this? I heard the krylon paints are better and if so, should I even bother with a primer? I gently scuffed the cowl with a 000 brillo pad prior to using the primer. I had heard that I don't even need the primer, but figured what the heck. Now I am not too sure. Sorry for the ramble and thanks for the help.
Also, the rest of the cowl is supposed to painted red and I was using Ultracoat Red paint for this, since I used the ultracoat red for my covering. Now I read comments here about how lousy ultracoat paint is and wonder if putting it on top off the lustercoat primer is even worth it? On top off all this, I'd like to clearcoat the entire cowl, but not sure what to use.
Should I just start over and strip what I have on there off? How would I do this? I heard the krylon paints are better and if so, should I even bother with a primer? I gently scuffed the cowl with a 000 brillo pad prior to using the primer. I had heard that I don't even need the primer, but figured what the heck. Now I am not too sure. Sorry for the ramble and thanks for the help.
04-15-2005, 11:22 AM
#2
RE: Lustrekote primer peels right off
ORIGINAL: jzinckgra
I used Lusterkote's white primer to prime my T28 cowl the other day. I can't recall, but I don't think the cowl is made of ABS.
>If you have any scrap material from the cowl, try some paint thinner, NOT
>lacquer thinner or acetone. Put the thinner on the scrap (really soak it )
>and let it sit for an hour - you will know if the cowl will be OK. If not, sand
>it off. After sanding the old paint off, go over the cowl at least twice with
>alcohol and clean cloths to get off any finger oils. Then you can paint.
Anyways, after a couple days, I go back and tape off the area where I want to paint using 3M's blue tape. I had to reposition the tape and as I lifted it up, the primer came right off[:@].
>Which 3M blue tape did you use ? I suggest the 3M "60 day Safe Release"
>tape. If you look at the side of the wrapper you will see an adhesive rating.
>What you want is the 2 dot adhesive rating. The 60 day stuff also has a
>paper appearance. If it has a textured appearance it is a 3 dot or higher
>adhesive rating.
I decided to go ahead and at least paint the sectioned off area with Lusterkote black. Several coats later and it looks pretty good, but I am worried that this won't hold, as the primer underneath doesn't seem to hold well. Also, I haven't taken off the blue tape yet and I can just see a big mess coming my way. I know I probably shouldn't have forged ahead, but.....
Also, the rest of the cowl is supposed to painted red and I was using Ultracoat Red paint for this, since I used the ultracoat red for my covering. Now I read comments here about how lousy ultracoat paint is and wonder if putting it on top off the lustercoat primer is even worth it? On top off all this, I'd like to clearcoat the entire cowl, but not sure what to use.
Should I just start over and strip what I have on there off? How would I do this? I heard the krylon paints are better and if so, should I even bother with a primer? I gently scuffed the cowl with a 000 brillo pad prior to using the primer. I had heard that I don't even need the primer, but figured what the heck. Now I am not too sure. Sorry for the ramble and thanks for the help.
I used Lusterkote's white primer to prime my T28 cowl the other day. I can't recall, but I don't think the cowl is made of ABS.
>If you have any scrap material from the cowl, try some paint thinner, NOT
>lacquer thinner or acetone. Put the thinner on the scrap (really soak it )
>and let it sit for an hour - you will know if the cowl will be OK. If not, sand
>it off. After sanding the old paint off, go over the cowl at least twice with
>alcohol and clean cloths to get off any finger oils. Then you can paint.
Anyways, after a couple days, I go back and tape off the area where I want to paint using 3M's blue tape. I had to reposition the tape and as I lifted it up, the primer came right off[:@].
>Which 3M blue tape did you use ? I suggest the 3M "60 day Safe Release"
>tape. If you look at the side of the wrapper you will see an adhesive rating.
>What you want is the 2 dot adhesive rating. The 60 day stuff also has a
>paper appearance. If it has a textured appearance it is a 3 dot or higher
>adhesive rating.
I decided to go ahead and at least paint the sectioned off area with Lusterkote black. Several coats later and it looks pretty good, but I am worried that this won't hold, as the primer underneath doesn't seem to hold well. Also, I haven't taken off the blue tape yet and I can just see a big mess coming my way. I know I probably shouldn't have forged ahead, but.....
Also, the rest of the cowl is supposed to painted red and I was using Ultracoat Red paint for this, since I used the ultracoat red for my covering. Now I read comments here about how lousy ultracoat paint is and wonder if putting it on top off the lustercoat primer is even worth it? On top off all this, I'd like to clearcoat the entire cowl, but not sure what to use.
Should I just start over and strip what I have on there off? How would I do this? I heard the krylon paints are better and if so, should I even bother with a primer? I gently scuffed the cowl with a 000 brillo pad prior to using the primer. I had heard that I don't even need the primer, but figured what the heck. Now I am not too sure. Sorry for the ramble and thanks for the help.
For painting you can go several ways. I have had very good success with the Ultracote paints. They spray better and "lay" better than LusterKote, plus they work just fine over the high build automotive primer.
You can check in Wal-Mart (or similar ) for "Dupli-Color" TRUCK AND VAN paint. The color selection is limited, however it is an ACRYLIC lacquer paint that is fuel proof. Cost is about $4.00 per spray can. Just be careful of compatibility. You can put enamel over lacquer, but not the other way. FWIW - If a paint is LABLED ACRYLIC it is fuel proof.
You can also use Krylon, however it will need to be clear coated. Also SOME of the Rustoleum paints are fuel proof. I am not sure of which colors though.
If you have spray equipment, I suggest using latex paint. A QUART of color mixed paint is about $10. Bring in a sample of the color and it will be an EXACT match, not close. Latex also needs to be clear coated after it "cures".
For clear coating you can use Ultracote clear or a water base polyurethane. The water base poly is good to 15% nitro, and if you do not have spray equipment, MinWax has it in spray cans (Blue lable )
If you are interested in using latex, but have not done so before, read the attached article I wrote up on it.
04-15-2005, 03:48 PM
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RE: Lustrekote primer peels right off
I have good luck with the Krylon Fusion paints, but as Campy stated they will need to be overcoated to be fuelproof. I don't normally overcoat my cowls and are just careful when filling and defueling. I also have had not much luck with lustrecoat as of late. They must have changed the formula or something.
04-15-2005, 04:51 PM
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RE: Lustrekote primer peels right off
I've used Lustrekote white prmer on some lithoplate and it stays very well. Perhaps it's just the material it's applied to. Lustrekote seems to have changed to a laquer base and that will eat through any other paint. If I didn't have so much Monokote to match I'd try automotive paints.
04-15-2005, 05:10 PM
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RE: Lustrekote primer peels right off
Sometimes fiberglass has a little release agent left on it from the manufacturer. You really have to wash the fiberglass good with soap and water. And then when it is dry you need to scuff it just a little with sand paper to give it some tooth. I used the Lustercoat and was very happy.
04-15-2005, 11:05 PM
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RE: Lustrekote primer peels right off
Hello Campy,
I am posting to try to get some answers to this "water based Poly U being fuel proof. I just finished a Fly Baby GASSER. I read several times on the forums about polyU being fuel proof. I can guaranty it is NOT fuel proof to gas. I used a scrap piece of fiberglass from my cowl, primered, painted it, and let it sit for over a week. (auto paint from a can). I then covered it with Minwax, water based PolyUrathane, and let it sit and cure for 2 weeks. I dropped a few drops of gas and oil mix on the test, and within 5 seconds it was soft and sticky.[
] I ended up buying clear coat with cross-linker from Nelson Hobbies. What a great product. http://www.nelsonhobby.com./paint.html It is water based and I brushed it on with a foam brush.... thinned with water. (1 part water 2 parts clear,+cross-linker hardener). Jerry Nelson told me on the phone, if I was halfway decent about following instructions, it would be hard to see brush marks. He was right. [8D] The guys in the club, and I myself can't believe the outcome. ( I hate painting of ANY kind). I used this clear to seal Solartex colored fabric. Below is the finished product. ........lownslo........
For clear coating you can use Ultracote clear or a water base polyurethane. The water base poly is good to 15% nitro, and if you do not have spray equipment, MinWax has it in spray cans (Blue lable )
] I ended up buying clear coat with cross-linker from Nelson Hobbies. What a great product. http://www.nelsonhobby.com./paint.html It is water based and I brushed it on with a foam brush.... thinned with water. (1 part water 2 parts clear,+cross-linker hardener). Jerry Nelson told me on the phone, if I was halfway decent about following instructions, it would be hard to see brush marks. He was right. [8D] The guys in the club, and I myself can't believe the outcome. ( I hate painting of ANY kind). I used this clear to seal Solartex colored fabric. Below is the finished product. ........lownslo........
04-16-2005, 08:48 AM
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RE: Lustrekote primer peels right off
I don't know if water base poly is GASOLINE proof or not since I fly glow (and some electric ) planes.
From what I have been told by EXPERT PAINTERS who use latex is that clear coating is not necessary for GASOLINE powered planes (once the latex has cured ), just glow powered.
With glo powered planes I have had no problems at all using a water base polyurethane as a clear coat, provided the latex underneath has cured first.
From what I have been told by EXPERT PAINTERS who use latex is that clear coating is not necessary for GASOLINE powered planes (once the latex has cured ), just glow powered.
With glo powered planes I have had no problems at all using a water base polyurethane as a clear coat, provided the latex underneath has cured first.
04-17-2005, 07:02 PM
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RE: Lustrekote primer peels right off
well, as I pulled the tape off to get ready to paint the rest of the cowl, sure enough, the paint came right off. Heck, I was able to take what was left of the primer right off by putting some of the 3M blue tape on and quickly pulling it off. So , I took all the primer off and sanded and directly applied black lustrecoat to the cowl. It's drying now, so I'll see tomorrow if it adheres at all. BTW, I am using 3M painters tape.
04-17-2005, 07:18 PM
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RE: Lustrekote primer peels right off
I know you are supposed to use primer under the Lusterkote........ but..... I painted an aluminum landing gear with Missle Red, NO primer, no sanding the aluminum, just cleaning it with acetone a COUPLE times being careful NOT to touch the gear. (I made a handle to go in the axle hole). The paint on that gear stood up to fuel and bending for almost 3 years with absolutely NO problems. In fact, I had one heck of a time getting the paint off the gear when I wanted to chance colors. I have had some problems with primer and paint on fiberglass cowls. You really have to clean all mold release off the glass and lightly sand too. This last cowl went perfect. I must have had it prepared better........lownslo
04-18-2005, 02:40 PM
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RE: Lustrekote primer peels right off
If the tape on the roll has a "paper" appearance and/or says "60 Day Safe release" it is the 2 dot adhesive. If the tape on the roll has a textured appearance it is a 3 dot or higher adhesive rating. The 14 day safe release tapes are typically a 3 dot adhesive rating rating.
04-19-2005, 09:38 AM
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RE: Lustrekote primer peels right off
i pulled the tape off last night and the black lustre didn't peel at all. so i guess the primer wasn't behaving right and directly applying the paint to the abs was ok. i then taped off the black section entirely and sprayed the rest of the cowl with Hanger 9 true red. With the low humidity we had last night, the paint dryed within a couple hours. I put about 3 light coats on. So my other question is using the lustrcoat clear coat to fuelproof the cowl. Obviously, the lustre clearcoat is compatible with the black, but anyone know if it is compatible with the hanger 9 stuff? I'm worried that the red might "bleed" if i spray it on.
04-19-2005, 02:40 PM
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RE: Lustrekote primer peels right off
well, i've heard conflicting reports about the 15% nitro resistance and I also wanted to get that "glossy" look as well. thanks
04-21-2005, 05:52 PM
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RE: Lustrekote primer peels right off
DO NOT USE LUSTREKOTE OVER HANGER 9 -- It will orange peel. I was finishing a plane with LusterKote and ran out of yellow for the control surfaces and the bottom of the body. My LHS only carried Hanger 9 which matched pretty good. Needed to overcoat to blend in the various layers. Sprayed LustreKote and .... started all over again.
I have had only moderate success with Hanger 9 paint and being fuel proof. LustreKote on all of the colors I have used is definately fuel proof.
I have switch most of my painting over to acrylic applied with an airbrush and clear coat with fast drying polyurythane.
I have had only moderate success with Hanger 9 paint and being fuel proof. LustreKote on all of the colors I have used is definately fuel proof.
I have switch most of my painting over to acrylic applied with an airbrush and clear coat with fast drying polyurythane.
