Stit's covering
#1
Stit's covering
Stit's covering
Anyone have experience with Stit's Poly-fiber covering?
I sort of like the fabric appearance for an old bi-plane instead of the smooth plastic appearance of modern coverings. Can this be stretched and doped into position in the format which silk had been used?
All I can find at this time is how wonderfull their quarts of covering binder are for resisting ultraviolet light on full-sized A/C.
Wm.
Anyone have experience with Stit's Poly-fiber covering?
I sort of like the fabric appearance for an old bi-plane instead of the smooth plastic appearance of modern coverings. Can this be stretched and doped into position in the format which silk had been used?
All I can find at this time is how wonderfull their quarts of covering binder are for resisting ultraviolet light on full-sized A/C.
Wm.
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RE: Stit's covering
I have used it with great results. Yes it can be stretched and doped which is the way you put it on. Then you shrink it with a heat gun just like the plastic films.
There is a How-to video which I bought when I ordered my supplies. This is a great tool to have, it teaches the skills which are needed to get great results, well worth the $20 for the video.
I agree, an old biplane needs fabric. Don't forget to order the rib tape, it adds to the look your after.
tonyc
There is a How-to video which I bought when I ordered my supplies. This is a great tool to have, it teaches the skills which are needed to get great results, well worth the $20 for the video.
I agree, an old biplane needs fabric. Don't forget to order the rib tape, it adds to the look your after.
tonyc
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RE: Stit's covering
I have used Stitts for years and love it especially on larger models but have covered everything from a 1/3 scale Pup to a 40 size plane with it. I had a uncle who covered real planes and he got me started using the lighter fabric, 1.7 oz pre square yard. I also get the Stitts glue, Poly-Tac, and use that to put it on. You put the fabric on and shrink in with an iron. With the Poly-Tac you go over the seams first and the glue softens and the fabric shrinks so no problems there. Then shrink the rest of the fabric. I am getting to cover a Robinhood 80 with Stitts in a week or so.
One word is you must have a good structure to cover. The first time I used it I actually warped the structure with the fabric. Places around ailerons and such need to be reinforced.
Cliff
One word is you must have a good structure to cover. The first time I used it I actually warped the structure with the fabric. Places around ailerons and such need to be reinforced.
Cliff
#4
RE: Stit's covering
How does it cut? Scissors OK?
I had heard there was some lighter, finer material than the 1.7 available.
Can I apply in panels like old fashioned silkspan. You know a wing tip, maybe the center section, then the main wing top and bottoms?
I like to appy wholey with dope, as I have the colors tinted up and ready to replace. Used to lay down a layer of dope on wood, then moosh in the fabric till the liquid oozed through. Sound familair, and can I do this once again?
Stit's is only 10 minutes from here and will allow walk-ins at their Flabob factory. Much simplier for me to telephone in advance, pick it up, than to order from Texas.
Wm.
I had heard there was some lighter, finer material than the 1.7 available.
Can I apply in panels like old fashioned silkspan. You know a wing tip, maybe the center section, then the main wing top and bottoms?
I like to appy wholey with dope, as I have the colors tinted up and ready to replace. Used to lay down a layer of dope on wood, then moosh in the fabric till the liquid oozed through. Sound familair, and can I do this once again?
Stit's is only 10 minutes from here and will allow walk-ins at their Flabob factory. Much simplier for me to telephone in advance, pick it up, than to order from Texas.
Wm.
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RE: Stit's covering
I cut the Stitts with scissors but it will dull them pretty quickly. Usually have scissors and a new exacto handy when I start.
I don't know if there is any lighter than the 1.7 and haven't looked at the stitts web site lately. I am working on a ten yard roll of fabric left over from when my uncle stopped doing planes. I will be watching this post so if you find out please post it.
I have used everything from dope to thinned Elmers carpenter's glue but like the Poly-Tac best.
I don't like seams so I try to cover wings in a single section of fabric. I usually attach to the trailing edge and wrap the fabric around the under surface, around the leading edge, the top surface, and then attach over the first seam on the leading edge. Then I cover the tips from that piece of fabric with just a seam and joint around the tip. I end up wasting a little fabric but if you are careful not much and it makes a nice looking wing if not using pinked tape on the seams.
If Stotts is that close call and check if they have Poly-Tac in pints and pick up some of that. Stop by Home Depot and get a pint of MEK to thin it with if you need to and you are ready to go.
Please post some photos as you go. At this point I am wondering if the dope will hold when you go to shrink the fabric. It might be worth making a test square from scrap balsa and covering it to see how the dope holds up when you shrink the fabric. The Stitts info gives you temps for the iron so you will need to be able to check the temp of the iron, it does make a difference.
Cliff
I don't know if there is any lighter than the 1.7 and haven't looked at the stitts web site lately. I am working on a ten yard roll of fabric left over from when my uncle stopped doing planes. I will be watching this post so if you find out please post it.
I have used everything from dope to thinned Elmers carpenter's glue but like the Poly-Tac best.
I don't like seams so I try to cover wings in a single section of fabric. I usually attach to the trailing edge and wrap the fabric around the under surface, around the leading edge, the top surface, and then attach over the first seam on the leading edge. Then I cover the tips from that piece of fabric with just a seam and joint around the tip. I end up wasting a little fabric but if you are careful not much and it makes a nice looking wing if not using pinked tape on the seams.
If Stotts is that close call and check if they have Poly-Tac in pints and pick up some of that. Stop by Home Depot and get a pint of MEK to thin it with if you need to and you are ready to go.
Please post some photos as you go. At this point I am wondering if the dope will hold when you go to shrink the fabric. It might be worth making a test square from scrap balsa and covering it to see how the dope holds up when you shrink the fabric. The Stitts info gives you temps for the iron so you will need to be able to check the temp of the iron, it does make a difference.
Cliff
#7
RE: Stit's covering
Well, they "used" to have available a lighter fabric, but no longer. They initially gave me a 54" wide bolt with about 6 yards left on it, but had many wrinkles. Settled for a 3 yard bolt (for free) and will be going with that. I am only 10 minutes from the Flabob warehouse, so just drove over today. Many, many folks there have been working a decade or so at same place. As I had first gone to Flabob airport cafe back about 1955 and saw the little hangar Stits were working out of then.
I asked about scissors, as certain fiberglass fabrics tend to dull them. I have two sharp pair left, and will cut from razor blade if problems.
I am going to use it on an old Sterling Piper Tri-pacer. Will use the one section method as Clifford mentioned. They said dope has been used, but need to watch out for softening too. Begin with 225 D to tack edges, then go for about 250 to shrink whole fabric tight. Anything beyond 300 D will destroy it. Read about right?
Wm.
I asked about scissors, as certain fiberglass fabrics tend to dull them. I have two sharp pair left, and will cut from razor blade if problems.
I am going to use it on an old Sterling Piper Tri-pacer. Will use the one section method as Clifford mentioned. They said dope has been used, but need to watch out for softening too. Begin with 225 D to tack edges, then go for about 250 to shrink whole fabric tight. Anything beyond 300 D will destroy it. Read about right?
Wm.
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RE: Stit's covering
The temos sound about right. I don't remember what their papers say about the temp to use but the last couple of times I used the Stitts I didn't go as high as they say so the fabric wasn't as tight as it could have been.
That is interesting that they don't have the 1.7 oz anymore but I haven't gotten any in awhile and still have some on a bolt. I think that was sold for ultra light planes and you could also use it over plywood. Hum. . .wasn't there someone selling Stitts for models, Scale Stitts Covering or something like that? Wonder if he is still in business and wht he is selling? I might have to contact Aircraft Spruce and see if they still have any 1.7 oz.
Cliff
That is interesting that they don't have the 1.7 oz anymore but I haven't gotten any in awhile and still have some on a bolt. I think that was sold for ultra light planes and you could also use it over plywood. Hum. . .wasn't there someone selling Stitts for models, Scale Stitts Covering or something like that? Wonder if he is still in business and wht he is selling? I might have to contact Aircraft Spruce and see if they still have any 1.7 oz.
Cliff
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RE: Stit's covering
I just looked at Aircraft Spruce East and they are still listing this:
POLY-FIBER FABRIC
UNCERTIFIED LIGHT
60" Width P/N 09-02001 $6.05 Request Quote /Lineal Yd.
1.7 oz., lightweight fabric recommended for covering ultralight aircraft. This fabric will be unstamped. It is not approved for certified aircraft.
Notice that they list it as not approved for covering certified aircraft. That was listed under Stitts products on the web site and is what I have been using.
Cliff
POLY-FIBER FABRIC
UNCERTIFIED LIGHT
60" Width P/N 09-02001 $6.05 Request Quote /Lineal Yd.
1.7 oz., lightweight fabric recommended for covering ultralight aircraft. This fabric will be unstamped. It is not approved for certified aircraft.
Notice that they list it as not approved for covering certified aircraft. That was listed under Stitts products on the web site and is what I have been using.
Cliff
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RE: Stit's covering
One other Poly Fiber type covering is Sig Koverall. It is a bit lighter than Stits (1.25 oz vs. 1.7) but still very durable. I used Sig Stix-It and an iron to glue it down (it is heat activated), then a heat-gun to shrink it. Worked very well. I have even used it on smaller structures, as long as they are fairly rugged. The weave on the fiber is a bit more coarse than Stits, but other than that, it is a good product. I also got into this because I couldn't get myself to cover a large bi-plane with plastic film! The Poly Fiber is tougher and less prone to hanger rash than plastic, but if you do puncture it, it is more timely to repair.
Good luck with your project!
Good luck with your project!