Wulf

My Feedback: (5)

What kind of thinner can I use with this paint--Tower no longer sells this thinner and it`s getting hard to find ,besides being expensive--Will acrylic lacquer thinner work--What will work-??HELP !!

iaclmac

At your local automotive supply store, you should be able to find "DuPont 3608S". It is a acrylic lacquer thinner. I have been ysing it successfully with other dopes such as SIG and Testors. I see no reason why it would not work for you, However testing is always the key.

Wulf

My Feedback: (5)

Thankyou I will give that a shot--

linclogs

I've used dope for years. As a kid I used Testors and occasionally Aerogloss. Then got into using SIG and have used only SIG for a long time. But somewhere along the line, I read that Aerogloss is not compatible with the other brands. Don't know why IF they are all 'butyrate' dope. But the thinners MAY still be compatible. I'm not sure.

Even SIG dope has changed in recent years. It used to be great to work with - it would stick covering easily to concave surfaces (like under-cambered wings) but no more. Succesive coats tend to "un-stick" the covering off such surfaces and the cloth wants to "bridge across" these areas. I emailed the "SIG Factory Fliers" (as they like to be called) several years ago and described this "new" problem. The answer I got back was (and I'm quoting), "Yea, we know". No explanation or recommended cure. Then later, someone told me that ALL dopes had to change part of their content per the EPA and that was why they don't "act right" anymore. Also, SIG's label now is much more comprehensive regarding the inherent dangers of their product. The label on an older can I have states, "DANGER: Contains Cellulose Acetate, Acetone, Methyl Cellosolve Acetate, and Toluol. If swallowed do not induce vomitinmg. Call a physician immediately. Keep away from heat, sparks, or open flame. Avoid contact with skin or eyes, and breathing of vapor spray mist. In case of contact with eyes, flush thoroghly with water for at least 15 minutes. Get medical attention. Use only in a well ventilated area."

That was the extent of their "warning".

The newer label sounds much more ominous as this has been added: "Containes MIBK, MEK, NBA, and E3EP..... Prolonged or repeated exposure by inhalation of high vapor concentrations and/or by repeated skin contact with the liquid may cause delayed or serious injury to the nervous system, blood, kidneys, liver, or lungs. USE ONLY IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA! The use of respiratory protection (NIOSH/MSHA TC 23C or equivalent) is strongly recommended. In case of contact with skin or eyes, flush thoroughly with water for at least 15 minutes. Get medical attention. KEEP AWAY FROM CHILDREN.
"NOTICE: Reports have associated repeated and prolonged occupational overexposure to solvents with permanent brain and nervous system damage. Intentional misuse by deliberately concentrating and inhaling the contents may be harmful or fatal".

Sounds like pretty nasty stuff. Let's see... how many years did I sit at my workbench (actually my Mom's card table) doping my latest model project while growing up?

Iaclmac was right on - "testing is always the key".

linclogs

Wulf

My Feedback: (5)

Is it allright to use Sig thinner with Areogloss-??It seems to mix fine -I have some Sig thinner and it seems OK-I have my cowel already painted with Aerogloss and want to paint another color on it-otherwise I`d just do it all with Sig Paint-Like I said Tower no longer carries theAerogloss thinner-I only bought from them outa convenience--

weskel

Un related question about dopes....


I need to repaint a dope and fabric covered cub, I believe it is covered using nitrate?? Dope.

Can I just simply repaint it with my choice of fuel proof paints?

or is there a compatability issue...

The aircraft has a gas engine on it also, so the dope finish on it now is gasoline proof..

Thanks for any help.


Weskel

kdheath

Nitrate and butyrate dope both resist gasoline. Nitrate won't resist glow fuel.

It's kind of unlikely that the entire finish is nitrate dope. A lot of dope finishes were/are done with nitrate dope as a base and butyrate for the top coats. You can put butyrate over nitrate, but not the other way around. In theory, you should be able to put anything you want over dope. Just be sure that the surface is squeeky clean and well sanded. Then try a test in a hidden spot before proceeding. There is always a chance of having a problem.

Mike Denest

My Feedback: (1)

And don't forget that nitrate is highly flammable so be careful with your gasser if that's the only finish. I use nitrate to attach the covering and fill the weave with two coats. The rest is butyrate.

mred33

If the new dope has MEK in it, you had best be very carful with it. MEK is some MEAN stuff and can blind you. That is the same thing they use in fiberglass and there have been warnings around in the mags. about using MEK and the dangers of comming in contact with it, especially in the eyes. It also has other dangers during use, so any time you are working with anything with MEK, use it in a VERY well ventilated area and use a mask. MEK is not something you want to take for granted. Just my .02 worth, but I never work with MEK inside anymore, always outside and with a mask. That stuff is the main cause of brain damage along with kidney and liver damage if taken through the skin. Like I said, just my .02 worth, but it is nasty stuff. Some of the other items that you listed in the modern dope is not very good either. Almost as bad as MEK, but not quite. They are all bad though.

Stew99

You may be confusing MEK with MEKP (methyl ethyl ketone peroxide). MEK is a solvent similar to acetone and can be purchased at your local paint and hardware store. MEKP is used as a catalyst for polyester resin. It really is nasty stuff and is suspected of being used in homemade bombs.