Makeing a scale Bristol F2B exhaust
07-25-2006, 08:42 PM
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Makeing a scale Bristol F2B exhaust
Ok, Everyone!
Im wanting to make a scale exhaust for my Bristol F2B, Im thinking of
mounting it to the engine with a silicone header. But I dont know if the
silicone header will handle the heat.
Actually I wanted to use one of those Saito flex pipes, but the shortest
one they make is around 5 inches and I only have around 2 inches to
work with.
Thats with me makeing the exhaust the way I want to, If I find out that
the couplers cant handle it, then maybe Ill readjust my design.
In these pictures, you can more understand my problem with room, and
here is something I thought of while makeing these pictures.
What do you think about getting a flair nut from a regular Saito exhaust
pipe, and putting it on the brass tubing, and mounting straight into the
head. It wouldnt have no flex, but I could make my first mount to the
fuselage further down about 6 or 7 inches.
I could also come up with some kind of soft mount and it could flex a
little there.
I dont know, I really aint even ready to start this project yet, Im currently
working on covering and stitching.
I just wanted to start getting opinions now so that in a week or so Ill be
ready to go with it.
The real picture shows the exhaust Im going to make.
The little wood header is to give a better ideal of what we are looking at
and how the header will be shaped.
Give me your opinions everybody ! Im trying to figure out the best way
to go.
I just thought of something else. It would be great if the material the flex
pipes are made of can be brazed, ( or what ever you would call it ) to the
brass tube, then I could cut the flex pipe to the length I need and fasten it
to the home made brass header.
Does anyone know how to fasten a Saito flex pipe to 3/8" brass tubing ?
Ok, Thats my problem. Help!!
SEEYA, TIM
P.S.
I know I can have one made, but I want to do it myself.
Im wanting to make a scale exhaust for my Bristol F2B, Im thinking of
mounting it to the engine with a silicone header. But I dont know if the
silicone header will handle the heat.
Actually I wanted to use one of those Saito flex pipes, but the shortest
one they make is around 5 inches and I only have around 2 inches to
work with.
Thats with me makeing the exhaust the way I want to, If I find out that
the couplers cant handle it, then maybe Ill readjust my design.
In these pictures, you can more understand my problem with room, and
here is something I thought of while makeing these pictures.
What do you think about getting a flair nut from a regular Saito exhaust
pipe, and putting it on the brass tubing, and mounting straight into the
head. It wouldnt have no flex, but I could make my first mount to the
fuselage further down about 6 or 7 inches.
I could also come up with some kind of soft mount and it could flex a
little there.
I dont know, I really aint even ready to start this project yet, Im currently
working on covering and stitching.
I just wanted to start getting opinions now so that in a week or so Ill be
ready to go with it.
The real picture shows the exhaust Im going to make.
The little wood header is to give a better ideal of what we are looking at
and how the header will be shaped.
Give me your opinions everybody ! Im trying to figure out the best way
to go.
I just thought of something else. It would be great if the material the flex
pipes are made of can be brazed, ( or what ever you would call it ) to the
brass tube, then I could cut the flex pipe to the length I need and fasten it
to the home made brass header.
Does anyone know how to fasten a Saito flex pipe to 3/8" brass tubing ?
Ok, Thats my problem. Help!!
SEEYA, TIM
P.S.
I know I can have one made, but I want to do it myself.
07-26-2006, 06:22 PM
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RE: Makeing a scale Bristol F2B exhaust
Less :
I wasnt sure where to post this question, but Ive gotten lots of ideals now, Ive posted it on 4 different RC sites. The ideals you give me on my build thread and Tom Crump give me another good ideal. ( Aluminum flex pipe betweeen the engine header and the home made header ). Id like to get some and expirament with it first though. I want to make sure it will work, because when I make the headers. I want to make them one time and it work.
The aluminum flex pipe is just cut to length and clamped on both ends with hose clamps. If it will handle the heat, that for sure is the easiest way to go.
SEEYA, TIM
I wasnt sure where to post this question, but Ive gotten lots of ideals now, Ive posted it on 4 different RC sites. The ideals you give me on my build thread and Tom Crump give me another good ideal. ( Aluminum flex pipe betweeen the engine header and the home made header ). Id like to get some and expirament with it first though. I want to make sure it will work, because when I make the headers. I want to make them one time and it work.
The aluminum flex pipe is just cut to length and clamped on both ends with hose clamps. If it will handle the heat, that for sure is the easiest way to go.
SEEYA, TIM
07-27-2006, 09:42 AM
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RE: Makeing a scale Bristol F2B exhaust
Hey Tom. I also think that heat would not be a problem, but I think material thickness might be. Also I would say that 4 stroke exhaust is signifigantly hotter than 2 stroke, regardless of engine size.
Tim: I have been known to use automotive fuel tubing for coupling between engine and exhaust. This PT-17 was done up in April of 2000, and you can tell by the gunk that it was flown a lot. This picture I just took to illustrate the point. It may be difficult to see, but it is just toward you from the valve cover, and just forward of the needle valve extension.
Les
Tim: I have been known to use automotive fuel tubing for coupling between engine and exhaust. This PT-17 was done up in April of 2000, and you can tell by the gunk that it was flown a lot. This picture I just took to illustrate the point. It may be difficult to see, but it is just toward you from the valve cover, and just forward of the needle valve extension.
Les
07-27-2006, 09:55 PM
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RE: Makeing a scale Bristol F2B exhaust
Tom :
Sorry, I just ask you that question again on a different post, just ignore it.
Les :
I tried the same thing on a OS .91 and it burned through within 4 or 5 flights. ( My Jungmiester by the way ) But there was a bend in it and there wont be on the Bristol. I think Im leaning toward the aluminum or stainless steel. I might go with the stanless steel though, I dont have no worries with that.
SEEYA, TIM
Sorry, I just ask you that question again on a different post, just ignore it.
Les :
I tried the same thing on a OS .91 and it burned through within 4 or 5 flights. ( My Jungmiester by the way ) But there was a bend in it and there wont be on the Bristol. I think Im leaning toward the aluminum or stainless steel. I might go with the stanless steel though, I dont have no worries with that.
SEEYA, TIM
