Sportflyr

My Feedback: (1)

Just about every model with UC seems to do this, you get a little
exhaust on a section where there are sharp corners and the corners
just want to peel as soon as I wipe the model down. I try to wipe with the
stripes carefully and I do re-iron them but it seems once it happens
the seams and sharp corners like striping between stab and elevator get worse.

Is there a solvent for this like the Monokote solvent or is there an easier fix.
I really hate using CA for this as the CA tends to be messy, whitens and discolors
Ultracote...Please Help!

The Ghost

You need to seal the edges with a very hot iron, or use the Monokote solvent when building the model. Once it has lifted with oil under it, it is almost impossible to get it to restick. Try the solvent. You don't need much. I usually use the solvent after covering before fitting out.

Cheers

da Rock

My iron at 250degrees basically "hides" the overlaps if I put light pressure on each pass. At least running my finger over them indicates they're MUCH flatter. I've really never had any UltraCote job I did have a seam come up. So I don't usually do anything special. That is, other than take some time to run the iron on all the overlaps. however......

I've been sealing the edges of all my homemade decals with Testors clear decal sealer, which appears to be nothing more than clear lacquer. I'd be using clear lacquer if I had any, but I don't. And the LHS has 4 or 5 racks of all different kinds of Testors. It's liquid in a square bottle about 4X the size of their color paints. I brush it and it's dry as fast as lacquer dries.

I'd say that it'd do just as good a job on the covering seams as it does on the decals. And the decals done on the white paper soak up oil like a sponge without the lacquer, so I know one coat does a good job on the decals.

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

Uless it is a trim piece of a different color than what it is laying on, always cut the corners to avoid sharp points.

I f it IS a trim piece where a sharp corner can't be avoided (Like the points of a star) I add the tinyest bit of thin CA. The way to get the smallest amount possible is to put the CA on a pin and use the pin to apply it.

PS, MonoKote Trim Solvent will NOT work on Ultracote.

jsn

My Feedback: (8)

Solvent won't work with Ultra coat, if the HOT iron won't keep it down some clear fingernail polish or some CAREFULLY placed thin CA will keep it in place.

John

Umm... what Minnflyer said

fastplane

For a covering piece of UC I usually round the corners unless it needs a sharp point. For long seams or corners you can use a clear paint or clear nail polish. Of course using any type of 'paint' means that you need to keep the hot iron away from the 'paint'. If you need to remove the nail polish remember that actone removes it quickly.

bingo field

First, I clean up the area with 70% alcohol. Wiped dry. Use the iron best I can to try and tack it back down. Once down, I dip a cotton swab in some Balsarite and brush on a thin layer of that. For the resistant corner, I push some balsarite under, and carefully use an xacto point to push the corner into the layer of balsarite until it "sets", a minute or two.

Sportflyr

My Feedback: (1)

Thanks for the quick replies everyone...

I cleaned the area with a swab & alcohol as suggested and ran the iron a tad hotter
I cleaned underneath the offending stripe also but, wouldn't this tend to thin
the adhesive?

I figured if the stripe end itself has oil underneath it, it will never really stick again anyway.

I will go and pick up some of the Balsarite if I have any further problems.

Thanks for the help again![8D]