Throttle and steering control
12-21-2006, 12:03 PM
#4
RE: Throttle and steering control
For throttle I use 1/32 cable (flexible). Flow some solder into the cable before you cut it.
With a clevise on each end.
For nose gear I try to use a more solid wire like 1/16th welding wire.
I use the cable for the throttle because if you have a premature impact the cable will give and not try to wrench the carb off the motor. Learned that one the hard way from combat.
With a clevise on each end.For nose gear I try to use a more solid wire like 1/16th welding wire.
I use the cable for the throttle because if you have a premature impact the cable will give and not try to wrench the carb off the motor. Learned that one the hard way from combat.
12-21-2006, 12:34 PM
#5
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RE: Throttle and steering control
I use screw lock pushrod connectors at the servo, a flex cable in an inner nyrod and a ball link at the throttle arm. This setup allows fine adjustment to avoid stalled servos. If you don't have clearance between the firewall and throttle arm make a U turn in the cable, flow solder into the U and come back to the throttle arm. Works for me.
12-21-2006, 01:28 PM
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RE: Throttle and steering control
I always try to put in a strain relieve. I turn one of the rods 360 degrees into a circle about 5/8 inch diameter. This way the servo gets some protection in a hard landing/crash.
12-21-2006, 01:56 PM
#7
RE: Throttle and steering control
I prefer a rigid music wire if I can get the servo close enough. Flexible if I have to work around the fuel tank, and I like to use a torque-rod direct to the rudder (with spruce bedded in to take the stress) or else just caster the tailwheel. If I'm doing a nose wheel it's the same as with the throttle. Prefer rigid wire, but will use Gold-n-Rod or -Wire is necessary.
I usually put a "Z" bend on the engine end of the throttle linkage as that never vibrates apart and gives the most clearance (firewall, cowl & mount) and put the clevis on the servo end.
I usually put a "Z" bend on the engine end of the throttle linkage as that never vibrates apart and gives the most clearance (firewall, cowl & mount) and put the clevis on the servo end.
12-22-2006, 07:30 AM
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RE: Throttle and steering control
Flex cable. I use an EZ connector on the servo end and a nylon clevis on the carb end. You can buy solder-on threaded ends to allow using a threaded clevis. For steering, I use the EZ connector at both ends. The adjustment necessary is not all that precise.
Dr.1
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12-22-2006, 08:31 AM
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RE: Throttle and steering control
I tried using a flexible cable for the throttle, and was unimpressed when I had trouble on some occassions getting the throttle to fully open. Now I always use 2-56 push rods with a screw on clevis at the throttle end, and the screw lock connectors on the servo. I also put two 90 degree bends somewhere in the linkage to absorb the shock of inadvertent impact as an added protection for the servo.
As for steering, if I have a nose gear, I use a 4-40 push rod, since I don't want it bending when I'm trying to steer on take off. But I prefer tail draggers. Then I don't have to worry about it. I just put a skid or tail wheel attached to the rudder.
Brad
As for steering, if I have a nose gear, I use a 4-40 push rod, since I don't want it bending when I'm trying to steer on take off. But I prefer tail draggers. Then I don't have to worry about it. I just put a skid or tail wheel attached to the rudder.
Brad
