Paint Compatability
#3
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Paint Compatability
Nitrowoman,
Here's my two cents worth: Polyurethane is an acceptable overcoat for bu. and ni. dopes. However, you need to test to be sure that the THINNERS used in your top coat don't have a adverse effect on the base coat. If you shoot the poly with a gun and are using a low grade thinner, then no problem. Another thing to consider is to let the base coat "cure" before top coating. That improves the chances for success. If you can place your nose against the base coat , sniff, and smell the thinner, it hasn't cured. I think you'll find butyrate is the perferred color coat material. The old rule of thumb is to let the base coat cure for 30 days prior to to top coat. Of course a great deal depends on temp and humidity. For future reference:
Compatable overcoats for Butyrate are, acrylic enamel, acrylic lacquer, alktd enamel. duPont 30S, epoxy enamel, DAP spakle, and more butyrate dope.
Additionally, nitrate is not fuel proof, so you'll need to top coat it with a fuelproof clear. Please note, nitrate can't be applied over buterate. But, it can be used as an undercoat for buteyrate. You might also want to, in the future pick up a can of Red Devil Polyrethane clear and give it a test. It's resonably priced and available at hardware stores. It will yellow with age, but as far as I know, all poly's do. Finally, if you enjoy working with dope, check-in with the folks at SIG. They ought to be able to supply you with materials and knowledge. Their catalog has a pretty good discussion. Phone: 515/623-5154. Good luck, Ddubya
P.S. If you are running nore than 5 or 10% nitro, as your handle might suggest, you'll really need to test whatever coating you plan to use to assure that it's fuel proof to your nitro content.
Here's my two cents worth: Polyurethane is an acceptable overcoat for bu. and ni. dopes. However, you need to test to be sure that the THINNERS used in your top coat don't have a adverse effect on the base coat. If you shoot the poly with a gun and are using a low grade thinner, then no problem. Another thing to consider is to let the base coat "cure" before top coating. That improves the chances for success. If you can place your nose against the base coat , sniff, and smell the thinner, it hasn't cured. I think you'll find butyrate is the perferred color coat material. The old rule of thumb is to let the base coat cure for 30 days prior to to top coat. Of course a great deal depends on temp and humidity. For future reference:
Compatable overcoats for Butyrate are, acrylic enamel, acrylic lacquer, alktd enamel. duPont 30S, epoxy enamel, DAP spakle, and more butyrate dope.
Additionally, nitrate is not fuel proof, so you'll need to top coat it with a fuelproof clear. Please note, nitrate can't be applied over buterate. But, it can be used as an undercoat for buteyrate. You might also want to, in the future pick up a can of Red Devil Polyrethane clear and give it a test. It's resonably priced and available at hardware stores. It will yellow with age, but as far as I know, all poly's do. Finally, if you enjoy working with dope, check-in with the folks at SIG. They ought to be able to supply you with materials and knowledge. Their catalog has a pretty good discussion. Phone: 515/623-5154. Good luck, Ddubya
P.S. If you are running nore than 5 or 10% nitro, as your handle might suggest, you'll really need to test whatever coating you plan to use to assure that it's fuel proof to your nitro content.
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RE: Thanks
Ok. here is a question. You asked if poly u over dope . But what if a guy was to use poly u and dope on the same project ( to get the best colors )and everything at this point is ok. (because they were kept seperate) But now I want to complete by putting a butyrate clear cot over the whole plane . Wil the butyrate stick to the poly u (lustre kote) or willl it eat it ? Any ideas?