SVX

A while back I read an article in some magazine of a process that involved laying down a type of
glue on the sheeting and the structure, letting it dry. Then place the sheeting over the structure
and use a hair dryer to warm the glue and it will instantly stick. I can't find the magazine now
and would like to give this process a shot. Anyone know of the glue they used? Or what I am
talking about?

saramos

I use a covering iron to attach skins to frames using alphatic resin (Original Titebond). It'll work with PVA glues too. (carpenter's glue). I've never tried using a hair drier/heat gun to do it.

Scott

aerowoof

you ned to be careful of the thickness of the sheeting .too thick and enouch heat will not tranfer to bond the glue.pva Polyvinyl acetate glue is used

aerowoof

Iron On Veneer / PVA Glue Method

An alternative to using contact cement when traditional press methods aren’t available is this method using white or yellow PVA glue and a standard household iron. This process will help you achieve a better glue bond and allows for the use of 10 mil paperbacked or raw veneer which can save you money. Follow these steps for best results.

Surface Preparation
The surface or substrate you are veneering must be clean and flat. MDF, particle board or cabinet grade plywood are all satisfactory substrates. If applying veneer over a hardwood substrate, be sure all finish is removed and repair any gouges or scratches that might telegraph through the new veneer. It is not advisable to veneer over old veneer as the heat and moisture generated in this process may actually cause the old veneer to delaminate.

Glue Application
You can use either white glue or yellow woodworking glue. It is recommended when you use yellow woodworking glue to thin it with 10% water to allow easier spreading as it can be very thick. With a brush or roller coat the back of the veneer and the substrate with glue. If you are rolling the glue a foam roller applicator works well. In almost all cases you should apply two coats of glue to the substrate because some of the first coat will soak into the surface. Be very careful not to get any glue on the face of the veneer as this will surely be a problem during the finishing process. Once applied, allow the glue to dry to the touch. The yellow glue will probably dry quicker but as a general rule, wait 20 to 30 minutes. An important thing to remember is to apply even, thin coats of glue. Generally speaking, you want to end up with approximately 6 to 8 mils ( 1 mil = 1/1000” ) of glue thickness.

Ironing Veneer to Substrate
Place the veneer on the substrate and position accordingly. Unlike contact cement which bonds on contact, the veneer can be allowed to make contact with the substrate while positioning. Use a lightweight cotton material between the veneer and the face of the iron. An old bed sheet or cotton t-shirt work well for this purpose. With your iron set on a high heat setting, begin to iron the veneer from the center out using a slow and deliberate pace. The cloth should prevent the hot iron from scorching the face of the veneer. Keep moderate downward pressure on the iron as you move it across the surface. Make sure you have covered every square inch of surface and examine the veneer for any loose spots that may not be bonded. If there are any areas that appear as though they aren’t bonded to the substrate, just go back over them with the iron. Allow this assembly to cool for 2 hours before trimming the veneer to finished size. Allow 24 hours for glue to fully cure before doing any finishing.

SVX

Thats it, Thank you

saramos

I've used this method only with 1/16" sheeting, though I've heard of people using it with 3/32" as well.

Scott

SVX

What a slick method that is. My first time and I was really wondering if it was going to work after the glue had dried. Don'y know how strong the bond is but I am impressed.

sebo

Has anyone tried Sourgum. I believe Dave Brown carries it.
I used it to sheet foam floats. it worked good on them. The tricky part there is that you only get one chance of positioning it. Once down, it is there forever.

John Sohm

My Feedback: (9)

I don't think I would try the "heat PVA with iron" method on anything other than an open frame structure. Using it on foam would make what is usually already heavier even more so. I'm not too worried about the foam melting or deforming so much as all the little nooks and crannies of the foam loading up with a glue that is on the heavy side to start. I've used Dave Brown's Sorghum before, basically a latex type of contact glue you brush on, let dry and then press together. I still think the best method I've used for foam is 3M 77 spray on adhesive which is a similar process to Sorghum but in a spray can. That stuff doesn't give up the ghost and separate at all if done correctly. For wooden structures I still like either Titebond (applied the traditional way, wet) and pinned or weighted down or SloZap with pins or weights or both. But to each his own, whatever method floats your boat and doesn't present a self destructing hazard is fine in my book. It's great to be able to experiment with different methods.