caveman 159

Hi all; i have been wanting to build for a while, and have been working on a fun 51. I have been using a glass table top, and this is nice and flat, but its a hassle not being able to pin down the work. My question,(and i did search) is what do you guys use to build on.
A description of how to build a good table would be nice, and how durable it is. I cant afford the magnetic system i have read about.
Any replies would be very much appreciated as i have 4 kits waiting for some attention. Thanks, George

waterloged

I use a solid core door and a sheet of celing tile on it. seems to work good. I put my own legs and some runners under the door.
Good luck

Alex7403

Hello George,
I’m building on a simple board. 36� X 16� X 3/4� so far so good.

The board is flat, means no “belly� in the middle, other wise all you build will be concaved.
Its soft wood, so you can stick pins in it with no effort.
The size of the board can accommodate the part you are building.
The board is smooth and straight.
If the board is not straight and flat everything you build on it will have the same curvature.
I put the plans and a wax paper on them held by pins on the side.

I got mine from towerhobbies, but it doesn’t have to be…
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXVZ63&P=7

good luck
Alex

somegeek

My Feedback: (2)

I use a ceiling tile secured to a piece of MDF and set it on a folding table. The tile warped after sitting in my garage between builds so I had to tape it down to assure it lay flat.



somegeek

Don41

I've used sheet rock ever since I started building planes (more years than I care to remember). Just lay it on the existing table without attaching it. Once it gets too full of pin holes, knife cuts, etc it's simple enough to just drop on a replacement.

acarter

my table is fairly simple just 2*4's and ply the 2*4's keep the table warp free, i use foam for the t pins and wax so the glue doesn't stick

garyo1954

[X(] I have to admit the solid core door. It's become known as Gary's work table. So anything and everything that needs glue, solder, or fixing ends up there. And the drafting table on the opposite side holds my (the important) stuff.

I use sheetrock to protect the surface too.

Word of warning, if you call it a work table, don't be surprised when the other half finds work to put on it. So cover it with clutter and say you are straightening up.

SMUGator

I build exclusively on glass. I find that a dab of thin CA makes a nice "pin" that can easily be popped off later. I use white china markers to outline my center/spar lines and rib/former locations.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=5853620


Tom

caveman 159

Thanks everyone. I had not thought about sheetrock. Also a good tip on the "cover it up so little Mama wont ad to it" . I was using a desk i had, but it has developed a bow, so i switched to a sheet of thick table top glass. Think i will get some sheetrock and ad to my table top. Might try the "glue it down to the glass" later as my skills progress, am a perfectionist so i make things harder than they have to be sometimes! Thanks again, and good luck to you all on your projects!! George

spiral_72

I bought a couple cheap framed cork boards from the local *mart. I removed the frame and used that on a table. If you dedicate a table you can bond the cork to the top and use it indefinately.

I'm sure you can buy cork sheets too.

saramos

I use a steel topped build table and use magnets.

Scott

rustypep

My Feedback: (6)

I used solid core doors as well. I have a large balsa building board that I got from Hobby Lobby to do the fuses. I mounted metal shelving brackets to the back to help hold it true but it is screwed together so I can flip it when necessary. I cut up an extra solid core door up into three smaller sections with ceiling tile on top and use those to frame up wing panels, tail sections, etc. The mass of the solid core keeps things from moving around. I have not had any warps so far (2-3 years). I eventually want to go with some magnets when I starting building some larger stuff but right now this works just fine. The best hobby pins are sold by Hobby Lobby. They are thin and have finger holds and don't split the wood like regular T pins.

When I glue the wing panels to the center section I just CA (tack glue) the jigs to the door/table and then the same with the wing panels to the jigs and when done it comes right up and anything left can easily be sanded away. I find more and more uses for that technique even on a solid core door.

sscherin

My Feedback: (1)

I have a 5' kitchen island counter top I got from the Habitat for Humanity ReStore for $15
It sits on the B&D workmate..
For pinning I used to use ceiling tiles.
I haven't decided f I'll use them on the next build or try sheet rock.

Lately for flat builds I've been taping the parts to a copy of the plans with gift wrap scotch tape.
It pulls off without ripping the paper.

To keep the parts from sticking to the table or plans I've been carving up ziplock bags into squares to use as a clear backing.
CA epoxy and Tightbond wont stick to it.

For cutting I have a self healing cuting mat from the fabric store and a small $2 kitchen cutting board I use the zona saw on.

Don41

I use the roll of clear plastic wrap instead. Sometimes I wrap it around my fingers while working in tight quarters with thin CA. Sorry I can't remember the name of the stuff. It's easy to come by,,, I take it from the kitchen drawer in the middle of the night while my wife sleeps (:-).

MinnFlyer

My Feedback: (4)

I'm another one that doesn't use pins. I just can't see putting little holes in everything.

I just use weights to hold everything down. A long level makes a great weight for long, straight areas. And a (Clean) sock filled with rice or beans is great for odd shapes

RVman

This is mine, MDF torsion box table and a sheet of drywall on top (accepts pins, cheap, and stays flat). It's 6' by 2 1/2', should stay flat for years and cost about $100. Pic was taken just after I put in in the basement, it's nicely cluttered now.

sscherin

My Feedback: (1)

RVman.. the Torsion box is a great setup and cheep to build.
I built one to hold a 160lb TV 2 years ago.. The shelf spans a 40" opening with the only support on the sides and back.
It's 1/2" MDF skin on a 1x4 pine grid. It still checks dead flat with a straight edge.

The other other guys here's a good article on how to build one.
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/shows_..._26946,00.html

WhiteRook

My Feedback: (38)

i might try A GRIZZLY maple top table for my next building surface, you can also buy
leg sets for them . they come in different lenghts from 36 - 120 inches and are 1 3/4
thick maple

grizzly.com