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best glue for, Wood to fiberglass bond?

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best glue for, Wood to fiberglass bond?

Old 10-13-2007, 10:01 PM
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763ersma27
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Default best glue for, Wood to fiberglass bond?

Im building a .40 cessna, and ther fuse is fiberglass, and the rudder, and elevator are basla, what is the best glue to bond this?

Someone said CA is best,

also heard gerilla gule?

or jsut use normal 15 min epoxe?

Thanks so much
Old 10-13-2007, 11:01 PM
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broke_n_bummin
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Default RE: best glue for, Wood to fiberglass bond?

I would have to say Epoxy or monkey glue. CA will stick it, but it won't hold long. CA is good for hinges and predrilled screw holes, but I wouldn't trust it on much more than that.
Old 10-14-2007, 02:23 AM
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Default RE: best glue for, Wood to fiberglass bond?

G'day Mate,
The best glue for fibreglass, is Polyester resin, that is the resin used with fiber glass. Like they use to make surfboards & boats.
Epoxy won't stick as well to true fiberglass, but polyester resin will.
Unless of course it is epoxy with fibre glass cloth in it, it pays to be sure.
Old 10-14-2007, 02:34 AM
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Default RE: best glue for, Wood to fiberglass bond?

Polyurethane glue (Gorilla Glue) works well for bonding dissimilar materials. You do have to be mindful of its' foaming expansion, and make sure it doesn't move parts or foam into joints and areas where you don't want it to be. I've used it successfully to attach vertical and horizontal stablizers on all wood kits, and to attach fiberglass skins to balsa structure.

Scott
Old 10-14-2007, 07:08 AM
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da Rock
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Default RE: best glue for, Wood to fiberglass bond?

The problem with using polyester resin on something that looks like a fiberglass part is that the part may have been laid up with either polyester resin or epoxy resin. What we all call fiberglass can be built with either of the two resins, and that causes problems with repairs or attempts to glue something to the part.

Epoxy will adhere to polyester resin, but polyester doesn't stick to epoxy.

I very often layer more glass cloth into the cowlings that come in the chinese ARFs I've been assembling since getting back into the hobby awhile back. I've been using a couple of different 30min epoxies. That way, if by the wildest chance the part were laid up with epoxy (polyester is dirt cheap) but is very probably polyester resin, I know the resin is going to stick. And it does. Excellently well.

Once upon a time, the glasscloth used for layups was prepped with a chemical that gave polyester resin a good grip on the glass and epoxy would not grip. Nowadays, the cloth used with epoxy is prepped for epoxy or for both. And all the cloth I've bought in the last 15 years has worked with the epoxies I've bought perfectly. Now that LHSs sell cloth and resins, you can bet the cloth sold is going to work with the resins sold. And all the LHSs I've been in actually weren't selling almost any polyester resin. So it's an even better bet that epoxy is going to work with their cloth.

Also, a number of the thicker CAs have some interesting reading on their labels. Worth reading.
Old 10-14-2007, 07:59 AM
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763ersma27
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Default RE: best glue for, Wood to fiberglass bond?

Thanks guys, im not sure what resin its made with, its painted white from the factory. should i scrape some of the paint off beofre glueing?
Old 10-14-2007, 09:15 AM
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da Rock
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Default RE: best glue for, Wood to fiberglass bond?


ORIGINAL: 763ersma27

Thanks guys, im not sure what resin its made with, its painted white from the factory. should i scrape some of the paint off beofre glueing?
Few of us can tell what resin was used. Basically, an epoxy layup will have more flex while polyester resin layups are more brittle. But it's really hard to tell.

And the exterior color might not be paint. It might be a layer of whatever resin is being used with color in it. And just because it appears to be flaking doesn't tell you that it's paint. Some of the best looking pieces (when you open the box) will eggshell like crazy with the first hard landing and flake like they're painted with the wrong type paint, and actually be resin through and (almost) through.

If it is painted, and the paint is sticking good enough, then scraping wouldn't be worth the effort. However, it's always good to sand any shiny finish. It insures the removal of at least some oils and release agents, and gives the glue something more to stick to.

It's common practice (because it's often cheaper to do) for mass produced parts to be made in a female mould. They spray a release agent, let it dry. Paint in a colored coating of resin and then lay in at least one layer of cloth. They then should paint in another coat of resin. Sometimes they do more layers of cloth and resin. There are lots of ways to screw up all that work, but it's still lots quicker and cheaper to do it all at one time.

BTW, when your fiberglass part shows cracks that go to the cloth, and the cloth looks dry under the cracking, you're seeing a very common problem with mass produced parts. They did not get the cloth into the first coat of resin before the resin had started to stiffen. How often have you seen just that in the last couple of years?

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