N1061D

I recently was given an O.S. 40 FP engine @ 1985 engine,that was never installed on a plane but,only bench tested.It has been setting up the last 20 + years but is not frozen.
The throttle/carb is stuck though,and my question is......would it be worth the effort/money to replace the carb assembly and/or possibly convert/relocate the needle valve to the rear like the LA??I know these engines are not the most expensive but I hate to just throw it away.Any help or input/opinions is greatly appreciated.

macdona

My Feedback: (3)

I have had luck soaking the carb in yield or carburator cleaner and a little wd40. Good luck.

fredscz

My Feedback: (47)

DO not force it to move. Beware of carb cleaner as some of them can destroy the plastic parts. The carb is very simple but if the passages are gummed up you may need to carefully take it apart and clean it . Heat from your monocoat heat gun or a good hairdryer would probably free it up, then a good soaking in fuel might be enough.
Fred

frenchie79

Can you take it apart and give it a good cleaning. I have two older ones also, one is brand new-bought a Auction. The one I'm using runs real well. I wouldn't toss them.

Teachu2

My Feedback: (133)

Those are one of my favorite engines. Try WD-40, saturate it and let it soak. Don't relocate the needle valve - they are easier to tune and much more dependable in the original configuration. Here near sea level, they run best if you simply remove the air bleed adjustment screw after breakin. Did you get the owner's manual?

aerowoof

soak it in alchohol for a while and if that does not free it up remove the o ring from the base and heat it with a heat gun or put it in an oven on that is cooling down (200 degrees f) the heat will loosen up any congealed oil plus expand the aluminum housing to help the stell barrel rotate.

acarter

WD-40, The best stuff out there

bassfisher

My Feedback: (21)

This tip is from a lot of experience in getting old crud out of carbs, engines, etc. I just got a 40 FP that had sat up for 15 years running again, and it was terrible, you couldn't turn the engine over. (that and 10 other engines that had sat up for that time). Take the carb off the engine, put it into a cup of model fuel and let it sit up overnight. I use old fuel that I keep in a spare fuel bottle. If you can't get the carb off (this happens when you start to strip the screws that hold the carb on), put some fuel on top of the barrel and let it sit up overnight. The next day, take you time and gradually put pressure on the carb arm where the push rod connects. Don't try to muscle it open, just a little back and forth rocking. If you can get the barrel open even a little, use a small jewelers screwdriver to carefully help assisting it open. Usually, once you can break through the crud, the barrel will become free. Put a little more fuel in the barrel opening and keep working it. It will work as good as new. I've also used the heat gun to help out on really tough ones, but usually a good overnight dip in model fuel will work. Don't use gasoline or 3-in-1 oil. Both are bad news for glow fuel engines. The gasoline will eat through your o-rings and 3-in-1 oil doesn't burn if it gets inside the engine.

N1061D

Thanks for everyones' input and suggestions.I will give it a try and see if I can get this engine into service.I will update with the results.Thanks again.