How to fiberglass?
#1
Thread Starter
How to fiberglass?
Hello,
I am wanting to do some fiberglass work to the firwall of one of my airplanes since everybody claims that they do it to theirs. I was wondering what materials I needed, how do I actually do it, and if anyone knows where to find some good reading material. Appreciate any help!
I am wanting to do some fiberglass work to the firwall of one of my airplanes since everybody claims that they do it to theirs. I was wondering what materials I needed, how do I actually do it, and if anyone knows where to find some good reading material. Appreciate any help!
#2
Senior Member
RE: How to fiberglass?
You can get fiberglass cloth from any hobby store or online at places like Tower Hobbies. I like to use finishing epoxy for the resin since it cures in a reasonable amount of time, it's brushable and is fuel proof. Just coat the area you want to glass with epoxy, lay down the cloth then brush a little more epoxy on it. Make sure to really push the epoxy through the weave and that the cloth is laid down flat on the wood. You can lightly sand and add more coats of epoxy to obtain a smooth finish if you want.
#3
My Feedback: (1)
RE: How to fiberglass?
Fairly basic and pretty easy, but can get messy the first couple of times you try. Experiment on a scrap to see what it's like first.
You need: finishing resin (2-part, just like epoxy, but much thinner), or for small jobs, I have used 30 or 45 minute epoxy.
Fiberglass cloth. Comes by weight. 1/2 oz means it weighs 1/2 oz/sq. yard. If you're reinforcing a small to medium sized plane firewall (say .40 to .90 size) I'd use 3/4 oz.
Mixing "bowl" anything disposable, unless it's made of something like PETE plastic, that epoxy won't bond to. You want the container big enough that the resin can spread out. If it gets too deep it will set faster.
Disposable brushes to spread the resin. I use the kind you get at Lowe's for solder flux.
SHARP pair of scissors to cut the material.
Start by measuring the area you want to glass and cut the material slightly larger. For a firewall, allow the cloth to run an inch or so onto the sides of the fuse (inside).
Mix your resin, usually 50-50, thoroughly; brush it onto the area, going further than the piece of material will cover. Doesn't have to be a heavy enough coat to run. now take the piece of cloth, lay it onto the area. Start from the center and carefully press it into the resin , using the brush (kind of dab it), and work your way to the sides and corners. It should impregnate with resin and lie flat; work out air bubbles with the brush, but use light pressure. If you press too hard as you brush, the cloth will slide in the resin, you'll start getting bubbles and wrinkles and pissed off that it won't stay still. Once it's in place and the resin has penetrated the cloth, leave it to set. The resin I use has a workable time of about 30-40 minutes depending on the room temp and how much you've mixed. It will set to sticky in about an hour and a half, and is dry to touch in about three hours. Full cure takes a day. You can wait til it' tacky and apply another layer if you want, or if you've put down a thick enough coat the first time, you can try a second layer. For strength, lay the second piece with the weave at 45 degrees to the first.
Takes a couple of times to get used to handling it, but you'll get it.
You need: finishing resin (2-part, just like epoxy, but much thinner), or for small jobs, I have used 30 or 45 minute epoxy.
Fiberglass cloth. Comes by weight. 1/2 oz means it weighs 1/2 oz/sq. yard. If you're reinforcing a small to medium sized plane firewall (say .40 to .90 size) I'd use 3/4 oz.
Mixing "bowl" anything disposable, unless it's made of something like PETE plastic, that epoxy won't bond to. You want the container big enough that the resin can spread out. If it gets too deep it will set faster.
Disposable brushes to spread the resin. I use the kind you get at Lowe's for solder flux.
SHARP pair of scissors to cut the material.
Start by measuring the area you want to glass and cut the material slightly larger. For a firewall, allow the cloth to run an inch or so onto the sides of the fuse (inside).
Mix your resin, usually 50-50, thoroughly; brush it onto the area, going further than the piece of material will cover. Doesn't have to be a heavy enough coat to run. now take the piece of cloth, lay it onto the area. Start from the center and carefully press it into the resin , using the brush (kind of dab it), and work your way to the sides and corners. It should impregnate with resin and lie flat; work out air bubbles with the brush, but use light pressure. If you press too hard as you brush, the cloth will slide in the resin, you'll start getting bubbles and wrinkles and pissed off that it won't stay still. Once it's in place and the resin has penetrated the cloth, leave it to set. The resin I use has a workable time of about 30-40 minutes depending on the room temp and how much you've mixed. It will set to sticky in about an hour and a half, and is dry to touch in about three hours. Full cure takes a day. You can wait til it' tacky and apply another layer if you want, or if you've put down a thick enough coat the first time, you can try a second layer. For strength, lay the second piece with the weave at 45 degrees to the first.
Takes a couple of times to get used to handling it, but you'll get it.