bezerkkk-RCU

I have a g2300 that has low compression. should i replace the ring? liner? piston? some? all?

housedad

ring and liner for sure, BUT




If the engine is worn enough to fail compression, then other parts may be well worn out. Complete dissassembly, condition inspection and measuring for wear would be called for, IMHO.

Also, get a compression tester. use it to keep a record of the compression of your engines over time.

bezerkkk-RCU

bought it used somewhere about 2-3 years ago. really cheap like 25 or 30 bucks. it is very clean outside, havent looked inside yet, but feels weak spinning the prop. was just wondering if a ring swap would work? thanks for the info.

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

A ring swap could work if it's getting worn. Have you run it yet? If not, why not run it with some standard props and then go to the Tachometer forum to compare? A dry engine thats been sitting around for a couple years could easily feel low on compression. There is no oil to help seal the ring to the cylinder. Ringed engines don't usually have that same tight pinch that is associated with an ABC engine. It should have some compression, but it shouldn't feel as tight as an ABC engine. I'd run it first, if you haven't done so already.

If you decide to replace the ring, it is not necessarily required that you replace the liner. Sometimes the liner is fine and only the ring needs to be replaced. The ring is the part that is designed to wear and it is not uncommon for it to need replacing after many hours of use. The liner is usually not hurt at all, unless the engine has been abused or mistreated.

But you will need to inspect the liner. You need to be sure that it still has solid chrome plating on all the surfaces. You also need to check it for roundness with a set of calipers. Once you determine the liner is still usable, then you'll need to knock the old glaze off the liner before installing the new ring. If you neglect to clean up the liner before installing the new ring--you've just wasted your money.

bezerkkk-RCU

havent ran it yet. feels like it is too weak to idle and i dont want to try it as is because i will attempt to run it as is and risk tearing up a plane. how do you clean the liner?

Rcpilot

My Feedback: (78)

Put it on a test bench with a couple different props ranging in size from 15-10, 16-8, 16-10, 17-8

There is no need to tear up a plane or risk a plane. Put it on a test bench. You can slap one together in an hour with a few 2x4s and a table.

Running a motor with a brand new ring and liner is just as risky as running an unknown/used engine. Either way -- your risking the plane if you don't run the engine on a test stand for at least a couple tanks to sort it out. New engines flame out and die all the time, so replacing the ring and liner isn't any guarantee that it will run long enough to land the plane. Same risk as running it as is now.

Put it on a test stand and at least fire it up before you tear it apart and buy parts for it. You might be surprised how much compression it has after it gets a little oil and fuel in the cylinder. Again, dry engines won't have much compression.

Take the glow plug out and squirt 5 or 6 drops of any oil down the hole. 3 & 1 oil or sewing machine oil or air tool lubricating oil would be best, but you're not going to kill it by putting regular old motor oil down the hole. Even kitchen cooking oil will work. Now turn it over. Big difference in compression.

buzzingb

My Feedback: (2)

The 2300 has a steel liner and may not be worn. I would run it and see how it runs first then try ring and bearings if it doesn't pull a 17X6 close to 9000. You should be able to tell if the liner is scratchet, worn etc. by looking.

buzzingb

My Feedback: (2)

The 2300 is built to run a lifetime with just a few parts (ring, bearings) from time to time. Usually no need to replance piston or liner unless something out of the ordinary goes wrong. This is unlike many other engines with liners that peel and pistons that wear out. The 23 is one tough cookie with plenty of power.