using drug store castor oil?
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using drug store castor oil?
I couldn't find anything on t his subject so I thought I'd ask. Is it ok to use drug store castor oil as an additive in glow fuel? I've been adding 2oz castor to a gallon of Morgan 15% and I was wondering if it was doing any good or harm? I am getting burn marks around the muffler that I didn't get before so I know it's burning it up.
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RE: using drug store castor oil?
burn marks??? Like it's shooting flames? That's not from the castor. I have used Bakers Castor before, but not for any extended amount of time. If you're only putting 2 oz in a gallon of fuel that already has a castor / synth blend, I'd think that it would be ok. It doesn't have the additives that hobby store castor has, but the castor oil itself is the same. Just make sure t's mixed up real good.
Castor will stain the aluminum when it gets hot (even the hobby store castor)and it will leave a brown residue. There's not a whole lot that can be done to prevent that. But on the up side, it will let you know if you have an exhaust leak or if your head is leaking
If it's doing any good or not depends on your engine. Most of the time, it's helping. The castor coats your bearrings, and glazes your cylinder wall making a toghter fir to the piston and more compression. some ringed engines, however don't like this because it builds up under the ring and in the gap. Super Tigre recommends straight synth oil in some of their engines.
... And not all oil burns up. Look at the side of your fuse or the wing after flying ...
Castor will stain the aluminum when it gets hot (even the hobby store castor)and it will leave a brown residue. There's not a whole lot that can be done to prevent that. But on the up side, it will let you know if you have an exhaust leak or if your head is leaking
If it's doing any good or not depends on your engine. Most of the time, it's helping. The castor coats your bearrings, and glazes your cylinder wall making a toghter fir to the piston and more compression. some ringed engines, however don't like this because it builds up under the ring and in the gap. Super Tigre recommends straight synth oil in some of their engines.
... And not all oil burns up. Look at the side of your fuse or the wing after flying ...
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RE: using drug store castor oil?
Why not use morgan omega 15%? It has the proper castor. I have not had a bearing problem in any of my 4s engines since using the omega.
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RE: using drug store castor oil?
co-worker and I were joking about the idea of getting some and using on our weedeaters in place of the oil just for the smell. i had never seen it sold in either hobby store or drug store here.
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RE: using drug store castor oil?
ORIGINAL: carlosponti
co-worker and I were joking about the idea of getting some and using on our weedeaters in place of the oil just for the smell. i had never seen it sold in either hobby store or drug store here.
co-worker and I were joking about the idea of getting some and using on our weedeaters in place of the oil just for the smell. i had never seen it sold in either hobby store or drug store here.
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RE: using drug store castor oil?
I use drug store castor breaking in 1/2a engines. Just to bring the 15% omega's content up to 20% total. Works fine, cheap for the amount I need (not much, they're <1cc engines).
The "burn marks" you're seeing is varnished castor. You'll see it on any engine running castor or castor blend oils, if it's run hard enough. For the first year I had my LA25 on my trainer, it got no varnish on it. Mostly learning flights, putting around under 3/4 throttle. The last couple years, the engine's been more carefully leaned and runs wide open most of the flight. There's plenty of varnish now. It's running plain, unadulterated 15% omega, which is 18% total oil, 80% synth, 20% castor.
Drug store castor works fine. Compared to what you'd pay at a speed shop or hobby dealer for larger (quart) quantities of racing castor, it's expensive. But if you only need a couple ounces, it may be a handy thing to pick up. Hell, it's only 3 or 4 bucks for the little bottle.
That said, outside of iron piston or 1/2a size engines, I don't know why you'd bother. If you want a bit of castor, just start with a castor/synth blend fuel (Omega or equals). On any "common" size modern engine, there's not gonna be any real benefit, unless you insist on leaning the engine all the way to peak. Fly with it riched 200rpm or so below peak and your engine will die in an impact long before it dies from wear.
If your interested (since someone brought it up) Castor oil is made from castor beans. Ricin is a poison made from castor beans. The ricin is in the bean solids, not in the oil. The oil is entirely non-toxic, and is used as a laxitive (operating solely on its lubricating properties). Ricin, refined from the remains after the oil is pressed out, is one of the most deadly poisons going. Google Georgi Markov. And if you can get castor beans, from what I've read, it doesn't take a genious to get it out. Actually, I think it takes a dumbass.
J
The "burn marks" you're seeing is varnished castor. You'll see it on any engine running castor or castor blend oils, if it's run hard enough. For the first year I had my LA25 on my trainer, it got no varnish on it. Mostly learning flights, putting around under 3/4 throttle. The last couple years, the engine's been more carefully leaned and runs wide open most of the flight. There's plenty of varnish now. It's running plain, unadulterated 15% omega, which is 18% total oil, 80% synth, 20% castor.
Drug store castor works fine. Compared to what you'd pay at a speed shop or hobby dealer for larger (quart) quantities of racing castor, it's expensive. But if you only need a couple ounces, it may be a handy thing to pick up. Hell, it's only 3 or 4 bucks for the little bottle.
That said, outside of iron piston or 1/2a size engines, I don't know why you'd bother. If you want a bit of castor, just start with a castor/synth blend fuel (Omega or equals). On any "common" size modern engine, there's not gonna be any real benefit, unless you insist on leaning the engine all the way to peak. Fly with it riched 200rpm or so below peak and your engine will die in an impact long before it dies from wear.
If your interested (since someone brought it up) Castor oil is made from castor beans. Ricin is a poison made from castor beans. The ricin is in the bean solids, not in the oil. The oil is entirely non-toxic, and is used as a laxitive (operating solely on its lubricating properties). Ricin, refined from the remains after the oil is pressed out, is one of the most deadly poisons going. Google Georgi Markov. And if you can get castor beans, from what I've read, it doesn't take a genious to get it out. Actually, I think it takes a dumbass.
J
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RE: using drug store castor oil?
ORIGINAL: expo
Look in the laxative section of the drug store. Did you know that castor beans are poisonous? This stuff doesn't smell good like the kind the mfg put in the bottle though.
ORIGINAL: carlosponti
co-worker and I were joking about the idea of getting some and using on our weedeaters in place of the oil just for the smell. i had never seen it sold in either hobby store or drug store here.
co-worker and I were joking about the idea of getting some and using on our weedeaters in place of the oil just for the smell. i had never seen it sold in either hobby store or drug store here.
ps posted the deal about ricin before noticing JBurry had already done so.
#10
RE: using drug store castor oil?
this thread is great timing for me. as someone noted most european engines do not use any nitro. i have a smaller moki engine (.61) that uses only 80/20 fuel. the oil has to be all castor oil. it looks like a motorcycle shop is where i need to go. would this be a dealership type of bike shop or a performance/race shop that would carry the methanol and klotz oil?
david
david
#11
RE: using drug store castor oil?
Drug store castor is not degummed so will generate more varnish than degummed castor like SIG.
#12
RE: using drug store castor oil?
Call Morgans fuel they can sell you castor oil, as well as oil with castor synthetic blend. Also try Fox Manufacturing. http://www.foxmanufacturing.com
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RE: using drug store castor oil?
The WW1 rotary engines used castor for lubricant as it wouldnt mix with the gasoline and thin it as mineral oil would. It was injected into the crankcase separate from the gas. Lost oil system where it went out of the engine with the exhaust. Must have been a trail from the plane to the 4 holer after a flight.
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RE: using drug store castor oil?
I use fuels that are part caster (Omega is one). Used to be nervous because articles in the magazines acted like all commercial fuels didn't contain enough oil, and also recommended breaking in engines with added caster. I quit worrying about all this nonsense, and I have wonderful success with my two cycle engines, and they last a long time. I am retired, and fly a lot, and my engines are lasting an incredably long time (they must make them better than they used to). I don't even use any after run oil when I'm through flying (although I do start the engines with the fuel line removed). I have no experience with 4 cycle or gas engines, but if you are talking about two stroke, relas and enjoy flying with commercially available fuel.
#17
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RE: using drug store castor oil?
S&W also sells castor by the quart and gallon. www.s-whobby.com Less expensive than Benol. Email Stanley for the price - castor is no longer listed on their fuel price list.