amdhotprocessor

My Feedback: (6)

OK I am mid build on a 96" BUHOR spad scale up, I am using a tartan 77 twin (50cc glow twin boxer)
the engine has been sitting in a droor for years and i bought it from a guy at the feild, for 150$
Its in great shape and the engine runs BUT.........\
It seems to run rough as a cob then it warms up.... ok
It actually has a decent idle after it tries to eat me.... ok..i guess..
I took the glow off and it sarted to run weak so i hit the glow to it again and it run fine.
so then I run it up to full bore, she runs gooood then i brought it back down and the indle was fine then i tried to give it throttle again and it just dont want to go to full throttle real laggylike . with adjustments it runs good but needs to be tuned to run at different rpm, I forgot already what direction the needles went and when but this sounds like mabey its starving for fuel? I want to say that it needed to go richer to achive rpm then leaned to sustain. And as i have no knowladge of the carb, I can only assume i found the right needle.

Its got a tillitson carb on it, for methanol
I mixed up some fuel for it today consisting of...128 oz methanol and 12.8 oz of Klotz BenOL caster race lube.
its turning a 20x8 wide blade apc @ APPROX. 9000 ish

So... ANYONE who knows these engines please help. Also any info or links on the car, engine or both ?

BTW this engine is DANGEROUS......1st, it backfired, my hand(glove on) on prop and it knocked me over(im a 240lb 24 yr old athletic type)
2nd It fired backwards an liked to eat my frien holding the plane safe...
3rd when it fired right ways it liked to have drug my buddy out of my driveway...

I really like this engine so far [>:]

The Ghost

The carb is probley gummed up from dried out fuel, The carb diaframs may also have gone hard.. The reads may also be a bit sticky. They are great running motors. I had one but was spark ign.

Cheers

amdhotprocessor

My Feedback: (6)

Ok so its a tillitson, any idea what walboro fits in its place for methanol? or how to on cleaning these types of carbs? i work with car carbs not weddy types,
thanks

Kimhoff

My Feedback: (22)

WT158

amdhotprocessor

My Feedback: (6)

ty!

Kimhoff

My Feedback: (22)

no problem

amdhotprocessor

My Feedback: (6)

so, mabey many ppl dont have any play time with the tartans, so, in reguards to big glows in general, What is the common ways to eliminate things like rough transitions through power band and finiky tuning, such as running wot good but not being able to return to wot after coming down in rpm without being tuned?
What would having the tank too far away cause as far as problems? too small of fuel line? what size need to be on this engine and how far from the tank can i be?

Where can I find GOOD info on onboard glow drivers or how too's on doing it myself. I have a twin remote glow system on it but I think having a onboard will help, but will it hurt my plugs?
I have been flying 46 61 and 100 size glows for a while, but this is my first "real engine" and I really want to do it right but it seems that any info on the tartan twin has been erased and is no longer available from the sources in which it was available.

Thanks all for any help

The Ghost

Can't help with tank or fuel lines, try and use the largest dia possiable and keep them as short as you can, position the tank as you would with any other glow engine. The onboard glow, use any of the commercially advailable ones, with correct power to the plug, usually under 1/3 throtal it will not hurt the plugs, have been using one on a Magnum 160 flat twin for years with the same plugs. Also does it have a velosity stack on the carby? may help.

Cheers

amdhotprocessor

My Feedback: (6)

no v stack just a yellow plastic "drag car hood scoop" typr thing on it, looks like a ram air almost

The Ghost

Thats right I forget about that.

Cheers

Kimhoff

My Feedback: (22)

AMD,

You proably have an air leak somewhere and or the carb needs to be dis-assy and cleaned and a new kit put in it.

amdhotprocessor

My Feedback: (6)

how would i identify the tillotson thats on it?
would a local lawn and garden equipthment repair shop rebuild the carby? or else is it worth buying a walbro to replace it. the local shop is 35 per hr plus parts, if its an hour to rebuild on and 15 buck in parts its worth just getting a NEW 60 dollar carby.

thanks again, I will look for some #s on the tillotson

Kimhoff

My Feedback: (22)

New carb and get a Walbroo. Take the hood scoop of and put on a V-stack.

amdhotprocessor

My Feedback: (6)

I was wondering why it would run ok, although bad transition, one day and tonight it will NOT run, wont prime nor will it even allow fuel to be pressurized up to the carb by blowing in to the vent line.

BTW where is the cheapest to find the walbro carb? v stack i can make myself on the lathe and/or mill.
any word on what type or reed that works well in this engine?

amdhotprocessor

My Feedback: (6)

ahhh. these little carbys arent as comlicated as i thought, after a thourough and very precicly reverse recording the dismantling of said carb.
i looked thru and found a bit of rust. from what im not sure because no parts were rusty but the was rust in there.
Anyway after looking in the diphram side cover i saw the D. was rock hard, turns out that the 31 cc ryobi diaphram that was on the engine that this one is replacing was IDENTICAL to the one in the tillitson,(diaphram is the little black sheet with metal coin like thing?)
anyway, I replaced that and found a little sludge in ther and some rtv that the previous owner left in it. The screw that held the pin for the needle pump arm was loose and so was the pin in it. the arm was bent and the ryobi one was level so i flatened it and assumed thats the way it should be., So I move on to the other side of the carb and pull that plate, more rust. :/ Well on firther notice there was a thin sheet thing with holes and 2 flappers cut out on it, and from dried castor, and rust and grit they were held open and slightly flexed away from the surface the were working on. these resembled tiny reeds like the large one under the carb. I carfully bent them to rest flat over the hole they looks as if ther were to cover. as i finished dissasymbly I looked carfully and was clearly able to define which needle was hi and lo end. turns out i was wrong in my assumtion that the hi was on top............transition probs?!?! lol

Well after a very thorough cleaning with the harshest chemicals known to sludge, the carb war reassymbled and set back to the last known needle settings.

So in a nutshell a novice to these carbs(me) openes up a tillotson having no idea whats what(me again) starts piddling around and bending and poking at things, using parts from random walbro carburettors and expects to make it work....(hmm)

This morning after my brother got done reloading rifle ammo for target shooting, we started the tartan up and ran it for a few minutes,
WOW, It now does the following, which it didnt do before(after tuning)
1, It primes
2 it starts.
3 it has a decent(needs a little more tuning) idle but loads up a wee fast.
4 pulls like a tractor, screams like a ferrarri.

It tuned well and responded well, transition is great and smooth, a little rich idle but better than lean i guess, turns an APC 20-8 wide at about 10k and i bleeding eardrum loud as crap with those little stumps
So I suppprissed myself, I got it running great, I got rid of the hood scoop and am designing a v stack for it, i might do a cnc program at school for it. I think i may stock up on those cheap little discs for the carby and go fly...

The Ghost

As I said on the first post. Only thing to look out for is that the diaphrams are sutiable for methonal, the rubber ones for gas will turn into mush with methonal. Take the old ones to a mower/chainsaw shop and get them mached up with a new set to keep for spairs as they only cost a few $

Cheers