fastplane

What rods are available that a 4-40 dye will cut threads on?
Hobby shop rods have rolled threads on one end and bare on rest of the rod. These type rods are too small to make threads with a dye.
So, measuring and cutting a rod for one purpose leaves the rest of the rod mostly useless.
If I could cut threads on both ends it would mean not having to solder one end for a clevis. Which wold be better I think.

cadmn

Most rods I get use 2-56 threads & can easily be cut with a die of that size & most all connections come in that size.

d_bodary

My Feedback: (85)

Go down to the local welding supply with your dies and look at the Tig welding wire. At one time someone used to sell a die for threading the welding rod. They may have advertised it in the High Flight magazine, maybe others as well.

krproton

I don't know where to get your wire, but 4-40 pushrods are .095" dia and 2-56 pushrods are .074" dia. I think you want to ask for "drill rod" because it's softer than piano wire (also called music wire). The wire K&S sells is music/piano wire. Drill rod is softer and can be threaded. I used to make my own flybars when I used to fly a GMP Cricket R/C helicopter, that's how I know about drill rod.

Ram Jet

See:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_79...tm.htm#7910957

I think these guys have it.

Bill

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

As already mentioned, our 2-56 and 4-40 pushrods that we buy from Tower or the hobby shop have "ROLLED THREADS" and the threaded area is a greater diameter than the shank of the rod and cannot be threaded with a die. they are too small in diameter.

The piano wire is too hard

The mig welding wire may be better? But is it too soft and will flex?

I use a "Z" bend in the unthreaded end of the rod. I throw the "cut offs" in the junk box.

alan0899

G'day Mate,
Don't bother trying to cut threads, just get Dubro threaded couplers, solder them to whatever rod you have & have a perfect thread every time.
I'm lucky, I have a lathe & I make my own, but the Dubro ones are good.

jetmech05

You cannot cut threads and have a clevis screw on to it...rolled threads are indeed different sized.....if you use flux and have a big enough iron...it only takes a second to solder on a clevis

JohnBuckner

My Feedback: (1)

I certainly agree with W8ye, Alan and Jetmech trying to cut threads is a pointless exercise and can cause other problems. For instance doing double ended clevis will require lock nuts to prevent turnbuckling and backing out on one end when you use straight rods (and I hope you only do straight rods, wet noodle rods either plastic or steel are a bad idea).

Far more workman like to use Zbend/ninety degree bend with keeper on one end and a clevis on the other. The most common setup I use is Dubro 2/56 threaded rod cut short and inserted in carbon fibre rod and epoxied. At the other end A short piece of cutoff Dubro rod is bent with a Z bend then inserted in the other end positioned and epoxied. You will end up with a much stiffer pushrod and accuratly set up neutrals.

If you must have clevis at both ends then solder on thread ends will be the easiest way to go and solder on connectors work great . If you don't know how to solder and you are past the RTF stage its time to invest in the proper tools and learn it will hold you in good stead for so many other things. Hmmm for example how about never ever agine loosing a wheel in flight to those dumb wheel collors.

John

Rodney

If you do not mind the slop and wear Z bends cause, use them. If you need good no-slop connections stick with clevises or ball joints. Yes, welding rods make good push rods that you can thread. For best results, get both a 5X40 and a 4X40 die then first run the 5X40 die on the rod then chase with the 4X40. For the 2X56, first use a 3X56 and chase with a 2X56 die on the proper size welding rod. This method will give you very good threads with no play or slop found in the rolled threads.

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

The company mentioned that was in High Flight is Innosol Inc. and it's called Rod Chuck. This was offered in 03 so who knows. Back then there on line address was WWW.rodchuck.com This system cut 4-40 threads on 1/8 rod or 2-56 on 3/32 rod. It was A double cut system. See if they are still making it?? Myself, I use the 4-40 rod and solder a clevis on one end so nothing comes loose. I really enjoy making up my controls and enjoy the cutting and soldering?? Maybe I'm just too strange??

BalsaBob

My Feedback: (24)

As far as threads on both ends .... so that you don't have to solder .... you DO NOT want to go with that method unless one of the clevis's is made of plastic or nylon (like a ball-link) and goes on with a good amount or resistance. A rod (with threads on both ends) and loose fitting metal clevises on both ends can actially come completly apart with certain sustained vibrations. Bob

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

That is the reason for backing up metal clevises with a nut to prevent the looseness

Gray Beard

My Feedback: (-1)

I use a lock nut on all my threaded ends no mater what, even when the other end is soldered, it keeps the clevises from vibrating and/or stripping. Problem is sometimes those nuts come loose from the vibration. I have seen them come loose on both ends of a control rod set up with threads on both ends, not a good thing. Ihave done it and gotten away with it but one end soldered is the way to go. I even used the lock nuts on the plastic ends but solder is the way to go. It really isn't very hard to do.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I've seen metal clevises rattle on rods so much that they wear out and strip the threads. It took over a 100 flights but it did happen

Lnewqban

fastplane:

Find proper dimensions here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unified_Thread_Standard

Use low or medium carbon steel and heat treat after cutting.
Support long rods to the airframe to avoid flexion under compression loads.
Prevent auto-rotation with thread lock; one adjustable end is enough.

For a 4-40, use 7/64" diameter.

Regards!