Help with Painting Koverall
#1
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Willowbrook,
IL
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Help with Painting Koverall
I ordered Brodak Paints the other day and i wanted to clarify the correct process for using them in combination with Koverall.
Ive read that there is Taughting and NonTaughting Clears? I however didnt see any difference nor did it specify which it was on Brodak Website. They do sell Nitrate clear, and Butyrate Clear. I purchased Butyrate clear, and Butyrate colors.
So ive got my primer, clear, and colors. I understand the process somewhat on applying the Koverall i have Stixit adhesive for that. But i want to get the most lusterous shine to my airplane as possible and im confused on the best steps to apply these items.
Do i just clear to seal the fabric, and them prime and paint, clearing again at the very end? or is there another way to go about this.
Any help would be appreciated.
Ive read that there is Taughting and NonTaughting Clears? I however didnt see any difference nor did it specify which it was on Brodak Website. They do sell Nitrate clear, and Butyrate Clear. I purchased Butyrate clear, and Butyrate colors.
So ive got my primer, clear, and colors. I understand the process somewhat on applying the Koverall i have Stixit adhesive for that. But i want to get the most lusterous shine to my airplane as possible and im confused on the best steps to apply these items.
Do i just clear to seal the fabric, and them prime and paint, clearing again at the very end? or is there another way to go about this.
Any help would be appreciated.
#2
RE: Help with Painting Koverall
I hope that some one else chimes in, but here goes :
It's my understanding that you want to seal the koverall with nitrate dope. No primer should be necessary, just go to your color. You can put the butyrate clear over the color coats.
It's my understanding that you want to seal the koverall with nitrate dope. No primer should be necessary, just go to your color. You can put the butyrate clear over the color coats.
#3
RE: Help with Painting Koverall
The first 2 coats I do are nitrate. Most modelers use non taunting dope as taunting continues to shrink for the rest of its life and can crush an airframe down the road. If you are using a primer it goes on next. Prime and sand until you get the smoothness you want, but dont cut into the fabric with the sand paper. Put the color on in coats and smooth it with sand paper too until it is like you want, and then do the same with the clear. You want to use wet/dry sandpaper 600 grit and finer and spritz the plane with water while you sand. Makes a mess but it can make the prettiest paint jobs.
#4
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Willowbrook,
IL
Posts: 214
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
RE: Help with Painting Koverall
How do i know if the Butyrate Clear i purchased is Taughting or non. it doesnt state that info on the can. is it standard that Nitrate is or isnt. and also Butyrate is or isnt. Or do both versions Nitrate and Butyrate come in both kinds?
#5
My Feedback: (1)
RE: Help with Painting Koverall
As far as I know, nitrate is non taughtening and the Butyrate is what shrinks. This is how the dope is that aircraft spruce sells. Also the Randolph's dope that Aircraft spruce sells, from what I understand is where everyone gets their dope. (Sig,Brodak etc.) I think you should just ask Brodak if this nitrate shrinks or not.
#7
RE: Help with Painting Koverall
kverall applied with Nitrate, then a couple coast and then prime and fill followed by butyrate is how i do it.
i haven't tried stix-it, but my buddy swears by it, and his models look great.
i go the nitrate to stick it as i have always done covering with dope.
one thing you can do if you have tautening dope (nitrate or butyrate) is to buy some "flex-all" from Dave Brown products. i just bought some for 5 bucks.
works great and won't affect anything and keeps the covering pliable for years.
we have 20 year old free flight models covered with Japanese tissue that would have become brittle by now if we had not use the flex-all in the doping process. still good as new.
i haven't tried stix-it, but my buddy swears by it, and his models look great.
i go the nitrate to stick it as i have always done covering with dope.
one thing you can do if you have tautening dope (nitrate or butyrate) is to buy some "flex-all" from Dave Brown products. i just bought some for 5 bucks.
works great and won't affect anything and keeps the covering pliable for years.
we have 20 year old free flight models covered with Japanese tissue that would have become brittle by now if we had not use the flex-all in the doping process. still good as new.