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gorrilla glue on CA hinges?

Old 03-02-2009, 12:54 AM
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flybyjohn
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Default gorrilla glue on CA hinges?

I am making several foam core wings with a 1/4" balsa trailing edge. I slotted for hinges and on the first wing used CA and it held good but some of the CA wicked into the foam and melted it. So the second one I drilled a 1/16" hole in the center of the slot and took some gorrilla glue (poly) and injected it with a syringe into the predrilled hole, placed the moistened CA hinge in the slot and worked it up and down to get good glue coverage (on the inserted portion only). I then for the next hour Q-tipped the foam off the trailing edge and away from the etruding part of the hinge. I am using balsa ailerons and will CA them to the protruding hinges.

Will this work and be strong enough? The Gorrilla glue sure looks like it filled the entire gap I cut for the hinging. It was even oozing out of a small hole in the styrofoam. Does anyone see any problems with this method besides taking a bit of time to make sure there is no build up of glue while it dries?

Thanks
John Kunda
Old 03-02-2009, 06:11 AM
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Default RE: gorrilla glue on CA hinges?

are you using ca hinges? i wasn't sure when i read your post.
Old 03-02-2009, 07:19 AM
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fancman
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Default RE: gorrilla glue on CA hinges?

why not use foam safe ca glue on your ca hinges.
Old 03-02-2009, 07:44 AM
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flybyjohn
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Default RE: gorrilla glue on CA hinges?

yes. I am using CA hinges, and I did look into foam safe CA glue, however I do not have a hobbie store within 2 hours of where I live and to mail order it, it would cost about 10.00 for the glue and 5.00 for shipping and that is for 1.0 oz or less. I was just looking for other alternatives that I could use in place of the CA glue for the foam/wood side of the hinge. Thin CA is used for its wicking properties so that it will soak up all through the hinge and make a good bond. I figured that the Gorrilla glue with its foaming properties would expand and fill all voids and totally saturate the hinge material, Not in the same way but with the same results of the CA glue. Does anybody think that this will not be of sufficiant strength to handle hinge loading?

Thanks for all the replies so far.
John Kunda
Old 03-02-2009, 08:50 AM
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Default RE: gorrilla glue on CA hinges?

I use gorilla glue for hinges most of the time but not on CA hinges. I use the Dubro plastic ones.
Old 03-02-2009, 09:30 AM
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Ed Smith
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Default RE: gorrilla glue on CA hinges?

Use epoxy.

Ed s
Old 03-02-2009, 10:04 AM
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Default RE: gorrilla glue on CA hinges?

It works just dandy on CA hinges.

You can even do one side at a time. Just make sure you dont use too much because it expands and will make a mess in a hurry.
Old 03-02-2009, 10:15 AM
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Default RE: gorrilla glue on CA hinges?


ORIGINAL: flybyjohn
I was just looking for other alternatives that I could use in place of the CA glue for the foam/wood side of the hinge. Thin CA is used for its wicking properties so that it will soak up all through the hinge and make a good bond. I figured that the Gorrilla glue with its foaming properties would expand and fill all voids and totally saturate the hinge material, Not in the same way but with the same results of the CA glue. Does anybody think that this will not be of sufficiant strength to handle hinge loading?

Thanks for all the replies so far.
John Kunda
Since I have developed a severe reaction to CA glues I have more or less returned to the "old" ways of attaching hinges. My suggestion is that you work in a warm layer of epoxy or Titebond (makes it thinner) then insert the hinge (I sometimes slightly enlarge the slot). If you are worried about the hinge's strength you may want to pin the outer and inner hinges. No need for it on the others.
Old 03-03-2009, 12:25 AM
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Default RE: gorrilla glue on CA hinges?


ORIGINAL: flybyjohn

I am making several foam core wings with a 1/4" balsa trailing edge. I slotted for hinges and on the first wing used CA and it held good but some of the CA wicked into the foam and melted it. So the second one I drilled a 1/16" hole in the center of the slot and took some gorrilla glue (poly) and injected it with a syringe into the predrilled hole, placed the moistened CA hinge in the slot and worked it up and down to get good glue coverage (on the inserted portion only). I then for the next hour Q-tipped the foam off the trailing edge and away from the etruding part of the hinge. I am using balsa ailerons and will CA them to the protruding hinges.

Will this work and be strong enough? The Gorrilla glue sure looks like it filled the entire gap I cut for the hinging. It was even oozing out of a small hole in the styrofoam. Does anyone see any problems with this method besides taking a bit of time to make sure there is no build up of glue while it dries?

Thanks
John Kunda
I think Gorrilla glue is fantastic stuff although I haven't yet used it very much. I think it will do a fine job as long as you keep the stuff away from your hinge mechanisim. I bought a used Cox .049 airplane with a damaged Styrofoam wing. I did repair it but I wasn't happy with the finish. I fiddled and fiddeled with it with filler until it weighed more than I thought was proper for an airplane. I scratch built a balsa, plastic shrink covered wing for my plane and I will NEVER consider putting an airplane in the air with Styrofoam again. I do have an electric "park flyer" that I'm learning to fly RC on. When I learn how to keep it aloft I will give it away to some young person who wants to learn to fly.

Bill
Old 03-03-2009, 01:35 PM
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Default RE: gorrilla glue on CA hinges?

Here is a pic of my T-6 showing how gorilla glue locks a hinge in. The plane was involved in a race practice mid-air.[:@]
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Old 03-03-2009, 02:41 PM
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Default RE: gorrilla glue on CA hinges?


ORIGINAL: vicman

Here is a pic of my T-6 showing how gorilla glue locks a hinge in. The plane was involved in a race practice mid-air.[:@]

It removes all doubt from my mind.

Bill
Old 03-03-2009, 03:45 PM
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Default RE: gorrilla glue on CA hinges?

I thought it would.

One thing I do that I haven't mentioned here is that I use a hole punch in the middle of the hinge plate, it acts like a rivet to lock the hinge in place after the glue kicks.
If you are interested I wrote an article for my club newsletter describing the process I use. I've been using gorilla glue on hinges for several years.
Old 03-03-2009, 04:42 PM
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Default RE: gorrilla glue on CA hinges?


ORIGINAL: vicman

I thought it would.

One thing I do that I haven't mentioned here is that I use a hole punch in the middle of the hinge plate, it acts like a rivet to lock the hinge in place after the glue kicks.
If you are interested I wrote an article for my club newsletter describing the process I use. I've been using gorilla glue on hinges for several years.

That's a darn good idea of punching the hole. If it isn't too much trouble I would like to read your article.

Thanks,
Bill
Old 03-03-2009, 04:58 PM
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Default RE: gorrilla glue on CA hinges?

Remember, You asked for this

What is your least favorite part of building a model? I read a thread some time back with that same question, surprisingly most people responded, sanding. However with the trend, availability, and variety of ARF models out there sanding is not an issue for many. For me it’s gluing hinges. This is a challenge for stick built kits and ARFs since all our models use moving control surfaces.

For some reason I never feel like I’m getting enough glue into that tiny slot and when I do I’m afraid I’m pushing all the glue into the rear or not getting it onto the hinge itself. I’ve used most of the popular hinge types out there whether they are CA, Robart hinge points, Dubro plastic, even string and epoxy.

The concern about getting enough glue in is especially concerning with CA type. It seems my CA wants to kick off too quickly and seals off the flow leaving me with uncertainty that I got enough in there to soak in. It also happens very quickly making alignment critical. On darker colored covering the cure tends to leave a frosty area that doesn’t look too good either.

Robart points are pretty solid and easy but not too friendly for smaller models due to their size.

Using epoxy on the Dubro type is just plain messy and if you get any on the hinge joint causes a whole new set of problems.

One evening I decided to try using Gorilla glue on some Dubro type. I reasoned that with the penetrating foaming action of Gorilla glue it would migrate into areas that I may not be able to reach and would penetrate the little holes in the hinges themselves. I found that Gorilla glue was pretty easy to clean off of Monocote and Ultracote by just flaking off with a firm scraping tool and pliers.

At first I used a sliver of credit card similar to what would be used when trying to get epoxy into the slot. Then I remembered an old syringe I had. I thought that if I inject the glue into the slot I wouldn’t even need to slide the credit card around; it would just fill it up and squirt out the sides. Getting the tip of the syringe into the slot was easily remedied with some strategically placed heat and blunt instrument making the tip flat instead of round. I also decided to add some more surface area for the glue to fix the hinge in place since the glue doesn’t really stick to the plastic. This was accomplished by using a paper hole punch and putting a fairly large hole in the center of the hinge surface still leaving the little pre-existing holes thus creating a rivet. The Gorilla glue doesn’t need much on the surface to foam up and fill the void alleviating any concern about pushing the glue out of contact with the surfaces glued.
After punching a hole in each side I also dip the hinge joint into some melted Vaseline to keep any glue from migrating into the mechanism and locking the hinge up similar to the epoxy problem.

A little Gorilla glue goes a loooong way.
With that in mind you don’t need to fill the syringe to the top. It’s also is ok to add more if needed during the job, another positive feature of using Gorilla glue over epoxy. If you want extra foam action from the glue a spritz of water greatly improves the speed of cure and how much the glue expands. I’ll explain cleaning later.

Armed with a flat tipped syringe full of glue, properly cut hinge slots, punched and lubed hinges, and a squirt bottle of water (I use an old window cleaner bottle) the act of securing the hinges is mind free and rather quick.

Simply push the tip into the slot as deep as you feel comfortable without splitting the wood. Push down on the syringe pumping glue into the slot, stopping before it squirts out the side. When you pull the syringe out the slot will collapse and force some excess out. Insert the hinge and wipe off any excess glue with a paper towel.

I usually put the hinges into the control surface first since handling a smaller part makes it easy to manage and set them aside till I’m ready to mount them into the wing, vertical, or horizontal flying surface.

Repeat the same process of squirting glue into the slots and carefully assemble your previously glued control surface to the flying surface.

Usually by the time I have the second set of slots glued the first one is already foaming up a bit. Just wipe off the foam with a paper towel. Most of the foaming will occur in the first 45 minutes. Periodic wiping, about every 15 minutes or more, will keep things under control minimizing post cure clean-up.

Clean-up; it’s this simple. Squirt out the unused glue into the trash or some other suitable disposal area. Give the syringe plunger a thorough wiping. Get as much glue off the rubber as possible. Over time and after several uses it will harden up a bit but is still fine for pushing glue into slots. Wipe as much glue as easily possible out of the syringe body. It’s not critical to get every trace of glue out since when it cures you can flake it off easily. Don’t worry about the glue in the very tip either, place a piece of wire, I use an old pushrod, into the tip and give it all a spritz of water to kick off the foam. Let it sit overnight and cure up completely. The next day flake off the foam at the exit of the tip and pull the wire out the back of the body. The foam will pop out in one easy chunk and you are all clean for the next time.

The foam will expand all over the hinges overnight. Don’t worry about it getting on anything critical. The Vaseline will protect the integrity of the hinge. I use a scriber, small flat blade screwdriver and some small flat pliers to pull the excess foam out of the joint. Since the glue doesn’t stick completely to the covering, with a little patience you will be able to remove all traces of the foam and have a sound hinge that will most likely out live your model.

I have several pictures of the process. If you’re interested I can email them.
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Old 03-03-2009, 05:16 PM
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Default RE: gorrilla glue on CA hinges?

Wow, thank you very much. It sounds like an excellent process. I've been looking for an excuse to try Gorilla Glue. I don't have too much faith in CA on most plastics. I printed your piece out for future reference.

Thanks again,
Bill
Old 03-03-2009, 05:38 PM
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Default RE: gorrilla glue on CA hinges?

I used gorilla glue on a SPAD i built, because I was out of CA and did not want to leave for more. with a run over my glue surfaces with very course sandpaper a cleaning with alcohol. i didnt like how it flew so a couple weeks later I wanted to rebuild the wing, with CA this is not that much of an issue as you can pop the glued areas no problem.

I tore a nice strip of coro loose trying to remove the spar LOL since then I have used gorilla glue on anything I need with a little strength. 2 things about gorilla glue if you mix it with alcohol it will foam and cure very fast. 2nd is that if you need something glued in place without pressure of a clamp on it with this glue...Add a drop of CA on top of anywhere you need to hold and in 2 minutes you will have an iron hard area of gorilla glue that is near impossible to remove from any surface IT WILL splinter two pieces of ply glued together long before it will release it.

I discovered this by mistake I had thinned a bead of gorilla glue with a scrap of ply, tossed it over on the scrap pile in the process knocking over the bottle of CA, thank you lord for waxed paper, anyway where those 2 glues combined was insanely strong and instant..
Old 03-03-2009, 08:08 PM
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Default RE: gorrilla glue on CA hinges?

I haven't tried getting it to kick with alcohol yet nor making it hard with CA. It has messed me up once or twice with the super foamy action forcing the pieces apart when not clamped well enough.

I think that was the largest single post I've ever made. Glad you liked it.
Old 03-03-2009, 09:13 PM
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Default RE: gorrilla glue on CA hinges?

With the CA on it u get about 1 minute if this epoxy like state that is insanely tacky, the next few seconds it will turn to stone, so you get a little more time then thin CA but not much.

I have used this little trick on several different things including a mount to hold one of my planes up on the wall.
Old 09-19-2021, 04:02 AM
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I am going to try clear gorilla glue with CA hinges. Draw a half way line on the hinge. To reduce the expansion effect, will put a about half a teaspoon of gorilla glue in a medicine cuplet, add a couple of drops of water to mix it and let it foam up. Then insert some in the foam slot with a pin or thin wire, put a thin amount on on half of the CA hinge, insert slowly, take away any glue that extrudes out of the slot as I insert with a tooth pick and Q-tip. There will be no glue past the halfway lineLet it set. Then once set, do the same with the aileron slots, remove any excess glue at the hinge, let it cure, should hold very well.
Old 09-19-2021, 10:26 AM
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That defeats the whole purpose of using CA hinges, the fact they are easy,, were first called EZ hinges BTW,

if you have use and clean up glue during the process might as well use a quality Pin or Robart pin hinge and epoxy
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