Dieselman1220

My Feedback: (25)

Like the title says I would like to know what to do to prevent future headaches before installing the enine. I have brand new in the box a ST gs40, TTpro 46, and OS 46ax. I was thinking maybe putting high temp rtv sealant around the carb and backplate maybe blue locktight on all the screws. What is everyones opinion? I just want to increase reliability

bayward

Break them in like the manual says and fly them.

Bob

phatbob02

My Feedback: (126)

Send them to me! All your worries will be over!

airbusdrvr

I believe RTV and locktite are not needed. The only time I have used Locktite was to hold the nut on the aft end of the long screw that holds each half of an OS muffler together. These sometimes come loose. Backplates, cylinder heads, etc. usually just need to be "aircraft" tight(snug).

ChuckW

I'll check to make sure all of the screws are tight but that's about it.

j.duncker

My Feedback: (2)

Blue loctite on the muffler screws is a good idea.

*JCB*

My Feedback: (9)

the only extra things i have done to a brand new 2 stroke:

1: throw away the remote needle valve (if possible)
2: seal the muffler on with RTF

nothing else, in my opinion, is really needed...other than checking all the bolts

jimmyjames213

My Feedback: (2)

thats all i do

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

Check that everything is tight, and that's it. Don't 'fix' anything until it 'breaks'. These things are machined pretty well so often this stuff is not needed. Loctite on the muffler screws is a good idea though.

jetmech05

On the 46AX use some red RTV on the split line of the muffler....lock tite breaks down with heat. I break in the engine per the manual. then run slightly rich for the first 3 or 4 flights before tuning to max....keep some altitude then always be gentle on the manuvers and inverted flight until you have at least 10 flights on the motor.
as always review in your mind what to do in case of a dead stick and be prepared for it, until the motor has those 10 flights...
Good Luck

ChuckW

At a very high temp maybe since it is intended to let go when heated with a torch or something but at normal engine temps? This stuff is widely used in automotive and other engines. I've used the blue stuff on muffler bolts since I've been into RC and I know for a fact that it has held well since I've disassembled quite a few and the locktite was definitely still effective.

carrellh

I take them out of the box, bolt them on, install the muffler, and run them. I do not check head bolts, backplate bolts, etc. I have never used loctite on the muffler bolts.

From what I've read over the past few years, some people fully disassemble every engine and do a thorough inspection, cleaning, and lubrication before ever starting a new engine.

In this thread we have people who tighten screws, add loctite, seal mufflers, etc.

Maybe I'm too trusting of the factory but I go with the principle of "If it ain't broke, don't fix it."

mclina

I also just bolt them on the plane and break them in per the manual. On my Super Tigre's I am very careful about following the directions for seating the carb, because I have heard that they are prone to leak if you don't really squeeze them down. I would also be very careful in positioning the muffler angle before tightening, as I had one that did not want to move once it was tightened the first time.

I have never used loctite on my mufflers, but I do like to tighten the screws once the engine is hot.

Good luck

Jetdesign

My Feedback: (8)

If you read the Super Tigre reviews, there are many people that talk about loose screws in their new engine. I have never had to check my OS engines.

I used blue loctite without knowing anything about hi-temp break down (on the muffler bolts) and they seem to have held up just fine. Red locktite is the one that breaks down intentionally with heat, the blue just requires a screwdriver to remove.

ChuckW

I know this is probably a little useless when it comes to RC but here is the technical datasheet for Loctite-242 (blue): https://tds.us.henkel.com//NA/UT/HNAUTTDS.nsf/web/4F5DE4CF912A71D7882571870000D60D/$File/242-EN.pdf

Looks like strength degrades to 25% but still holds at 150C/302F and the break loose temp they recomend in extreme cases where normal hand tools won't work is 250C/482F.

Loctite is pretty cool and useful stuff and there are quite a few different varieties for different applications.

bassfisher

My Feedback: (21)

I just make sure the screws are tight then bolt them on. Takes about a minute. Break in per the manual.

Ed_Moorman

My Feedback: (1)

I've owned 4 OS .46AXs, 3 TT .46Pros and have a buddy with a couple of ST GS-40s.

The OS .46s break in and run very easily. Not the tops for power, but close. Easiest engines to get set, tune and run. Super reliable engine.

The TT .46 is also an excellent engine. Takes a little more time to break-in. Some people prefer then to the OS.

The St 40 is an excellent trainer engine. It takes a good bit longer to break-in and get set correctly. Once you get a half gallon to a gallon of fuel through it, it'll be purring. It's more powerful than the plain bearing OS .40LA, but the OS can be cranked up and flown reliably from the get go. Over the long run, it's my opinion that the ST is a better buy.

sowega flyer

All of my engines go on a test stand- especially if I have plans to put it in a cowled plane. It makes life a whole lot easier especially if it turns out to be a finicky engine until broken in. (I don't own any O.S.') In between the trip from the test stand to the plane, the bolts get a once over.
Glow engines are at least 40% of the reason why I love this hobby so the test stand is more or less my way of having fun...

TexasAirBoss

My Feedback: (22)

I use locktite on the muffler bolts also. IF the cowl is particularly tight, I''l run a few tanks on the ground with the cowl off. Otherwise I break them in in the air. ( I run OS Max)

Dieselman1220

My Feedback: (25)

Thanks for the replies with my rc car engines I used to put rtv sealant to prevent air leaks never had any trouble was just wondering it the same went with the airplanes.
Anyway today I was given a new STgs40 the guy said he let it get to lean during the break in and ruined it. The engine looks brand new what would it take to get it running, a new ring? or a piston, sleeve, and ring? if it takes all 3 that will cost me about $50 plus new snap rings for wrist pin so $55.00 I can get the whole engine for $60 obviously not worth it. But if it only need a new ring thats about $8 thus makes it worth it. Thanks in advance

ChuckW

It's hard to say what the engine would need without taking it apart. If you got it for free, tear it down and take a look.

Dieselman1220

My Feedback: (25)

Ok and what would i be looking for? my only experience has been with abc and non ringed engines its easy to tell when the compression is gone it time for a new piston and sleeve
what about a ringed engine?

ChuckW

Well, I'd get a new ring regardless. It is cheap and easy to replace while then engine is apart. I'd look for any sort of discoloration of the cylinder liner, crank pin, connecting rod, ends, piston, etc. Look for metal transfer between components, excessive abrasion and stuff like that. Make sure the bearings look and feel OK. If you really wanted to get into it you could start measuring things looking for warpage and other damage but a good visual is probably enough.

Unless the guy absolutely got the thing chorching hot somehoew I bet there's a good chance you'll be able to have it up and running pretty easily.

Dieselman1220

My Feedback: (25)

Thanks ill do that and post some pics in a few hours if i can get i running for less than $30 it will be worth it to me. The guy that had put it on a twin star he said he was having alot of trouble with the other engine so he forgot about the other one while it was running. Thanks alot for the help i really appreciate it.