JollyPopper

My Feedback: (6)

Just a quick question about Koverall. I am going to use Koverall for the first time, and am wondering about putting it over a sheeted surface. I will be using Balsarite to glue the Koverall to the wood. Should I put Balsarite on the entire area of a sheeted surface and then iron it down? If so, how does it then shrink if it's already stuck to the wood? Or do I just run a strip of Balsarite down the center of the bottom of the fuselage and iron that down and then shrink it, the Koverall at this point not stuck to the wood except at the bottom? If I do that, then will the sealer I apply on top of the Koverall soak through and adhere the Koverall after it has already shrunk? Obviously, I don't know what I'm doing here.

mikegordon10

When you heat the Koverall to shrink it the heat will soften the Balsarite enough to allow the Koverall to shrink. Just put the balsarite over all the framework that will come in contact with the Koverall. Then cover just as if it were a plastic covering. When you put on another piece of Koverall you will need to put balsarite on top of the first layer of Koverall at the seam line.

michael9054

My Feedback: (2)

Hi Jollypopper,

I tried Koverall last year and was in the same situation as you,a beginner with that stuff! I did the same procedure as mike described but am not really convinced by that material.The tension of the material is not great but the look îs good. On top of that it is not possible to purchase balsarite in europe. Did cover a biplane from great planes(ultimate bipe,the small one).also,painting is a challenge,not as easy as oracover .....

Good luck[sm=wink_smile.gif]

Stickbuilder

You don't have to use balsarite. You can adhere the Koverall with Nitrate Dope. It works well.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

Wedgetail

I have a Scimitar wing that I have just covered with Koverall. The wing is 64" WS x 14" Chord. I cut the fabric to let me wrap the wing completely starting at the TE and finishing at the TE. I applied Balsloc only to the 1" wide TE and on the rib capping where the airfoil is reflexed. The tips were also painted with the Balsaloc. I started at the four corners of one side (full span) and tacked it down carefully. I continued to wrap it around and then tacked the other side of the wing as before. I pulled the fabric all around as tight as I could get and then ironed it down on the wing tips. the TE was then ironed down and then the hollow of the reflexed ribs. I like to use cap strips that are 1/2" wide on all ribs. This makes for a very stiff wing and ensures good adhesion on the reflexed hollows. The rest of the wing was not covered with Balsaloc except where the cutouts were for the servos. It was ever so easy to form the fabric over the wingtips on the compound curves.
I shrunk the fabric with my normal iron used for film but I had it set on high. I shrunk the fabric all over the wing on both sides, checking for warps and "gathers" as I went. The fabric was so much easier to use than any covering film I have used before. I will never buy film again! I have applied the first coat of nitrate dope and the fabric is so wonderfully tight. I will apply two more coats and then spray a sealer on using a water based Polyurathane and then finishing coats of colour.
When applying the Balsa-loc, apply a thin coat as the directions state. I recomend using a test piece first to get the feel for it.. Don't fear it, just do it, it's very easy and forgiving. The fabric has a fantastic shrink rate so don't be scared. Try and keep it as tight as you can though as you stick the fabric on as this will make it easier to shrink very tightly when it's all glued down. I wouldn't stick the fabric down over the entire surface, this would be incorrect.

Wedge

lazyace

My Feedback: (126)

after fab is on and shrunk do I need a coat of nitrate dope or can I just seal the weave with water base poly ?

WacoNut

Charlie,
You can use water based Poly to fill the weave. I just finished covering my 33% Waco and here are the steps I used.
I atatched the faric at the edges with Nitrate Dope, after the edges have dried and been trimmed and doped down I shrink the Koverall with my iron . The stuff shrinks better than any iron on covering. I then thin the PolyC with 10% water and brush on very light coats with a foam brush. The PolyC dries very quickly and you will need at least 6 coats to fill the weave of the fabric. I give it a light sanding with 400 grit paper after the 2nd coat and each coat after.
Thinning the PolyC will help minimize any runs and puddles developing on the surface of the fabric, if you do get a run give it a sanding with 150 grit paper just be very careful not to sand into the fabric. Also be very careful sanding the fabric where the open structure meets sheeting as it is very easy to sand thru the fabric at an edge.
On my 33% Waco I used 2 large packs of Koverall and less than a quart of PolyC. I was able to cover the fuselage with one piece of Koverall(try that with an iron on covering). Here are a few pics of my covering job, I just added tapes from Pink-It.net
Later!!
Anthony

lazyace

My Feedback: (126)

anthony

I have used it befor but have always used nitrate to fill the weave just trying to get away from the smell thanks for the thinning tip
charlie

JollyPopper

My Feedback: (6)

Thanks, guys. I appreciate your responses. WacoNut, that one looks good enough to fly just like it isno paint. I was going to use water based polyurethane to fill the weave. What is PolyC? Is that a variation of polyurethane? Better?

RICMOD5634

WacoNut; The gray areas I take it are already painted. What did you use for rivets, they don't look likr glue dots?
very nice job by the way.

RichF

WacoNut

When I refer to PolyC I am talking about Minwax brand Polycrlic. It is a water based urethane.

I used #2 screws to attach all the fiberglass parts on the Waco, the fiberglass parts have been primered. The plane will be Blue and White once painted.
Later!
Anthony

Stickbuilder

For the most long lasting covering job, using Koverall, you should apply at least one coat of Nitrate Dope (taughtening) to the surface prior to filling the weave with something like Poly-C. This will ensure that the fabric will continue to shrink over time, and thus will keep your covering material tight, regardless of the weather changes.

Bill, Waco Brother #1

pmw

My Feedback: (1)

JollyPopper,

Minwax Polycrylic is water based. Advantages are easy clean up, no odor, almost any finish will stick to it, easy to sand. Minwax Polyurethane is mineral based. It is okay for an undercoat, but some finishes will react over urethane. The real disadvantage of mineral based urethane is that it will yellow when used as a top coat. Water based clears will not. Either is good as an undercoat, but the water based products are much easier to use. Urethane is more durable and is really designed to be used as a heavy duty final finish over furniture or flooring. Waterbased is designed for lighter applications such as picture frames or children's toys.

Paul

rc-sport

My Feedback: (12)

Bill, what paint will you be using to cover your Waco. I have a Pica Waco that I will be recovering with Koverall soon. What types of finish paints will stick to the PolyC?