Couple of questions regarding break in/set up
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Couple of questions regarding break in/set up
Hi guys,
I am now 22 and getting back into rc planes. I have a .46 nitro Spacewalker, I have begun breaking in the OS .46. Basically I have done 3 tanks at idle (Im coming from nitro cars and dont really know how to break in nitro plane engines), and Im going to lean out the engine until it reaches full rpm and doesnt cut out and then richen it up a little. Will probably do about 8-10 flights like that and then finally leave the engine at its proper tune. Is that a proper break in? On cars I use a temp gun, sound and smoke to check a tune. How about with planes? Do people use temp guns or not really? What are the proper temps it should be running at if so? I put my finger on the cooling head during my 3 tanks and I could easily leave my finger on it for 5 sec so its not running very hot at all, of course, its really rich and at idle.
One more quesiton I have is regarding the hi and low rates. How do I set these up? I have a Dx6i.
Thanks guys! I really appreciate the help!
I am now 22 and getting back into rc planes. I have a .46 nitro Spacewalker, I have begun breaking in the OS .46. Basically I have done 3 tanks at idle (Im coming from nitro cars and dont really know how to break in nitro plane engines), and Im going to lean out the engine until it reaches full rpm and doesnt cut out and then richen it up a little. Will probably do about 8-10 flights like that and then finally leave the engine at its proper tune. Is that a proper break in? On cars I use a temp gun, sound and smoke to check a tune. How about with planes? Do people use temp guns or not really? What are the proper temps it should be running at if so? I put my finger on the cooling head during my 3 tanks and I could easily leave my finger on it for 5 sec so its not running very hot at all, of course, its really rich and at idle.
One more quesiton I have is regarding the hi and low rates. How do I set these up? I have a Dx6i.
Thanks guys! I really appreciate the help!
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RE: Couple of questions regarding break in/set up
Now you need a few heat cycles on the OS. On your next tank, get it running as before at a very rich setting (lots of oil/smoke coming out of the exhaust). Then lean out the high speed needle so that the RPM increases. Hold this for 15 seconds, then go back to the rich settng for 20-30 seconds. Then lean it out again, aiming for max rpm for 15 seconds. Back to blubbering rich, and repeat the entire 15 second rich/lean cycle for a tank. With an OS, this should get it to the point you can fly it.
I don't think most airplane folks use a temperature gun on their engines. When flying, there should be a vapor/smoke trail that's visible, but the general rule of thumb is to lean it out to max rpm on the bench, then richen up the high speed needle by enough to drop the rpm to 300/400 below max. That's usually 3 or 4 clicks on the needle.
Dual rates allow you to put more throw into the rudder, aileron, and elevator settings. Most airplanes give you suggested high/low deflections in inchs or centimeters or degress, and you set them on the transmitter by adjusting the changing the % of servo travel to drive the control surface. To set them up, you go into set up model on the DX6, then find the dual rate settings and adjust.
Fred
I don't think most airplane folks use a temperature gun on their engines. When flying, there should be a vapor/smoke trail that's visible, but the general rule of thumb is to lean it out to max rpm on the bench, then richen up the high speed needle by enough to drop the rpm to 300/400 below max. That's usually 3 or 4 clicks on the needle.
Dual rates allow you to put more throw into the rudder, aileron, and elevator settings. Most airplanes give you suggested high/low deflections in inchs or centimeters or degress, and you set them on the transmitter by adjusting the changing the % of servo travel to drive the control surface. To set them up, you go into set up model on the DX6, then find the dual rate settings and adjust.
Fred
#3
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RE: Couple of questions regarding break in/set up
I would adjust the high speed needle for max RPM then back it off 3-4 clicks to richen it slightly (200-500 RPM drop).
Next, adjust the low speed needle for a reliable idle and a smooth transition.
Recheck the high speed needle and make sure it is still richened slightly from peak.
Fly and have fun.
There's really no need for a temperature gun or anything else.
Next, adjust the low speed needle for a reliable idle and a smooth transition.
Recheck the high speed needle and make sure it is still richened slightly from peak.
Fly and have fun.
There's really no need for a temperature gun or anything else.
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RE: Couple of questions regarding break in/set up
Using heat cycles on an ABC-type engine is harmful. Running it at idle during break-in is harmful. This is not a ringed engine, so break-in methods for ringed engines should not be used.
ABC-type engines need to be brought up to their designed operating temperature. Every stroke of the piston that doesn't take place within that temp range is unnecessary wear and tear. That's because the cylinder needs to be heated in order to fit the piston properly. Feel that pinch at TDC? That's there because the engine isn't at the right temp. Do you really want your engine having that pinch 1,200 times per minute? That's what happens if an ABC-type is run only at idle during break-in.
Run it rich, but not slobbering rich. ChuckW has the right idea.
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RE: Couple of questions regarding break in/set up
When you say lean until max rpm, do you mean WOT and just lean the needle until it reaches max rpm? My fingers that close to the prop at max rpm is pretty nerve racking! LOL
#6
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RE: Couple of questions regarding break in/set up
Yes, max RPM at full throttle. Just make sure you are standing behind the airplane and be aware of where the prop is at all times. It is when people are in front of or beside the plane and try to reach over or through props that they usually get injured.
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RE: Couple of questions regarding break in/set up
Check the owner's manual. It gives detailed instructions on the correct way to run in an OS engine. If you don't have it, you can get it here http://www.osengines.com/manuals/index.html
Yes, you do need to adjust the needle valve with the engine running at full throttle. As Chuck said, stay behind the prop arc and always be aware of where the prop is and where your fingers are.
Dave
Yes, you do need to adjust the needle valve with the engine running at full throttle. As Chuck said, stay behind the prop arc and always be aware of where the prop is and where your fingers are.
Dave
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RE: Couple of questions regarding break in/set up
ORIGINAL: MikeL
Using heat cycles on an ABC-type engine is harmful. Running it at idle during break-in is harmful. This is not a ringed engine, so break-in methods for ringed engines should not be used.
Using heat cycles on an ABC-type engine is harmful. Running it at idle during break-in is harmful. This is not a ringed engine, so break-in methods for ringed engines should not be used.
ABC-type engines need to be brought up to their designed operating temperature. Every stroke of the piston that doesn't take place within that temp range is unnecessary wear and tear. That's because the cylinder needs to be heated in order to fit the piston properly. Feel that pinch at TDC? That's there because the engine isn't at the right temp. Do you really want your engine having that pinch 1,200 times per minute? That's what happens if an ABC-type is run only at idle during break-in.
Run it rich, but not slobbering rich. ChuckW has the right idea.