Solartex Question
 

Well, I have a 1/5 scale J-3 Cub and would like to use solartex. I have read many threads about it andjust abouteverybody said that you must put a clear coat of some kind over it to protect it from stains and glow fuel. WhatI need to know is what type of clear coat to use and what works best. I will be using an O.S 46 in the plane, so I would like the clearcoat to hold up to the fuel.
Thanks a bunch, Phillip

RE: Solartex Question
 

I use a lot of Solartex and like it very much. You do not need to put anything over it but if you do not, the weave does tend to collect dirt that is hard to wash/clean up. My favorite top coat is clear epoxy paint like you can get from Klass Kote. If you are using gasoline instead of glow, just about any paint will work well over Solartex. If for a glow powered plane, just about any of the fuel proof over coats work well, take your pick.

RE: Solartex Question
 

To each his own but I've got it on 2 Cubs and 4 WWI birds and, given a good cleanup after every session it holds up just fine. Does it start to appear 'weathered'? Sure. But that adds character!

RE: Solartex Question
 

Klass Kote is perhaps the best?? I have used Lusterkote with good results. I have put it on without using any clear coat too but clean up is a lot easier with the top coat. Or maybe I'm just too lazy to clean up a plane real good after every time it gets flown?? Most Likely reason.

RE: Solartex Question
 

You don't have to seal it. Just make sure you clean it after every flight. I did my Fokker DR1 with straight Solartex and I have no problems. You just might want to tack down the seams before flying- if the plane has been sitting idle for a few months inside the house. One of my insignia's did try to peel up a little on the top wing because I didn't do that. But I tacked it back down after the last flight and now she's fine. So I agree, Solartex doesn't need to be sealed unless you plan on painting it.

Here's my proof:


http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...t/SANY0332.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...t/SANY0338.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...t/SANY0333.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...t/SANY0334.jpg


Pete

RE: Solartex Question
 

Proof? Good idea. BUSA Eindecker. Built 2006, 220 flites.

RE: Solartex Question
 

I think I do want to put a clear coat over the solartex becouse I dont want to have to worry about it plealing off or getting stained. I like everything I saw about the Klass Kote but the price tag, and being a 14 year old boy, I dont have that kind of money to spend on a clear coat. Becouse of this I was wondering if you could paint clear polyurathane over the solartex with no ill resultes, it's much cheaper. If polyurathane does make a mess of your covering, I would not like to spend more than $15 on a clear coat.
Thank you, Phillip

RE: Solartex Question
 

I've had success with the Minnwax Polyurethane. I am talking about the "oil base" not the Polycryllic.

It comes close to meeting your price criteria.

I sprayed my model, but I assume that you could brush it on, if you don't have access to spray equipment.

RE: Solartex Question
 

I brush Polycryllic on all my Solartex covering jobs and have had zero problems. I use Satin and like the slight sheen it gives.I also brush it on the inside of the tank and engine compartment. Most of these are gas. I have used Lustercoat clear, but yellows badly.

RE: Solartex Question
 

As many have said,, you don't "Need" to seal it but my one experience without was not great,, I had a 25 size P-39 that I covered in OD Solartex, after a while it just stopped coming clean and turned into an oil soaked mess,, Nature of a two stroke with hundreds of flights I guess.

Another Fiend built a beautiful Aeromaster Bipe on floats, it was covered in the natural Solatex, we took it to a float fly @ lake Elsinore, the algae was out of control that year and the green stained the covering,, nothing he tried would get it all the way out of the weave,, he ended up painting the plane.

I typically always use white and plan to paint,

RE: Solartex Question
 

" just about everybody said that you must put a clear coat of some kind over it to protect it from stains and glow fuel. "

When Solartex was introduced, it was great and wonderful stuff; the manufacturer yeilded to the screams and complaints of the vociferous few; coated it so that it was fuel proof/resistant; and in the process, doubled the weight, and cost:-((((((((((((((((((((

Les

RE: Solartex Question
 

Pretty much exactly what happened to mine, turned into a sticky mess. I'm out of my bipe stage and haven't used it on anything other then Cubs but they always get a clear coat. For the little extra work the plane will stay clean so it's just not a big deal. It's just a light coat of clear, not like trying to fill the weave.

RE: Solartex Question
 

Maybe the air and water are cleaner in Colorado than Nevada :)

RE: Solartex Question
 

I have found that the cleaning sponges like the Mr Clean brand, will clean un coated solartex. It will even do a good job of removing the black oil spots from gas engines. I normlly use it with windex.

RE: Solartex Question
 

Is there any other place that sells solertex than Balsa USA?
Thanks Phillip

RE: Solartex Question
 

One of my local hobby shops stocks it. Don't quote me on this but I think {{??}} I used to buy it from Horizon?? Have yo done a google?? The prices from BUSA arre the same as any other place I have found it.
And yes, Klass kote will give anyone sticker shock. How about us old farts on fixed incomes.The Lusterkote is easy to find and works well, cheap enough even for me.I have used water based poly U and gotten away with it. Some of the Poly yellows and flakes off in the heat and sun.

RE: Solartex Question
 

While Klass Kote is rather expensive, it is not as bad as it might seem. The coverage is great (takes far less paint to cover an area) and it is very durable and resistant to normal wear and tear where a normal paint job shows it's wear much sooner. For many uses, it the less expensive solution in the long run.

RE: Solartex Question
 

KK pait does go a long way. First you mix the part A&B 50/50 then you thin that down another 50%. It's my all time favorite but to do a two tone plane it costs more for paint then the engine.

RE: Solartex Question
 

I think I'll go the polyurathane route. Correct me if I'm wrong but KK would cost me about $20 more than polyurathane. I just don't want to spend that much on a clear coat. I did do a google search on solartex but nothing came up otherthan B UAS and a bunch of reviews, questions and things about it on RC groups and Universe. I'll try my LHS.

RE: Solartex Question
 

For those who are having problems keeping their straight Solartex clean, do what I do.


Make a special airplane cleaner:



Mix into a gallon jug -

* 10 cups of filtered water
* 2 cup denatured alcohol
* 1 cup ammonia
* 1/4 cup of favorite dish soap.

Pour into your spray bottle and use on your airplane as you normally would.

Try that on your algae stained float plane next time.

Clean your plane after every flight. I have no oil or bug gut residue on my Solartex because I do this. The denatured alcohol and ammonia gets into the weave and lifts the dirt out. Dish soap breaks up and breaks down the oil residue.

It's much cheaper and less risk to have the right cleaner- than sealing your Solartex with something that might stain and add weight to your model. My Fokker Dr1 was 5lbs on the heavy side because of the Solartex covering and all the scratch made scale details. If I were to seal and paint over it, my plane would have been about 7lbs over weight- and most of us know how a overweight aircraft reacts like on the controls. Not good!

Nice plane Augie11! Sheee shur iz purdy.


Pete

RE: Solartex Question
 

It works, just make sure you give the plane as much time as you can to let it set up as hard as it will get. Trick with ST or Ultrakote covering. After you cover the plane set it outside in the hot sun for an hour. It will sag on you. Take it back into your shop and shrink it again. Do this several times until it no longer sags. From then on it shouldn't sag or wrinkel in the hot sun when your at the field. Do it before you put on any trim colors too.

RE: Solartex Question
 

I did check with my LHS for Solartex today, they only keep the two meter rolls instock so they had to special order the 5 meter roll. It should take a week but at least I don't have to pay shipping.<font size="3">:D</font> So, I should cover the plane set it outside until the covering sags, bring it back inside, reshrink the covering, and after doing this until it no longer sags, paint it with polyurathane and put the decals on? Also, should I wait until the airplane is fairly cool, or right after I bring it in to reshrink the covering.
Thank you, Phillip 

RE: Solartex Question
 

I let it cool off. ST can be shrunk with just a hot iron too. No real need for a heat gun. And yes, you have it right.;)

RE: Solartex Question
 

Oberst thanks. But that BUSA kit and Solartex make anybody look good. Light wingloading...flies like a trainer. I'll bet your Dr I is a winner. I've got a D VIII.....fewer wings to clean :)

I just use Windex after flying. Once I get the bird home I go over her again and have used 91% alcohol (from Walmart) to hit any residual stains I might have missed.

RE: Solartex Question
 

Yes Augie11, my Dr1 is a winner. The pilot bust's head rotates with the rudder and it is even a bigger hit. I managed to get a micro servo in the bust and added a servo reverser so when I kick the rudder right, the head turns right etc.

The only problem flying my Fokker is that the ground handling is terrible, and I need to most often than not have to guide my plane by hand- to make sure I'm lined up to the wind. My plane is not the BUSA Fokker DR1, but I'd like to get one one day and scale it out for competition. ( Already have a friend who is giving me a copy of the GT 1/4 Dr1 rudder Plan) The picture above is my highly modified custom Discontinued Great Planes 60 Fokker DR1.

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...rst/flight.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...t/SANY0337.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...t/SANY0336.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...t/SANY0331.jpg

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASZqoy_uMnc[/youtube]


The best way to describe it is she'll bite me in the ***** if I don't stay on my toes. It's not forgiving and if I don't pay attention she'll become a lumber yard again. I like how your landing gear came out, and the spoked rims really make a scale difference.

I used to use 91% alcohol for cleaning, but it sometimes leaves streaks, and on some painted coverings it will eat paint. A "Ol-timer" at my club gave me his cleaner recipe and I went to my local hardware store and picked up the supplies. Last week I made the Witches Brew and hit my planes real fast and I was amazed! It cleaned up what my windex missed. I ran a finger over the bottom cowl where oil likes to build up over time and it was squeeky clean after I hit it once with the cleaner.

Give it a shot, the ingredients don't cost much. As you can tell I'm very impressed!


Pete