Looking for a good switch mount
 

Hi,

I was wondering what people are using for a switch mount these days, I am looking for one that has the charging lead hatch or something. The ones I have been using seem to be a real challenge to get the charging lead to sit in the recess properly, and have started just pulling the lead out and have it dangle in the wind. Can't remember the brand I usually use, but it seems to require adding shims so the charging lead has a space around it so the charging lead from the charger/tester can slip into the hole.

Calvi

There are a number of switches on the market that would fit your needs. I think mine are hangar 9.

There are two still on the market that meet the description of what you want one is a Great Planes and the other is the Dubro. Both are sold by Tower. The Dubro is my favorite and normally only use that one but have tried everything that has be avalible for some years and the Dubro remains my favorite as easiest to set up and use.

The one you remember that worked best by adding a spacer shim in the tunnel actually was the early Dubro's however they actually remedied that problem some years ago and its no longer necessary to do as they added a slight molded in spacer. The technique for properly setting up the switch mount charge plug is after the face plate is inserted but before the switch mount is screwed onto the main mount bolt, run the plug that is the charge lead out through the tunnel and then plug the lead that normally goes to the battery (female plug) around to the outside and into the charge lead. You could also use any female plug as this alignment guide. Now these two attached plugs are inserted back into the tunnel and are used to position the pair perfectly before the pinch bolt is tightened onto the charge lead.

John

I will offer my opinion on this,I have had trouble so many times on the switch charge jack combo I AM DONE WITH THEM !

It is so easy to make an access hatch with a lid that is held aligned with pins, and held closed with magnets. pull it off and there is tons of room for the switch and the charge wire. Which I like loose and flexible.

Many times people say "Thats cool how you even made simulated access panels", and then they are really impressed when they see it is actually functional.

Just buy the ESM switchs with the charge jack already built in. About as simple as it gets.

I use Electrodynamics switches and like them. Available from Hangtimes and other places.

Hi Thanks for your replies guys, I guess there is no magic bullet solution. John, I am installing a dubro switch tonight, I will try your trick on it. I may try the access hatch on my CAT Foodstick as it has a nice roomy fuse. Not sure what a ESM switch is raptureboy, couldn't find anything googling it. I like the looks of the Electrodynamics switches Al, will have to try one and see.

Thanks guys,

Calvi

Rapture boy I found some IMS items on tower, I am checking it out now.

Everybody has their favorites. I've tried many things and I prefer separate switch and charge jack mounts. I like the DuBro Kwik Switch mount http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD664 and the Ernst Charge Receptacle http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXE963 , available for most radio systems. I mount the two of them next to each other. It's a simple pull/push, on/off switch and the charge jack has a nice rubber closure to keep out the exhaust if you're old school like me.

Just my druthers. There are lots of choices.

Dave

Check out this site. They have what you are looking for. http://www.electrodynam.com/rc/index.shtml

Well folks I think I am going to try the EMS switch, it will be available locally. I like the molded in charging jack, should be idiot proof :p I would like to try the Electrodynam products sometime, but will have to wait until I have a sizable order to make it worth the shipping.

Calvi

I used to use the push/pull on off switch by Dubro for years. I had also heard rumors of instances where the switch turned off due to vibration. I didn't believe them until I had it happened to me. I was running a pattern plane secured by the tail in the run-up area. At some point I lost throttle control, shut the engine down manually, and then discovered the switch was off. Happened again. We then tried again a third time and actually watched the pull/push switch slowly walk itself out to off. I stopped using them from then on. You could not have convinced me that this was possible, but it was.

Kurt

Yikes! thank goodnes you caught that on the ground Kurt, I have had two mystery crashes, where the plane just seems to stop responding, thought they were battery related(one was the only time I have forgotten my meter) I had two flights on my Hienkel HE 100 and was flying with the flaps deployed for most of the second flight. It was my first plans build and I did not think to set up the servo arm to straight arm the flaps when down, so who knows it just slowly dove(at about 70mph) into the ground with me bending the elevator stick back!:(

Calvi

You have probably already ordered your switch but I have used these in a couple of applications and they have a built in "on" led. They are heavy duty but can be used anywhere. Also check out their other products. This place also has the best servo extensions money can buy.
http://www.taildraggerrc.com/heavy-d...20-awg-wiring/

That's an interesting point Kurt and something I have never had happen. Curious since I use the Dubro for virtually everything except the pylon racers where I always used an internal mount with just a tiny wire with a ninety degree bend sticking out for low drag and do have one of those fancy combo switchs on my first turbine now (the one thing I hate about those is they require such humongous cutouts in the airplane).

So the problem Kurt described got me thinking, what am I doing perhaps differently? Well hmm, the push/pull rod which comes with the Dubro is a rather tight fit in the hollow bolt as it come out of the package and I have always been in the habit of drilling out the bolt just a little with a letter drill for totally free movement. Maybe this is why I have never ran across this problem? Don't know. Anyway the Dubro is still may favorite.:cool:

John

John,

I would agree that drilling out the dubro switch is the key to prevention.

Kurt

like the idea of the light and wonder why more are'nt made that way. I killed a good life battery leaving it on. I have used a combination of the access hatch with the charge/switch and air valve hidden in there. Many good ways to skin a cat :cool:

[QUOTE=Calvinman;11916315]Hi,

I was wondering what people are using for a switch mount these days, I am looking for one that has the charging lead hatch or something. The ones I have been using seem to be a real challenge to get the charging lead to sit in the recess properly, and have started just pulling the lead out and have it dangle in the wind. Can't remember the brand I usually use, but it seems to require adding shims so the charging lead has a space around it so the charging lead from the charger/tester can slip into the hole.

bad brad graphics.com is a good place for the switch with led light

Thanks once again for all the great suggestions guys, I settled on the EMS heavy duty switch, it was less than $20 and in stock at our LHS, our LHS is great they will match any online price. some of there stuff is not price matched but oh well, they have it in stock so I don't mind when an item is a little overpriced.;) I Like the switch and it mounted in the cutout of the inside fuse doubler of my US40 perfectly(had to cut off the bottom of the inside switch retainer)

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2050019http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2050020

pics of installed switch

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2050022http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/atta...mentid=2050023

Calvi

Awesome. Good on ya for supporting your local hobby shop. I do it whenever possible.
I don't know if you are aware of these, but safety locks are good to use for servo extensions and especially batteries. They keep them from coming unplugged.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXXWK7&P=ML

Hey Pamster, I will have to grab some of those servo locks, thanks

Heat shrink works well also for locks.

Yes it does, unless you need to unplug them.

That is what we have scissors for, duh....