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landing gear wire
I build from plans and have a problem with my landing gear wire not being a strong as you get in kits. On my Kaos 90 I use 1/8" and it gets bent on every 'not so good' landing. I keep extras in my field box. I use cold rolled steel. It seems the hot rolled is more soft and you can't solder it. I even tried to heat treat them and then they would snap off. Any ideas?? I know larger would be better, but trying to understand why the wire in the kits are so much stiffer.
Skyhawk Sandusky, OH |
Most folks use K&S Music Wire for landing gear, not cold rolled steel. In round numbers, music wire is about 60 times harder, 4 times more elastic, and 50 times stronger (tensile strength) than the cold rolled steel.
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On a 90 size Kaos you should be using at least 5/32".
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plans called for 1/8"
Skyhawk |
OK, I was just trying to help your with your problem. Good luck.
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On the KAOS 90 plan on Outerzone, it calls for 3/16” music wire. |
it is 3/16" not 1/8" I was wrong. Will try using real music wire and see. I'll bet that's the problem. The wire at Lowe's is too soft. Guy's, thanks for the help. Next question, can you solder music wire?? My steering arm is soldered on.
Skyhawk |
Yes you can. Do a search on soldering music wire landing gears. However for a steerable nosegear I would prefer the set screw steering arm over soldering. Rig the gear. Then find the location of the set screw and file a flat spot on the gear wire. Just a thought. I see steering arms for 5/32”. You may have to search for a 3/16” arm. Good luck. |
I sand (or wire brush) the area to be soldered until it is nice and shiny and wipe down with alcohol, then wrap the 2 pieces with thin single strand copper wire. I use Stay-Brite silver solder because its a little stronger than regular solder and the liquid flux does a better job getting in the nooks and crannies. I also use a 246/260W Weller soldering gun or sometimes a small butane torch (got to get the metal hot) although I've heard people say they can solder music wire with a regular soldering iron. I can't. If you use Stay-Brite, make sure you wash the joint down well with ammonia (or windex with ammonia) to prevent the flux from corroding the wire over time.
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I see no benefit to soldering on a nose gear arm. File a flat for the set screw and Loctite it in place. It's so much easier and can be removed if you ever need to.
The only things I have ever soldered aside from servo extensions are mounts for floats and Y type elevator pushrods. |
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