correct type of solder?
 

OK solder experts, what is the best type of solder to use for a mechanical (non current carrying) application such as solder clevises or tail bracing wires? Also, I would like to know what is the best for electrical connections such as batteries, bannana plugs, etc.. Any info or tips on soldering are needed and welcome.

RE: correct type of solder?
 

For electrical it's solder with fulx center, not acid core. I think the alloy is usually around 68/32, which provides a low melting temperature and is less likely to damage temperature sensitive parts.

I don't know much about solders for mechanical structures. Electronic grade solder is not a good choice. High temperature silver solder or brazing metal is much better I understand.

RE: correct type of solder?
 

For non-electrical, Stay-Brite is very good for what we do.....control rod fittings, landing gear wires, etc. It has some silver content but can be done with a normal soldering iron. Acid core is also pretty adequate for the same applications, if done properly.

Clair

RE: correct type of solder?
 

For the amount of silver-soldering most modelers will do... just get the "syringe" of paste silver solder from Radio Shack. One syringe will do the 4 joints in cabanes for a .60 size biplane with some left over.

You definitely want a silver-bearing solder for landing gear or other structural joints on the model. Its MUCH stronger than tin-lead solders.

If you are going to be doing a couple of models a month that need the silver-solder joints... I know someone to ask about the source for the stuff at a bulk rate. (1 lb minimum... and that would be fairly expensive...)

RE: correct type of solder?
 

ditto on silver

RE: correct type of solder?
 

Tim- Rosin core solder is used on all electrical connections. I also use it on clevices, etc.
I think what gives some people the biggest problem is cleanliness and heat. After you've thorougly cleaned the parts to be soldered to bare, shiny metal, don't even touch it unless you're wearing clean cotton gloves. Look at the solder, it may also need to be cleaned.
You'll need an iron large enough for the job- say 100 watt. The iron's tip will have to be 'tinned', which is simply heating the iron and flowing a thin layer of solder onto the tip's soldering surface. Again remembering cleanliness. This aids in heat transfer.
Apply the iron directly to the part to be soldered, allowing the heated metal to melt the solder and flow into the void. Clean the soldered joint with alcohol and look at it real close. A good connection will be shiny and bright. A bad one will be a dull grey.
I avoid using a propane torch because I feel that it will either oxidize or carbonize the connection. - Jim

RE: correct type of solder?
 

One of the easiest to use is the Staybrite Silver solder but you can also use acid core solder on the structural stuff like landing gear and flying wires, just be sure to thoroughly clean it after soldering or corrosion will undue all your work in a short time. As mentioned above, clean, clean and then clean some more before soldering to get a good joint. You do need a good iron of at least 60 to 100 watts for good soldering on music wire or similar material.

RE: correct type of solder?
 

A lot depends on the mechanical connection. You can use acid core tin-lead solder or silver solder. Electrical connections use resin cored solder mostly tin-lead, but some of the newer lead free solder use 245 resin in it.

RE: correct type of solder?
 

I have been soldering since I was a kid (I grew up in this sport, as my dad has always been a flier) and where airplane soldering is concerned, I have never used anything but plain ol' electrical soldering. Servo wires, clevises, and landing gear, it's all the same.

Read the "How To" I wrote for RCU Magazine:

http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/a...article_id=172

RE: correct type of solder?
 

hi

for electrical connections use rosin core solder and for mechanical non electrical connections the best is silver solder. this takes a special flux. heat the joint and not the solder, let the joint melt the solder so it flows smoothly over joint.

on battery pack again rosin solder and I cut thin brass strips and solder to batteries to construct a pack. the best method here is to apply solder <tin> the top and bottom of battery and do the same to brass strips <a small spot of solder on each end> then the can attach strip to batteries quickly avoiding over heating batteries.

good luck
joe