control rod installation
 

I would like feedback on what people think is the best contol rod installation for primarily elevator, and rudder. Quck links, Easy links, z- bends Gold n rods? Too many choices for us new folks. Whet is the safest and most secure. I have been told by some that quick links are ok however others say definitely not. Help!!!

RE: control rod installation
 

I tried to make a z bend a few times. Couldn't do it well so I found what I think is a good alternative.

For control surfaces I like a 90 degree bend with these locks to keep the wire from coming out of the servo arm.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK086&P=0

The various 'screw lock' connectors that use a set screw in a brass body to secure the rod get a lot of bad press. I like them for throttle and for nose gear steering. I have seen them used on control surfaces with no issues at all. My brother had them on every surface of a Big Stik 40 for about 4 years. When the plane expired, it wasn't due to these connectors. The nylon pin in the elevator clevis wore out and broke. He learned the hard way that clevises and control horns require periodic inspection and replacement.

RE: control rod installation
 

I use all of the above.
On planes like simple electrics where everything is out in the open, z-bent steel ends, wrapped and CA'd to CF pushrods work fine.
Z-bends at the servo, clevis at the surface for others.
Keepers instead of z-bends. The wire is bent 90 degrees only
Wheel collars instead of keepers..
There is no one "best" way to do it.

RE: control rod installation
 

I like the Gold-N-Rods. You can run/route them just about anyplace and for the throttle control you do not have to be concerned about rfi from a metal connection all the way to the servo. The key to the Gold-N-Rods is to support them not only at the ends, but along the run of the rod also. I much prefer the metal clevises (Sullivan) with the "safety clip" to any other type. One suggestion with the Gold-N-Rods: Pick up a bunch of 2-56 nuts and put one on the clevis end, then jam it against the clevis and secure it with a drop of locktite.

For connectors I have used z bends, 90 degree bends and "quick connectors". Of the 3 I prefer the "quick connectors". They are easy to instal and adjustments are super easy. One thing I STRONGLY suggest with quick connectors is to use a drop of locktite on the locking screw. I use the locktite and have not had a single lock screw loosen up or setting change from slippage

RE: control rod installation
 

You'll get all kinds of differnt personal opinions concerning the EZ connectors. I use them on nose wheel steering and throttle. For elevator and rudder I prefer the rod to be a carbon fiber shaft with 4-40, or 2-56 rod threaded at one end and a Dubro HD clevis at the control surface. As for the servo, I like to use a ball joint. The type that uses a small nut and screw to attach.

RE: control rod installation
 

All of the methods you described work fine. Pick the one that you think will suit you best.

Personally, I find the easiest way to go is a clevis at the control horn end, and an EZ connector or the "FasLinks" (that Carrellh pictured above) for the servo end.

As far as pushrods go, I have used all of the ones mentioned (Also DuBro Laser Rods) and they all work well

RE: control rod installation
 

I'll utter my old song and dance about Z-bends: we don't use 'em on full size aircraft and I'm not about to use them on my models (with the exception of something like a foamy). About the only good thing I can say about them is "they're simple & cheap". Other than that, they're pretty agricultural and crude IMO; sloppy, hard to deal with if you need to adjust the linkage, and did I mention crude?. Clevis, ball link or combinations thereof for my stuff depending on application.

RE: control rod installation
 

One good thing about those crude z-ends, in 25 years of flying, I've never had one come off. I can't say the same thing about ball joints, snapper keepers, wheel collars, etc. I use sullivan clevises on the horn end and those agricultural and crude z-ends on the servo end. If you set you plane up correctly, you should only need minor trim adjustments on the clevis end. I agree with Minn, I've used all of the afore mentioned methods, what ever works for you!