Using glass to join Monocote
 

How does one use a plate of glass when joining two pieces of Monocote? I would like to have a black leading edge on a yellow wing. I have seen posts where others have done this, but never a discription of the method. I understand the backing is removed and then the two pieces overlapped then ironed, but what iron and what temp? :confused:

Using glass to join Monocote
 

CB
The way I do it is; I overlap the edges about a 1/4" and use my trim seal iron set on high with the flat shoe installed.

You can use a regular iron set a little hotter than normal and just use the tip. You don't want to shrink the film just stick the two pieces together so just work the seam. The film don't burn as easy when smoothed out on the glass.

Make all your seams face the rear and towards the fuse, and put dark colors on top of light colors.

When I shrink the film I use a heat gun and go easy on and around the seams especially if they are over open bays.

DEG

Using glass to join Monocote
 

You only have to join the Monokote ahead of time on a piece of glass if it's going to span a void (i.e. when on the plane, there is nothing but air behind the seam). For what you describe, since most wings are sheeted on the leading edge, it would probably be a lot easier to cover the entire wing in yellow, then apply the black on top of the yellow, on the wing.

Using glass to join Monocote
 

I remove the backing on the lighter color, and stretch it out on the glass holding in place at each end with tape. I then overlap about 1/4" with the darker color and also tape in place. Then using MonoKote Trim Solvent, I dampen a rag (do not make wet) fold the dark color back and apply to the light color you will hardly see any difference but when you place the darker color down it will set very permanent start in the middle and work both ways toward the ends. (I allow several hrs before removing). It will be like one piece with two colors.

Using glass to join Monocote
 

Hello... At our club meeting an expert on Monokote covering put on a demonstration. I had just finished covering my first plane so this is HIS info. You can try this with a test piece and will only cost you about 1 square foot of Monokote. He makes what he calls "skins", and then applies them to the surface. A skin is the completed design and colors on the BASE color, then this "skin" is aligned and applied as normal on the surface to be covered. A large piece of glass will be needed. (as large as any oversized piece you would normally start with, like a wing panel or fuse side.) THIS WAS HIS PROCEDURE.... 1. mix about 1/2 teaspoon of Wisk or ? to water in spray bottle. (adjust the amount of soap content so when you spray it on the glass it "lays flat" and doesn't "bead up". Start by spraying a coating of this mixture on the glass. 2. Put down your "base color" (your sq.ft. of "test" Monokote) and squeege out as much water as possible. He had a LARGE piece of balsa tri-stock he has used for years. (it doesn't scratch with pressure) 3. Take a small piece of scrap.. make a star or whatever. Spray water mix on the test square you have just applied to the glass, and apply your design piece. Squeege out all the water under it too. 4.. Take your sealing iron, he
set his at 350+, and iron it to the base. He had a sock on the iron and it looked as if he appied pretty much pressure???. Let this sit for 24 hours. I assume for any water under it to dry out..
You now have a "skin" prepared for application. Evidently it doesn't shrink??? He prepares all of his skins and then starts covering the plane. He is well respected as a covering guru in this
club and he had a beautiful plane on display he had just finished. Try it..... it won't cost much to experiment, and it may be just what you need. Happy Landings..... lownslo..... Bob

Article
 

There is an article on my web page that describes the process that I have used for doing 2 - color covering schemes.

Howard