Ofna buggy not starting...
07-29-2015, 03:07 PM
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Ofna buggy not starting...
I'm a newbie and trying to start my ofna buggy, can someone give me a step by step of exactly how to start a nitro? I put the glow plug igniter in, dribbled a few drops of nitro in the carb and turned it over with my drill and it won't fire up. Any thoughts???
07-30-2015, 09:20 AM
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Firstly, running one of these little engines can be quite a steep learning curve...stick with it and be patient and if in doubt ask.
I will try to cover most bases here....but there are no set rules/procedures that everyone will follow...everyone has their own little way...
When an engine is new it is advisable to check the carburettor settings...if you have them in your manual then check how they are set currently and compare to what the manual is telling you...note what they were and set as manual suggests (if you do not have a manual then either search Google or tell us what engine it is).
Ensure you have the correct nitro percentage fuel for your engine and the correct glow plug (spare plugs will be handy because breaking in an engine usually involves running a rich mixture...and that rich mixture damages plugs).
Ensure the glow igniter is fully charged and the glow plug is glowing when put into the igniter.
(Also you should check the full operation of the servos and failsafe...tighten every nut/bolt/screw on the model before proceeding).
So now we are going to start the engine....
Fill the fuel tank...not overfull...ensure the fuel tank lid shuts correctly (it has to form a seal).
Priming the engine with fuel (I note you are putting some fuel down the carb. neck...whilst this can work it is not the method I would suggest...keep the air filter attached at all times).
There are a couple of different ways to prime the engine with fuel:
1- remove the pressure pipe that runs between the exhaust and fuel tank...remove it from the exhaust end....and then blow down it...you should see fuel running along the fuel line between the fuel tank and engine..continue to blow until fuel reaches the carb. and then a tadge more...refit the pressure pipe to the exhaust. (note sometimes opening the throttle fully will assist when blowing).
2- put your finger over the end of the exhaust outlet and then crank the engine over...as you are using a roto start then just blip the starter/drill until fuel reaches the carb and then a bit...
Turn on the transmitter...and then the receiver (controller and car..TX-RX).....advance the throttle trim on the transmitter....stand the car on a block so that the wheels are not touching the ground.
Attach glow igniter....wait a few seconds...then try to start.
With a roto start or a drill you should only use short pulses to try to fire the engine...holding the drill/roto on may cause damage....so note here that if the engine at any time becomes flooded with fuel you need to stop....remove glow plug-turn engine/car upside down and then crank engine to remove excess fuel.
A few extra random notes-
If the engine is very tight then it can be a great help to firstly warm it up with a heat-gun or hair dryer (anything over 70 deg-celcius is a start)...also if there is a combination of tightness and high compression then loosening the glow plug a quarter turn will help...but remember to tighten it when started.
The engine should be at least firing (trying to start) within 5-10 pulses of the drill/roto..if not then something is wrong...(worth noting here- some drills will not have an adequate speed to crank the engine fast enough..and some will...if the drill has a clutch then start with the lowest setting first).
See how you get on...questions/problems then ask away...best of luck and it is not as complicated as I probably make it sound.
I will try to cover most bases here....but there are no set rules/procedures that everyone will follow...everyone has their own little way...
When an engine is new it is advisable to check the carburettor settings...if you have them in your manual then check how they are set currently and compare to what the manual is telling you...note what they were and set as manual suggests (if you do not have a manual then either search Google or tell us what engine it is).
Ensure you have the correct nitro percentage fuel for your engine and the correct glow plug (spare plugs will be handy because breaking in an engine usually involves running a rich mixture...and that rich mixture damages plugs).
Ensure the glow igniter is fully charged and the glow plug is glowing when put into the igniter.
(Also you should check the full operation of the servos and failsafe...tighten every nut/bolt/screw on the model before proceeding).
So now we are going to start the engine....
Fill the fuel tank...not overfull...ensure the fuel tank lid shuts correctly (it has to form a seal).
Priming the engine with fuel (I note you are putting some fuel down the carb. neck...whilst this can work it is not the method I would suggest...keep the air filter attached at all times).
There are a couple of different ways to prime the engine with fuel:
1- remove the pressure pipe that runs between the exhaust and fuel tank...remove it from the exhaust end....and then blow down it...you should see fuel running along the fuel line between the fuel tank and engine..continue to blow until fuel reaches the carb. and then a tadge more...refit the pressure pipe to the exhaust. (note sometimes opening the throttle fully will assist when blowing).
2- put your finger over the end of the exhaust outlet and then crank the engine over...as you are using a roto start then just blip the starter/drill until fuel reaches the carb and then a bit...
Turn on the transmitter...and then the receiver (controller and car..TX-RX).....advance the throttle trim on the transmitter....stand the car on a block so that the wheels are not touching the ground.
Attach glow igniter....wait a few seconds...then try to start.
With a roto start or a drill you should only use short pulses to try to fire the engine...holding the drill/roto on may cause damage....so note here that if the engine at any time becomes flooded with fuel you need to stop....remove glow plug-turn engine/car upside down and then crank engine to remove excess fuel.
A few extra random notes-
If the engine is very tight then it can be a great help to firstly warm it up with a heat-gun or hair dryer (anything over 70 deg-celcius is a start)...also if there is a combination of tightness and high compression then loosening the glow plug a quarter turn will help...but remember to tighten it when started.
The engine should be at least firing (trying to start) within 5-10 pulses of the drill/roto..if not then something is wrong...(worth noting here- some drills will not have an adequate speed to crank the engine fast enough..and some will...if the drill has a clutch then start with the lowest setting first).
See how you get on...questions/problems then ask away...best of luck and it is not as complicated as I probably make it sound.
07-30-2015, 03:35 PM
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Thanks anthoop I really appreciate it! Used a blow drier and it fired right up! But it revved WAY up and took off through my room. Took it outside and tried again and it fired up and revved WAY to high again. So I need to find out how to adjust my idle. And as soon as I turn my electronics on it dies which tells me I also have to adjust the throttle trim and possibly servo
07-31-2015, 07:14 AM
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At least you got it running.
To fix the problem of high revs...
Pop the air filter off and measure the throttle gap (this is the small gap between the slide (or barrel, depending if slide or rotary carb.) and the inner edge of the carb.) by opening and closing the throttle and looking down the carb. neck you see a piece moving...measure the gap when the throttle is in the neutral position.
A normal starting point can be 1mm....so set the gap to 1mm with something round or roundish like a paper clip or allen key...etc...the minimum gap should be set with the idle screw (sometimes it has a spring on it and mounted at an angle near the carb. neck.....it can be helpful to set this with the servo linkage disconnected.
Once you have set the gap then reconnect and adjust the servo linkage to suit...it is usual to set the transmitter trim to a mid point turn both TX and RX on to centralise the servo...then adjust linkage.
Above all remember that the idle screw must dictate the minimum gap and not the servo/linkage/trim...otherwise when you brake the engine will stall.
So..all that done.....if when you start it next time it is still revving high...or if it is too low-
You can adjust the idle screw again...obviously turning the screw clockwise will increase idle rpm and vice versa...but you can also alter the LSN setting and that will increase or decrease the air to fuel ratio...if you turn the LSN clockwise then idle rpm will increase and vice versa.
Again, check the needle settings (LSN+HSN (Low Speed Needle+ High Speed Needle))...compare what the engine is currently set at to what the manual is telling you...usually the manual settings are rich but not always.
To fix the problem of high revs...
Pop the air filter off and measure the throttle gap (this is the small gap between the slide (or barrel, depending if slide or rotary carb.) and the inner edge of the carb.) by opening and closing the throttle and looking down the carb. neck you see a piece moving...measure the gap when the throttle is in the neutral position.
A normal starting point can be 1mm....so set the gap to 1mm with something round or roundish like a paper clip or allen key...etc...the minimum gap should be set with the idle screw (sometimes it has a spring on it and mounted at an angle near the carb. neck.....it can be helpful to set this with the servo linkage disconnected.
Once you have set the gap then reconnect and adjust the servo linkage to suit...it is usual to set the transmitter trim to a mid point turn both TX and RX on to centralise the servo...then adjust linkage.
Above all remember that the idle screw must dictate the minimum gap and not the servo/linkage/trim...otherwise when you brake the engine will stall.
So..all that done.....if when you start it next time it is still revving high...or if it is too low-
You can adjust the idle screw again...obviously turning the screw clockwise will increase idle rpm and vice versa...but you can also alter the LSN setting and that will increase or decrease the air to fuel ratio...if you turn the LSN clockwise then idle rpm will increase and vice versa.
Again, check the needle settings (LSN+HSN (Low Speed Needle+ High Speed Needle))...compare what the engine is currently set at to what the manual is telling you...usually the manual settings are rich but not always.
08-21-2015, 09:54 PM
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i have done all the steps here. And it still wont turn on! Help what I'am doing wrong? I got it to turn on for just a sec and turns off when the pull string goes back in place. After that nothing...
08-24-2015, 08:22 AM
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