toystory_4wd

ALLLRIGHT!!! I hit a hobby shop in my weekend travels and picked up some appropriate fuel, knocked together a test/break-in stand and got the beast running! Unbelieveable. Motor sits in a relatives' garden shed for 18 years including Canadian winters, mouse nests and all, having never, ever been started, and away it goes. I'm thrilled! Let the build proceed! EDIT- Thought I'd mention that before I attempted to start it for the first time, I took the head off to examine- absolutely sparkled like it was right out of the box! Factory oil coating worked perfectly!

Phoenixangel

Man thats like finding the $100 bill in the coat from last winter... Gratz !!

Mr Cajun Gator

I feel your excitement. Once its on a boat the excitement will only be MORE!!!

Nitrofin

Man , that is a great find , nothing like a quality motor.
NF.

toystory_4wd

Oh yeah, the juices are flowin' now! When I first got the engine and started drawing and gathering materials, I was thinking, "this oughta be neat." But I really was unsure about the old engine and was somewhat skeptical about it. I didn't want to get TOO into the build without being sure the engine was any good. I put the test stand together last Saturday after buying the fuel and spent a couple hours tinkering and trying to start it. It wouldn't go, and that took alot of the enthusiasm out of me. I had a couple of D cells and some alligator clips. Now, the next day I drove 45 mins to a swap meet I'd heard about and picked up a few goodies including a big, honkin' 2 volt gel cell glow ignitor, came home, and she lit right up. Turns out the D cells I had just weren't pushing enough juice. Well, this put the wind back in my sails, I'll tell ya, what a relief! So the build continues!
Cheers! Chris

RS 38-40

My Feedback: (3)

Check out your glow plug as it may be a 2 volt plug and not a 1 1/2 volt . If you put to much juice into it it will burn out . Nice looking ole motor .

kersplat

One important thing to know, That engine is either an OS 35, or 40 Fp. These engines came in ABN versions and the earlier ones had iron pistons in steel cylinders. The ABN ones break in easy, the iron pistoned ones require the olde style "heat cycle" method of break in. The way you can distinguish is that on the side opposite the exhaust, if it is somewhat a smooth contour, it is ABN. If there is a noticeable bump where the boost port is, it is the Iron pistoned version. Run it rich for break in if it has the iron piston,( with cooling off periods in between runs).

asmithnc

Glad to see the wind back in your sails. Remember pics of your progress!

toystory_4wd

It IS a 1.5 volt plug, I ended up using a resistor from an old mechanical speed control to keep from overfeeding the plug when I got the gel cell. The D-cells were not new, and just weren't up to snuff. The engine's an OS .40 FP, and I don't see any weird bumps on it. I couldn't get a manual for it, so I got the manual for the slightly newer LA version and was intending to break in as such. (rich). The only odd thing about the manual is that it tells you to turn the needle 180 degrees rich from the "optimum" setting for a tankfull to break in, yet on another page it suggests that when it's set that rich, the engine will be four-cycling (fine, I can live with that on the test bench) AND the engine may die if the glow plug is disconnected at a setting that rich. If I find that it DOES die, should I A)Leave the power on the glow plug B)Lean it out a little at a time 'till it'll run on it's own and run a tankful at that setting. I'm kind of inclined to go with B. Any thoughts? Thanks! Chris

bayward

Quality is not the best. The file is really a .pdf file. Download the file and change the extension from txt to pdf.

toystory_4wd

okay, the quality's a little rough- but I thank you very much, all the same! I just read it through, and it has the same issue as the LA manual I've got, so- am I better to lean out slightly, or leave the plug juiced for the entire first tankful of fuel? Thanks, everyone- Chris