Notices
RC Boats General Discussion Discuss general rc boating topics here.

bait boat

Old 06-07-2020, 03:20 AM
  #1  
Burnt Chips
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Manchester UK
Posts: 17
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default bait boat

I acquired an old Angling Technics Microcat bait boat (a rc controlled boat that carry's your hook and baits to a desired point then releases them) now the model had generic faults (leaks) and at over 800.00 a boat it wasn`t a real problem ! they provided holes in the top hull to drain your boat after taking your baits out (quality). but with the upgrade from original 4ch 40mhz to 6 or 8 ch 2.4ghz depending on how many ch`s needed for items like gps and autopilots its trebled the radio working distance 300mtrs + is now possible
but by the time your boats out now in choppy water your boats in peril.
the boat is big over 600 long and 350 wide, and two hulls/pontoons, each pontoon has 2 x Rule sump pumps 4 in total as drive/steering at the rear of the hulls, and 2 lead acid battery's in the middle of the hulls,( so making it rear heavy). and fully loaded this boat runs on in the water on the joining line between top hull and bottom, with the rear always running lower, after it became a submarine 1 night I decided to split the seals between top and bottom hull and see where water ingress was coming from, I found 3, the 2 door releases for the bait 500 long and 120 wide were spring loaded screws the went through 2x 15mm hole in the bottom of hull at the rear these were packed with grease and neoprene foam on the outside, the release screw had to move laterally about 10mm for gravity to let the door open. these were controlled by some kind of metal wire that heated up and pulled tight on the spring release, so I whipped them out and filled the holes, and put the door release mech on hold to sort out the other water entry points, the drain hole in the top hull were filled ,as any wave over 40mm had water getting in through them, leaving the battery bays, now the top hull has a 30mm at most profile curving down to zero at hull join line,so really any break in the silicone sealant holding the top/bottom together would leave a loaded boat in peril. now the battery covers were oblong boxes (imaging a electrical circuit box and turn it side on)and where the cover should go that's left open for the battery Velcro` d in place, this drops into a hole 240mm x 90mm on either side of the curved hull top. So any water that splash`s above the battery hatch has no way to not get into the boat as water runs downhill, now ive looked at ways to form a lip on the openings so that the hatch cover is actually draining externally but this may take a lot of filler ( more weight) many other owners of this boat have Velcro`d Perspex sheets over these battery hatch`s to stop this problem, but they look like dogs**t, after all the only reason this is not in the trash bin right now is it looks sexy to me (and covering in a plastic bag doesn`t float my boat) but I will still be left with release doors problem, anything below the water line ive tried leaks. the doors are made of 2mm aluminium 500x120 at a 45% angle downward and a flimsy separation/divider in the middle of the boat running the full length, its not structural so nothing can be fitted to this to release. maybe some kind of magnet that fits inside the pontoon and some steel bracket rivoted to the upper part of door that releases when power any help along those lines, the other option if its even possible (I know nothing about ABS properties) is to extend the height of the hull by about 24mm, do they do abs angle ? if it could be done I`d need something like 40mm x 5mm x 1mm as the lower hull has a 5 mm lip that joins to top hull fit on the inside and fill the outside before spraying (can you spray abs ) well any ideas will all be absorbed specially what can and can`t be done with ABS Dave.

Last edited by Burnt Chips; 06-08-2020 at 02:45 AM.
Old 06-10-2020, 06:08 PM
  #2  
Got RPM
 
Got RPM's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: AZ
Posts: 857
Received 10 Likes on 10 Posts
Default

Your post is almost impossible to read without punctuation. Sorry, but I don’t really understand your problem or what you want the forum members to do....



.
Old 06-10-2020, 10:39 PM
  #3  
Burnt Chips
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Manchester UK
Posts: 17
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

I wanted to know


(a) can ABS be glued/welded, as I need (if possible) to raise the lower section of the hull by at least 24mm, to get the hull joint out of the waterline
(b) can it be filled ? and if so with what ? will it be permanent or fall out.
(c) can it be sprayed ?

as for the release doors, these are under the waterline, what the manufacture did was bend the front and rear edge of the doors up, and drill 2 holes in them.
Then fixed and sealed 2 x m3 bolts through the inside of the front and rear hull into these holes (a simple hinge) its the release mech I`m struggling with. I've been working on the idea of 1/4in brass tube, fixed to each door, connected to 2 servos laid on there side, with servo couplers and setting the servo travel in the Tx to fully close and open, but the brass rod will be entering the hull underwater and have to spin, can it be sealed ? ,or does anyone know of a magnetic way as already stated like an electro magnet in each pontoon that are permanently magnetic and when I send a signal from tx it demagnetises and issac newton does the rest.

Last edited by Burnt Chips; 06-10-2020 at 10:42 PM.
Old 06-11-2020, 01:00 AM
  #4  
mfr02
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Blackpool Lancs, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 1,432
Likes: 0
Received 32 Likes on 32 Posts
Default

A rod through a brass tube is almost a description of a prop shaft. These tend to have a layer of water repellant grease between shaft and tube. It also helps greatly if the inside end of the shaft is above the water, since water, by itself, doesn't run uphill.
Yes, ABS can be glued, it does need some shopping round and experimentation because there are varios plastics that pass themselves off as "ABS". Plumbing solvents are generally thought good for chemical welding. Epoxy can work, but that becomes a mechanical join, and needs careful surface preparation. Do a lot of looking for hints, tips and suppliers for "Stablit Express".
On a very recent repeat of a car refurb show on TV, a plastic nose from a BMW was shown having a couple of cracks repaired using a resin kit. The cracks were cleaned and rebated, and a few holes either side countersunk, then the resin was applied to a mesh backing and pressed onto the back of the panel. Crack filled, self formed rivets through the countersunk holes.
With the right surface preparation (surface keying, primer), almost anything can be sprayed.
The following users liked this post:
Burnt Chips (06-11-2020)
Old 06-11-2020, 11:01 AM
  #5  
cheapsub
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: brooklyn, NY
Posts: 81
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default


Pushed the wrong button.

Last edited by cheapsub; 06-11-2020 at 11:29 AM.
Old 06-11-2020, 11:26 AM
  #6  
cheapsub
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: brooklyn, NY
Posts: 81
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

Have not get the idea of bait boat.
But this I got.

Could you post some pictures of the boat and Transmitter.
See if this submarine guy, unsubmarine your boat.

Number 1 problem, battery! Change to Li-po.
40 mhz may work better on water.
put the 2.4GHz receiver in the wrong place in the boat. Hello Neptune.

800 pound for a boat?
I could build one with 2x4. On the cheap. ( that's a joke)
Old 06-11-2020, 12:35 PM
  #7  
Burnt Chips
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Manchester UK
Posts: 17
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

The brass rod 1/4in is a means to an end, I could only find 1 supplier in the world of straight out servo couplers and that was in the USA and that was 1/4in hence imperial measurement. straight out servo meant I could use the servo to control the speed of door opening and close doors before returning the boat, as 2 doors open in the water cause extra drag, and extra steering, +tube could slip onto the m3 bolts at the front already there. the problem with this design is a 1/4 hole in the hull that has the tube going through and it need to spin half a turn, how can it be sealed ?, Hence why i said any ideas on electro magnets .I've tried posting piccys but I`m getting you must post 10 before you can, just type in Angling technics microcat and you will see many, Also I have changed to Lipo already but as I've stated if you see any piccys its so rear heavy and batterys seat in the middle.
Old 06-11-2020, 10:56 PM
  #8  
cheapsub
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: brooklyn, NY
Posts: 81
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
Default

My type of fishing!

Make 10 posts here with a happy face .
one minute , I am a rc submarine nuts, seal a 1/4 inch, correction 3mm control arm hole easy! O ring!
(British brain wash me as kid to use inch and metric at the same time, get to US, have to dump all the metric.
have to end up with a job must relearn metric again. should keep the chinese one.)

DIY no shipping.


If needed ask him sale you a new one.

Just another thing make a. Servo waterproof, put it outside the boat and do what's ever you need it to be.


Try not to put any holes under the water line.
The following users liked this post:
Burnt Chips (06-12-2020)
Old 06-12-2020, 12:55 AM
  #9  
mfr02
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Blackpool Lancs, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 1,432
Likes: 0
Received 32 Likes on 32 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Burnt Chips View Post
The brass rod 1/4in is a means to an end, I could only find 1 supplier in the world of straight out servo couplers and that was in the USA and that was 1/4in hence imperial measurement. straight out servo meant I could use the servo to control the speed of door opening and close doors before returning the boat, as 2 doors open in the water cause extra drag, and extra steering, +tube could slip onto the m3 bolts at the front already there. the problem with this design is a 1/4 hole in the hull that has the tube going through and it need to spin half a turn, how can it be sealed ?, Hence why i said any ideas on electro magnets .I've tried posting piccys but I`m getting you must post 10 before you can, just type in Angling technics microcat and you will see many, Also I have changed to Lipo already but as I've stated if you see any piccys its so rear heavy and batterys seat in the middle.
So - are you trying to use the tube as a push/pull rod? Or does it just sit there and twist?
Whichever, you need an outer tube. The inner tube does the work, the "sliding fit" outer acts as a bearing and is sealed into the hole in the hull. Or you can use your tube as a tube, and use a stainless steel bicycle wheel spoke as the rod.
"Straight out servo". Is that a "Linear" servo? While nice, not really needed. An ordinary servo swings its arm in an arc, but enough unsupported rod will offer enough play to accomodate the swing. A thinner rod will flex better than a 1/4" monster, but still do the job.
If you give us a clue as to your whereabouts (in your profile), it will help a lot advising about possible suppliers of the bits you need. If I do a search for a supplier from the UK, google knows where I am and gives me UK suppliers.
The following users liked this post:
Burnt Chips (06-12-2020)
Old 06-12-2020, 03:59 AM
  #10  
Burnt Chips
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Manchester UK
Posts: 17
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

the rod is basically the spine of a hinge, fixed along the outer edge of the door, resting on the m3 bolt at the front, the servo is laid on its side (inside the back spanning section of the boat)with a straight servo to 1/4 coupler, so servo travel spins the door, its very tight for space in this area 40mm high and 50mm front to back, so I first attempted with micro servos, even 3.5kg torque metal geared micro servos, the leverage on direct drive of the servo from the 500mm doors obliterated the servo`s.
So I modified this section spanning the rear hull to be able to fit 2x13.5kg standard size servos on there side.
(spanning section is basically 2 x 600x 100mm pontoons with a front and back section 40mm deep hold the pontoons together) this under load drops 10/20mm below waterline. and doors are hinged at the lowest point.
I looked at mr subs shaft seal link and it got my brain working again, and have just ordered some 7mm brass rod off fleabay .its internal is the same as my rod so it will be tight, but cannot find anything 6mm internal 7mm external as I type, I have seen 5/7 rubber o rings and will see if the servo is ok working this tight.
I live in sunny Manchester not too far from you

Last edited by Burnt Chips; 06-12-2020 at 04:04 AM.
Old 06-12-2020, 04:24 AM
  #11  
mfr02
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Blackpool Lancs, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 1,432
Likes: 0
Received 32 Likes on 32 Posts
Default

Thinking outside the box, Component-Shop do a range of quite nice small winches. Others have used them on model landing craft front ramps. Let the winch out, gravity drops the ramp, pull in, ramp gets lifted.
Winches operate just like a servo, but instead of being a direct drive offering about 90 dgrees of movement, have a proportional multi turn output and come in various configurations. 2,4,6 turns which gives a lot of scope for different travel using the supplied 1" drum. Advantage of a line and drum is that the drum can be where you want it, but the business end of the line can be where its needed. Since their primary use is as a sail winch on yachts, that is what they get advertised as, but they are quite versatile.
Some bike shops sell suitable seals, but mostly for smaller diameters. First use was for brake cables.

If the clouds over me were higher, I might be able to see the clouds over Manchester.
Old 06-12-2020, 06:07 AM
  #12  
Burnt Chips
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Manchester UK
Posts: 17
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Smile

Originally Posted by mfr02 View Post
Thinking outside the box, Component-Shop do a range of quite nice small winches. Others have used them on model landing craft front ramps. Let the winch out, gravity drops the ramp, pull in, ramp gets lifted.
Winches operate just like a servo, but instead of being a direct drive offering about 90 dgrees of movement, have a proportional multi turn output and come in various configurations. 2,4,6 turns which gives a lot of scope for different travel using the supplied 1" drum. Advantage of a line and drum is that the drum can be where you want it, but the business end of the line can be where its needed. Since their primary use is as a sail winch on yachts, that is what they get advertised as, but they are quite versatile.
Some bike shops sell suitable seals, but mostly for smaller diameters. First use was for brake cables.

If the clouds over me were higher, I might be able to see the clouds over Manchester.
Its NOT raining here at the moment

I Originally went along the winch path but there is no physical boat above the doors to fix anything too. looking from above its the hole between the 2 pontoons 500mm x200mm with a floppy divider to make it into 2 hoppers, with the doors free swinging on the 2 x m3 bolts.
I then decided to fit 2 servos (side on) in the front spanning section push/pull config and fixed 2 cranked steering arms (off a rc car) onto the doors pointing upwards, and servo pushed a m3 threaded extension into hole to keep closed, after 20 or so turns these started sheering, I deduced that servos don't like being so close to the (steering arm) about 5mm from servo horn and m3 extension was travelling up/down ever so slightly as well as in and out as desired and that was causing the sheer. there was no physical room to place the servo in a natural position where vertical movement could be eliminated completely. and didn't want to see this sheer happen after a put the top hull back on. So that's when I went for either some kind of magnetic release or low profile wing servo of rc plane, as the hole for the hinge (m3 bolt) is 5mm from the bottom of the span section and normal servo`s laid flat are nearly 10mm to centre of spline. micro servos are the right fit but not up to the task, So I got my heat gun out, and heated up the bottom of the rear span and formed the hull to allow the HD servos to line up with hinge holes. but this has distorted the back of the boat in places, hence I was asking can it be filled etc, I`m still not sure if this will even work yet, The servos will have to be resin` d in place as its a 1 hit, slide rod in from underneath to rear span, pull forward to locating m3 bolt, slide servo+coupler onto rod, and perma fix in place. Then when set spin boat over, fix rods to doors, spin back and lockup coupler grub screw in open or shut position aligning with the 2 dial/turns on handset, so in theory the slower I turn dial the slower the doors open, enabling bait to be spread over a bigger area instead of all 1 place. the 7mm outer tube is due in 6 days if in 7 you've not hear eureeka I`m taking up golf
Old 06-13-2020, 01:17 AM
  #13  
mfr02
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Blackpool Lancs, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 1,432
Likes: 0
Received 32 Likes on 32 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by Burnt Chips View Post
Its NOT raining here at the moment

I Originally went along the winch path but there is no physical boat above the doors to fix anything too. looking from above its the hole between the 2 pontoons 500mm x200mm with a floppy divider to make it into 2 hoppers, with the doors free swinging on the 2 x m3 bolts.
I then decided to fit 2 servos (side on) in the front spanning section push/pull config and fixed 2 cranked steering arms (off a rc car) onto the doors pointing upwards, and servo pushed a m3 threaded extension into hole to keep closed, after 20 or so turns these started sheering,
I deduced that servos don't like being so close to the (steering arm) about 5mm from servo horn and m3 extension was travelling up/down ever so slightly as well as in and out as desired and that was causing the sheer. there was no physical room to place the servo in a natural position where vertical movement could be eliminated completely. and didn't want to see this sheer happen after a put the top hull back on.
So that's when I went for either some kind of magnetic release or low profile wing servo of rc plane, as the hole for the hinge (m3 bolt) is 5mm from the bottom of the span section and normal servo`s laid flat are nearly 10mm to centre of spline. micro servos are the right fit but not up to the task, So I got my heat gun out, and heated up the bottom of the rear span and formed the hull to allow the HD servos to line up with hinge holes. but this has distorted the back of the boat in places, hence I was asking can it be filled etc, I`m still not sure if this will even work yet,
The servos will have to be resin` d in place as its a 1 hit, slide rod in from underneath to rear span, pull forward to locating m3 bolt, slide servo+coupler onto rod, and perma fix in place. Then when set spin boat over, fix rods to doors, spin back and lockup coupler grub screw in open or shut position aligning with the 2 dial/turns on handset, so in theory the slower I turn dial the slower the doors open, enabling bait to be spread over a bigger area instead of all 1 place.
the 7mm outer tube is due in 6 days if in 7 you've not hear eureeka I`m taking up golf
I took the liberty of spreading the block of text out a bit to make it easier for me to read.
Without seeing your boat (a few more posts, you get to post pictures) I'm still stuck with translating a description into a mental image. So-
You might be surprised at how far away a winch can be sited, and at how tight a bend the line can go round, especially if it has a decent amount of pull from the load. I mostly play with model yachts, where the big problem is keeping the lines under tension to stop the line tangling in light air. Not a problem with a door with with enough weight which provides its own tension.
A regular type servo can also be mounted remotely - the flyboys use a thing called a "snake", much like a bike brake cable to get round corners provided the turns are gentle enough.

Filling/fixing to uncertain plastic. I did, a while back, watch a guy welding a vacuum cleaner part using a soldering iron. I have no idea how effective it was, but I gathered that since he was in a repair shop, and had used the technique for some time, it probably worked. It probably needed a lot of practice, as well. Filling/repairing plastic - the Wheeler Dealers episode was only a few days ago on Freeview 12, and will no doubt be re-repeated again before long. Big Edd was fixing an elderly BMW front end using a backing mesh, some fancy resin and countersinking the holes so that the resin formed rivets. The special nature of the resin was that when set, it had rigidity matching that of the panel, so it would not be inclined to ping off if the panel ever got flexed.
A rod going through an oval hole and swinging sideways is a common problem on rudder linkages on fast boats and some yachts. The hole needs to be oval to avoid the swing causing the rod to foul the sides. On my Victoria (also ABS) I used a "bellows", a rubber concertina, glued to the ABS face of a panel over the oval slot where the rudder linkage exited the inside of the hull onto the after deck. Same thing used on bike brakes. The concertina part of the rubber is OK for rudder travel, but the right type of lube should allow the rod to slide through the bellows as well.
Old 06-14-2020, 01:57 AM
  #14  
Burnt Chips
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Manchester UK
Posts: 17
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default


I was mooching around YouTube yesterday and came across a dude who made his own ABS filler. He had used solvent cement and small chunks of ABS.
You cut your abs into small pieces in drop it into your glue, and it melts.
being a plumber I have literally pots of polypipe solvent weld, I emptied 60% out of pot and put in about 10 pieces in . 5 minutes shaking the pot (cap back on of course)
the clear glue turned black (still as runny as it original was) so I thickened it up by adding more abs, I was able to fill joint lines in the rear pontoons as they had started to split, ' the lower hull is not rigid and forgiving without the top hull on' 2 hours later I was able to Dremel/sand this glue/filler and it did not crack
Old 06-14-2020, 10:00 AM
  #15  
mfr02
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Blackpool Lancs, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 1,432
Likes: 0
Received 32 Likes on 32 Posts
Default

Thats actually near enough the recipe for plastic model cement - that stuff is the appropriate solvent with polystyrene chips dissolved into it to give a substance that attacks the plastic and evaporates, leaving a welded plastic-plastic join with modest gap filling properties. Super on joins that don't have a big surface area, but not good for laminating sheets together. The plastic tends to be eaten by the solvent on its way out. I would expect the same from ABS. Mixing your own you should be able to decide and get to whatever consistency you want.
If I'd known you were comfortable messing with solvents.....................
The following users liked this post:
Burnt Chips (06-14-2020)
Old 06-14-2020, 11:42 AM
  #16  
Burnt Chips
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Manchester UK
Posts: 17
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Originally Posted by mfr02 View Post
Thats actually near enough the recipe for plastic model cement - that stuff is the appropriate solvent with polystyrene chips dissolved into it to give a substance that attacks the plastic and evaporates, leaving a welded plastic-plastic join with modest gap filling properties. Super on joins that don't have a big surface area, but not good for laminating sheets together. The plastic tends to be eaten by the solvent on its way out. I would expect the same from ABS. Mixing your own you should be able to decide and get to whatever consistency you want.
If I'd known you were comfortable messing with solvents.....................

messing ? Solvents was my forte when I was younger a lot younger . at least I`m nearer the post threshold. also whilst working in my mancave today I found some alu rod (for fixing shower curtain rail to ceiling) it was 10mm external diameter but 6mm internal and I do mean exact fit,
So I cut 2x10mm lengths ,bored out side hull to 12mm so could align them as near perfect as possible and resin` d them in situ. tomorrow will be the test, I will report success or failure then
Old 06-14-2020, 12:22 PM
  #17  
Burnt Chips
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Manchester UK
Posts: 17
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Mr Sub 800 was when it was first introduced in the late 90`s, now its over 1k with a fishfinder/sonar. and if you want gps/autopilot 2k (for a ****ty built boat) its like a 1980`s skoda Estelle, cheap and cheerful (except this aint cheap) but in my opinion Angling Technics got the shape right, its ultra low profile, stealthy, and sexy. Its just built cheaply.
I am attempting to remedy this. Yes time has moved on and we want it to do more, but I don't want it to sink.
The idea of a baitboat was to deliver your hookbait (connected to your fishing rod) to a dedicated spot and drop it there, along with freebees
(extra baits to attract fish to the area) up too 100 yrds, now with 2.4ghz this can be up to 300yrds away. So under a tree on the opposite bank where the fish feel safe because no human can cast a bait there, is now possible.
Old 06-15-2020, 12:36 AM
  #18  
mfr02
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Blackpool Lancs, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 1,432
Likes: 0
Received 32 Likes on 32 Posts
Default

My first model boat when I came back to boats was a motorised Airfix Bismark. There being a lack of parts to do this that I could buy, I had to go for making my own. The prop shaft was a length of brass rod, with short lengths of aluminium tubing that was a sliding fit as bearings, carried in an aluminium tube that was a sliding fit over the bearings, with the bearings held in with a dab of epoxy. Worked great for a season. The next year I found that the aluminium had welded itself to the brass. I had been sailing in what was probably a sea water pool on Blackpool Prom, so the salt in the water probably didn't help.
I expect that your sailing water will be legally fresh, but if you have dissimilar metals in contact, that can create a problem.
Old 06-15-2020, 01:55 AM
  #19  
Burnt Chips
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Manchester UK
Posts: 17
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

Aluminium is probably the quickest metal to rust ( I've heard it starts almost instantaneously that's why its hard to solder/braze ) so it will react with the brass, I`m hoping that because ali rust is a usually in powder form, and the ali sleeve in my boat is only 10mm long, I`m hoping some WD40 will be enough to free the rod if it does seize itself together. the bore is near perfect to stop water penetration . Less than a 10th of a millimetre all round, which as you say may cause it to seize, but it wont be heat/friction seizure ,there can be literally no heat is generated in the short time of the 1/2 turn the brass rod has to travel , but chemical reaction between the 2 metals is in the lap of the gods.
Old 06-16-2020, 12:49 AM
  #20  
mfr02
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Blackpool Lancs, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 1,432
Likes: 0
Received 32 Likes on 32 Posts
Default

Silicon grease might be a better option. Lubes and is water resistant and tends to stay here you leave it.
On my small models I tend to use plastic tube as my bearings, on larger models, for the rudder tube, plastic. You can't get electrolytic corrosion with plastic.
One of my club members had a bow thruster problem a few years ago. If I remember right, there was an aluminium and brass combination that seized due to changes in ambient temperature. Seems they had differnt expansion coefficients, and at the wrong temperaure, it acted as a brake when one shrank on to the other.
Old 06-16-2020, 02:44 AM
  #21  
Burnt Chips
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Manchester UK
Posts: 17
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

well looks like I will have to find some plastic tube with a 6mm internal diameter, its not worth the risking that happening,specially before I seal and paint it. then have to reopen !. anyway I've also got to look at another set of servos to run the doors as the servo`s I have mg945 (I think 10kg rated ) have slip issues, when closed if I press gently down on the doors I hear the servo gears spin back, does this mean i need more powerful servos 20kg or even 30kg, or is this going to happen with every servo as I`m using them straight out as a hinge


at least I will be able to upload some piccys on the next post

Last edited by Burnt Chips; 06-16-2020 at 08:16 PM.
Old 06-16-2020, 03:19 AM
  #22  
Burnt Chips
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Manchester UK
Posts: 17
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default


this is a Angling Technics Ad photo. note the fact the water is like a millpond the boat is running slow, speed it up and watch the rear drop,and its only half full of bait and probably no fishing line/ hook and lead weight attached as these cause further lowering of the rear

Classic pay 1k for a boat and attempt to stop water ingress, by sticking 2 chunks of plastic over the battery doors and lord knows what this is on the rear to cover power switch aerial and charger socket. a toblerone pack painted black maybe.



these are commercially sold on fleabay to help the problem with battery hatch covers, but there only velcroed down which isnt any form of seal, might as well shuv a tarploene over it


Old 06-17-2020, 12:58 AM
  #23  
mfr02
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Blackpool Lancs, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 1,432
Likes: 0
Received 32 Likes on 32 Posts
Default

A servo works by looking at a signal coming in, and translating that to a voltage. It is at the same time looking at a voltage derived from its internal position sensor. If they don't match, it drives the motor until they do. If an external force causes the output arm to move, (fer instance, something pushing it), it will do its best to correct it by driving to the position that the input signal says it should be. A too weak servo on a yacht will always be needing to recorrect itself every time the wind shifts a bit. One reason why I like winches. They tend to stay where you left them, whatever the wind on the sails tries to do.
I still thnk I would have gone for winches, but mounted more inboard than the servos to give room for the pulleys to gear down the servo turns to what the door wants.

Hatches - yacht racers and fast electric racers tend to seal their deck hatches with tape. Since it is low cost, it is effectively used for one session and sacrificed.
Old 06-17-2020, 01:28 AM
  #24  
Burnt Chips
Junior Member
Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jun 2020
Location: Manchester UK
Posts: 17
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

so can you think of a winch setup that will spin the brass rod , bearing in mind there's only 5mm clearance between the bottom of rod and the hull,
as I have already said , the boat was constructed ' i guess pressed out of 3mm plastic as 2 pontoons ' and the rest was added later, all the hopper section is made out of
paper thin plastic 1mm or less. If I was to pick up the boat 1 hand at the front in the middle and 1 hand rear ,the 2 pontoons would split off (they did already) ive reinforced them now.
because the weight of the pumps automatically pull the hulls down in inwards.
Only when the top section is fitted does this design have strength .
Those 2 servos are supposed to be 10kg torque but I can spin them with my fingers on the spline,(china fleabay) would I still be able to spin a 20kg servo with my fingers or am I barking up the wrong tree and all servos can be spun under finger on spline pressure, if so this idea can never work because the doors are always putting force on the servo to open.
Old 06-17-2020, 04:53 AM
  #25  
mfr02
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Blackpool Lancs, UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 1,432
Likes: 0
Received 32 Likes on 32 Posts
Default

The figures for torque always need careful reading. Usually, they are at 1 cm from the spindle center, longer arms exert a lesser weight, but do it over a greater distance. On most models where they get used, they have a long arm for the required travel, which cuts the actual pulling power a lot.
Unpowered, you just have a gearbox and motor. Since they are spur gears, they can be driven from both ends becuse the losses are small. Smaller for the motor because it is gearing down, greater for your fingers because going that way its geared up. Powered, the electronics will cause the motor to try to correct any repositioning that you apply with the force it says on the label.. Give or take a bit. Anyway, enough that trying to stop a moving servo by grasping the output shaft will probably damage your fingers. High torque servos in the same size box have the same motor and therefore power as standard servos, but have more gearing and take longer to swing through the same arc at the arm. Winches have another gearbox between the output shaft and the position sensor to give the required turns.
How many degrees do the doors need to turn through? It looks like 90 should do, which is convenient because thats what servos normally give for the usual stick throw. So, how much room is there available above the shaft? Starting to think "tiller arm from rudder" and a wire linkage to the servo arm.

Thread Tools
Search this Thread

Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service - Do Not Sell My Personal Information -

Copyright © 2022 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.