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Looking for some advice

Old 01-19-2022, 03:24 AM
  #1  
ronnie42
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Default Looking for some advice

Hi all. I have just acquired a big rc tug/supply boat. It’s an Aziz built as a static , I have started to pull it apart,quite lucky as the builder used a glue that did not melt the styrene together. I normally do rc tanks , found this being sold 2nd hand in my hobby shop. Boat electrics are different from tanks my 1st thoughts were use a tank mfu as it has twin motors for power and 3 servo outputs. This is where I am with the project .

Fittings removed

Main deck rails are string will use brass rod.

Top deck removed

All the parts , fitted the rudders for servo with new tubes and shafts then decided to fix the glue issues as parts were falling off .

Photo to check fit when rebuilding
Old 01-19-2022, 11:40 AM
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Hydro Junkie
 
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So, let me see if I have this correct:
  • You're converting a static model to R/C
  • The boat has twin shafts, or at least that's what I've figured out from your posts and what I can see in the pictures, so you're looking at using two motors
  • You're looking at using a tank control circuit to control the motors
The R/C conversion is actually pretty straight forward. I do have a couple of questions though:
  1. Are you looking at trying to steer it like a tank, using differential steering using the motors/props or using the standard rudder system?
  2. What makes a tank R/C system so much different than what is used in planes, boats, helicopters or anything else? I have a Futaba 9CAP in my house right now that I could control any of the above with, including tanks
Old 01-19-2022, 02:56 PM
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ronnie42
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,Hydro. Have a Radiomaster 16s. Its working out what may be better for fitting out the electrics in the hull. Sound, lights and a bow thruster etc. The tank board is a spare unit to power the motors when I find suitable ones.
Old 01-22-2022, 11:32 AM
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ronnie42
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Fitted motors and esc , first test for water leaks. High tide on the Clyde estuary for a sea trial as the pond is other side of Glasgow.

Test ok ,just a little water in due to the low stern when going astern.
Old 01-24-2022, 12:54 PM
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ronnie42
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The boat shipped some water, needs more ballast forward as the stern looks low in the water .Don’t think that the work deck is properly sealed as when going astern some water spilled over the deck. On other forums they say that the work deck hatch must be watertight.
Old 01-24-2022, 07:36 PM
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Hydro Junkie
 
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Tugs are notorious for having a low rear deck. Ballasting the front down might help with "shipping water" over the rear but it won't do anything for scale looks. Many that build tugs will install a raised lip or "combing" under a simulated deck hatch to keep water out of the hull. The biggest thing is to make sure all the seams around the the rear deck and any access hatches are sealed with either epoxy or a good silicone/RTV

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