ESC keeps cutting out?
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Belle Mead,
NJ
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

I;m having a very bad probelm between both of my Jeti Speed controls. I have a 350 and a 110, and in both, out of water, (Dolphin II outboard) they will hit full throttle, on either 6 or 7 cells. However as soon as I place the boat in the water, the esc wont go past 1/4 throttle before it cuts off. What gives?
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Sneek, NETHERLANDS
Posts: 2,451
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

There are several possibilities:
- your motor/drivetrain does not run smooth enough after it's been submerged, causing too much drain on the esc and the current limiter cuts in.
- the batteries can't deliver the power and the current breaks down.
- your prop is too big/has too much pitch.
- the ESC has take damage as a result of having been submerged and cannot deliver full power under load.
I run two Jeti JES 350 ESC's in my mono1 and mono 2 boats, the mono 1 has a 600 motor, 7 GP3300 and a 36 or 37,5K prop, the mono 2 has a 700 Neodym, 12 GP3300 red and a 45K prop.
The JES 350 in the mono 2 has been watercooled, both ESC stay absolutely cool.
Regards, Jan.
- your motor/drivetrain does not run smooth enough after it's been submerged, causing too much drain on the esc and the current limiter cuts in.
- the batteries can't deliver the power and the current breaks down.
- your prop is too big/has too much pitch.
- the ESC has take damage as a result of having been submerged and cannot deliver full power under load.
I run two Jeti JES 350 ESC's in my mono1 and mono 2 boats, the mono 1 has a 600 motor, 7 GP3300 and a 36 or 37,5K prop, the mono 2 has a 700 Neodym, 12 GP3300 red and a 45K prop.
The JES 350 in the mono 2 has been watercooled, both ESC stay absolutely cool.
Regards, Jan.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Belle Mead,
NJ
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

Well the ESC's worked fine a few weeks ago. Then it was running very fast and perfectly. Then I had a flip. I tryed using the 350 after it was submerged (A day or two) and it did that shutting off. So then I popped in my 110 and it does the same thing. Can it be the reciever?? I would have no idea why.
BTW, Jan how do you water cool you jeti 350?
BTW, Jan how do you water cool you jeti 350?
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: McAlester,
OK
Posts: 1,768
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

Red Rocket,
Sounds like the ESCs are not working right. The one that was submerged, well, 'nough said. As for the 'other' one, it's ratings are probably being exceded (no idea what they are, so can't say).
With the boat/motor/etc. out of the water there is no load on the drive system so it should run okay. When a load is placed on the drive system and things sort of go to pot, it usually means that the ESC or batteries can't sustain the current draw. Either the barrteries or the ESC is too 'small'. Batteries and/or ESCs don't really have much 'stretch' to them...
- 'Doc
Sounds like the ESCs are not working right. The one that was submerged, well, 'nough said. As for the 'other' one, it's ratings are probably being exceded (no idea what they are, so can't say).
With the boat/motor/etc. out of the water there is no load on the drive system so it should run okay. When a load is placed on the drive system and things sort of go to pot, it usually means that the ESC or batteries can't sustain the current draw. Either the barrteries or the ESC is too 'small'. Batteries and/or ESCs don't really have much 'stretch' to them...
- 'Doc
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Sneek, NETHERLANDS
Posts: 2,451
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

Hi Red Rocket,
I gently make some room under the shrinking tube on the stickerside and shove a piece of rectangular brass tubing between the shrinking tube and the aluminum plate over the ESC's fets.
I let a drop of CA run on the brass tubing to secure it in place and glue a piece of silicon tube on each end, making very sure, there's no leaking!
This allows me to run a 700 Neodym motor on 12 cells with an average Amp draw of 25 Ah without any trouble.
Regards, Jan.
I gently make some room under the shrinking tube on the stickerside and shove a piece of rectangular brass tubing between the shrinking tube and the aluminum plate over the ESC's fets.
I let a drop of CA run on the brass tubing to secure it in place and glue a piece of silicon tube on each end, making very sure, there's no leaking!
This allows me to run a 700 Neodym motor on 12 cells with an average Amp draw of 25 Ah without any trouble.
Regards, Jan.
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Belle Mead,
NJ
Posts: 95
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts

Ok, thanks guys, I found out my 110 is only rated for 400 motors, so I scratched that. Im now using an LRP Runner plus which seems to work fine.