Sarges_heroes2003

My Feedback: (6)

hey all,
Ive been looking around for a esc for a 1/144 scale Battle ship. I can't seem to find any Marine ESC's in the tower catalog or on the internet. does any one know of a place that sells affordable, water cooled, Marine ESC?
Thanks,
Sarges_heroes2003

mfr02

Action, Mtroniks, Proboat and plenty of others. Is there a reason for water cooling?

LtDoc

mfr02,
The only reason for water cooling anything is that it gets too hot, right? So, there can be several reasons for that. Basically though, the thingy just isn't capable of dissipating the heat build up in 'normal' operating conditions, or it's too small, sort of. The typical answer to that 'too small' thingy is to get a bigger one. But what if a bigger one won't fit (available space, or wallet space)? Cooling does work to some extent, but it isn't a cure-all.
- 'Doc

(as if you didn't already know that, right? )

mfr02

All true Doc, but it is a 1/144 scale battleship, so unless its a very small battleship, theres plenty of room. I prefer, wherever possible, to avoid having water on the inside, even if it is inside a tube. Tubes can become disconnected, and a disconnected tube is also known as a leak. An ESC man enough for the job is the best bet, as it will run cool.

cyclops2

A boat ESC NEEDS built in "thermal protection" because of no air blasts to cool it. It should also be of the "reduced output" type if possible. Sealing the exposed ends of the ESC is required. You can mount it in a vertical plywood or plastic cylinder with the top & bottom open for protection and air cooling.

I do not like water tubing inside of a boat having water & BB's smashing into it. Put the ESC in a cage that just stops the BB's, not the air.

What is the voltage & amps. at your motor when running @ W O T ?

Rich

Sarges_heroes2003

My Feedback: (6)

This is a "combat Model" not just a scale stand off model. It will need its own sealed box for "Ballistic Protection" that will mean no circulating air to cool it. For the water cooling system I would put in a pick up tube some where in the bottom of the boat(near the esc) and run it to a sealed box which the heat sink would sit in. then there would be a exit tube that ran back to the curvy part where the props are mounted and exit there. maybe the flow from the props will pull the water out if nothing else the "exit tube" will be angled up some what (heat rises) and the motion of the ship moveing forward just might make it all work.

Remember these boats get nocked around quite a bit, even rammed by bigger boats (usually by the bigger ones, they can't stop like the little ones).

Thanks,
Sarges_heroes
P.S. I hope that explains a little about where this is coming from.

cyclops2

It will work.

Rich

RiverRaider

Hello,

I use MCD speed controls (model control device) inside an Otterbox in my 1/72 scale battleship without water cooling
for several years with no problems. I also have the same model of speed control and OtterBoxes in a 1/144 Cruiser and
in my 1/72 scale Tashkent which is similar in size to the 1/144 BB's. They are worth the money and have provisions
for water cooling if that is still desired.

RiverRaider

I forgot to mention that my 1/144 and 1/72 ships are also combat ships

Umi_Ryuzuki

I have never had a problem with water cooling... plenty of water in the boat.

And the boat is always running within the hour... guns take time to disassemble and dry out.