Failsafe question
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Failsafe question
Does anyone have any experience with the venum smart temp failsafe. It seems to be causing alot of twitching in my servos. Am I doing something wrong?
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RE: Failsafe question
ORIGINAL: gralls4771
Does anyone have any experience with the venum smart temp failsafe. It seems to be causing alot of twitching in my servos. Am I doing something wrong?
Does anyone have any experience with the venum smart temp failsafe. It seems to be causing alot of twitching in my servos. Am I doing something wrong?
4.8 or 6Volts?
Dan.
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RE: Failsafe question
gralls4771,
To start with, I have no experience with that failsafe. Here are some 'general' things though.
The biggy is the voltage and current requirements of the failsafe. How you supply those are related to the batteries that you use. The 'type' of battery, dry-cells, gellcells, nicads, nimhs, etc, makes no particular difference if they can supply the required power.
How you get that power to where it's needed is also important. Meaning that the conductors should be of a size to handle the voltage and current. Slightly larger than required is better than not big enough, just like in any electrical wiring. Just don't carry that 'bigger is better' to ridiculous lengths, you know?
'Glitching'. Oh boy does that open up a can of worms. there are quite a number of possible reasons why 'glitching' happens. They range from RF interference, to the color of wire used (well, almost). 'Glitching' is the result of a recognizable, legitimate, signal NOT getting to the device being controlled. Anything electrical can interfere with that if it produces a 'signal' of some sort that can 'get into' the device's circuit (see what I mean about worms?). Those interfering signals can be from electrical/magnetic fields, relatively strong radio signals (from your, or someone else's system), from direct connection or radiated thingys (huge can of worms!).
The 'cure' is a process of elimination. Almost any of the 'typical' RF eliminators can be tried, ferrite 'beads', coils, capacitors (careful there), twisting the device leads, and so on. Distance from other electrical circuits is nice. So is shielding. (It gets to the point where a dancing hula girl is a -possible- cure! Please use discretion there, and I did NOT tell you to try that!)
Remember this is a 'generalized' thingy, stuff may of may not work for you, no guaranties! How would I know anyway...
- 'Doc
To start with, I have no experience with that failsafe. Here are some 'general' things though.
The biggy is the voltage and current requirements of the failsafe. How you supply those are related to the batteries that you use. The 'type' of battery, dry-cells, gellcells, nicads, nimhs, etc, makes no particular difference if they can supply the required power.
How you get that power to where it's needed is also important. Meaning that the conductors should be of a size to handle the voltage and current. Slightly larger than required is better than not big enough, just like in any electrical wiring. Just don't carry that 'bigger is better' to ridiculous lengths, you know?
'Glitching'. Oh boy does that open up a can of worms. there are quite a number of possible reasons why 'glitching' happens. They range from RF interference, to the color of wire used (well, almost). 'Glitching' is the result of a recognizable, legitimate, signal NOT getting to the device being controlled. Anything electrical can interfere with that if it produces a 'signal' of some sort that can 'get into' the device's circuit (see what I mean about worms?). Those interfering signals can be from electrical/magnetic fields, relatively strong radio signals (from your, or someone else's system), from direct connection or radiated thingys (huge can of worms!).
The 'cure' is a process of elimination. Almost any of the 'typical' RF eliminators can be tried, ferrite 'beads', coils, capacitors (careful there), twisting the device leads, and so on. Distance from other electrical circuits is nice. So is shielding. (It gets to the point where a dancing hula girl is a -possible- cure! Please use discretion there, and I did NOT tell you to try that!)
Remember this is a 'generalized' thingy, stuff may of may not work for you, no guaranties! How would I know anyway...
- 'Doc
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RE: Failsafe question
Well, Im using 6V hump nimh with a good full charge. I think though I MIGHT have solved it. I wont be sure until I through the boat in the water and get it a little distance away. I had a carbon fiber look sticker covering the radio box lid just for looks, well this sticker was made of foil. I pealed it off and so far, problem solved. We shall see.
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RE: Failsafe question
Both me and my buddy have been running gas boats and they both seem to glitch a little bit.
I had an ofna fail safe on mine and it was terrible.
Took that off and it was better.
I am going to try coiling the wire's and see what happens once I get the boat back together.
Also Spectrum radio's are not that great either in the water.
Calm water messes with them.
I had an ofna fail safe on mine and it was terrible.
Took that off and it was better.
I am going to try coiling the wire's and see what happens once I get the boat back together.
Also Spectrum radio's are not that great either in the water.
Calm water messes with them.
#7
My Feedback: (1)
RE: Failsafe question
Failsafes are great, I had one on my rudder in my V24 and was fine until the 4 - AA battries got wet. Having said that I never had a problem with the venom failsafe which came from one of my trucks whether I was using 4 -AA or 5 cell rechargeables.
-Cause: 4 - AA wet battries from getting wet in the radio box
-Solution: 5 cell rechargeable batteries and new radio box
I now have a Hitec Synthyzised receiver bound with my JR XS3PRO and it gave me the ability to idle the engine and turn the rudder either way depending on choice of steering at the same time when I lose radio contact with the boat.
Before that, I was planning on having two failsafes. Not anymore, thanks to Hitec`s new SYNTH DX!
-Cause: 4 - AA wet battries from getting wet in the radio box
-Solution: 5 cell rechargeable batteries and new radio box
I now have a Hitec Synthyzised receiver bound with my JR XS3PRO and it gave me the ability to idle the engine and turn the rudder either way depending on choice of steering at the same time when I lose radio contact with the boat.
Before that, I was planning on having two failsafes. Not anymore, thanks to Hitec`s new SYNTH DX!
#8
RE: Failsafe question
The general concencus on the car forums is that this failsafe is not that great. If you can try another failsafe to see if it is the venom one causing problems.
#10
My Feedback: (1)
RE: Failsafe question
Sorry to hear about people having problems with the Venom failsafes. I have five of them that I bought almost 5 years ago when they came out, one for each of my land models (X-Factor, X-Terminator, Mammoth, LST, and Serpent 960). The one I had in the V24 that glitch because of a wet 4 - AA cell power supply has been put back into the Mammoth and it has not glitched even when it is powered by a 4 AA's.